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Everything posted by Ricey
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Ready for use lacquer (rattle can) should dry like buggery. What type of primer did you use? Really you need to use plastic primer first. Also using acrylic primers with some paints will cause reactions Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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The significant drawback to dyeing them is that the thread colour on the topstitching will also end up red. And it ain't dye! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Hey bud, being from West Yorkshire myself I'm shocked daily at how much things cost down south lol. I can't help you I'm afraid, I would Google and call a few places I'm up north and I cost a fortune! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Yes it is You'll probably need to flog your house to finance it
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Be cheaper to courier the seats to him than it will to go elsewhere I'd hazard a guess. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Wouldn't wazzo mopedmark do them? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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For me I'd be having a refurb done and then a ceramic coating put on. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Is that outer rim deffo not lacquered? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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And he got engaged! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Yup Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk It's a pass and advise, they were supposed to change the rules on this some time ago but didn't. I'll bloody thrash the place I use for mots when I see them! They told me any major warning light (abs, airbag, eml etc) being inoperative was a fail Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Yup Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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I keep saying People keep ignoring. More harm than good Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Swirl marks everywhere, Do I go pro or use poorboys black hole?
Ricey replied to Mikevv's topic in Paint & Protection
If Tim was a small shrunken Jedi living in a swamp I'd call him Yoda. Well worth making the effort to travel to him. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk -
Swirl marks everywhere, Do I go pro or use poorboys black hole?
Ricey replied to Mikevv's topic in Paint & Protection
If your car is as bad as you say and you achieve 90% with a DA and some instructional vids I will literally give you a job should you ever need one......I'm not even joking. You should definitely have a go though. It's very satisfying to do and with a DA is extremely difficult to do any damage (albeit not impossible) Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk mine isn't quite as bad as he OP...i did have some nasty tick marks on the boot lid (not put in by me i hasten to add) which i managed to remove over the weekend. i do agree, it is rather satisfying using the DA,especially when the results appear so good. Ricey....don't think i would want to do it for a living!! Oh yeah you're not the op are you! I used to love doing it at weekends. To be honest I love doing it now but it can be very frustrating at times. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk -
Swirl marks everywhere, Do I go pro or use poorboys black hole?
Ricey replied to Mikevv's topic in Paint & Protection
If your car is as bad as you say and you achieve 90% with a DA and some instructional vids I will literally give you a job should you ever need one......I'm not even joking. You should definitely have a go though. It's very satisfying to do and with a DA is extremely difficult to do any damage (albeit not impossible) Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk -
Just checked their company financial out.....that's a major set up. Nearly a million in assets. That's some equipment there! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Not at all mate. These cars are as much a pita than any other despite what people tell you. Nowts cheap and stuff goes wrong......Fairly regularly. It's enough to make you tear your hair out if you hit a raft of problems on what's supposed to be a bulletproof 'nice car'. Tinworm=rust. Estimate included it but it's a beggar to get rid of permenant. It needs grinding out and treating but even then it might not cure it forever. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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In fairness bud that rust isn't 10 weeks old and the arch looks like it's had a clack so you can't really blame the car. The larger patch of rust must of been there when you bought it? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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Id forgot diy on that mate. You've got serious tinworm and potentially a riggy paint job. You need a decent bodyshop to look at it. Be expecting upwards of £250 for the rusted quarter and £40-70 for the petrol cap. Expect that the petrol cap won't match the rest of the quarter panel as well. If you want it to match expect around £150-£250 to blow into the quarter. Expect that the blow in on the rust near the bumper won't match the bumper. If you want it to match expect anything from £50 to £150 min to blow it in. Touch up petrol cap yourself for £12 using you local trade ain't supplier (forget chipex et al.....go local). Unless the body shop are absolutely topnotch expect the tinworm to come back at some point in around 12 months to 3 years. Don't use chipsaway just because they'll do it for £150.....It'll be utter shash. Angel of Doom......out Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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I really need to give this stuff a try sometime. With working inside it theoretically should be easier to use. How many cars do you get from a can? Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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****......forgot. I'll have a look monday! Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
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I think Ive got a Megiuars G220d in the unit. I'll have a look tomorrow.
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Obvs I can't speak for your experiences of it and I'm sure as hell not going to tell you your wrong because your experience says you're right but I'll point out the absolute facts that we can all agree on; - If there is the tiniest bit of dirt on the car the friction on that dirt will act like sandpaper. Fresh paint is flatted with 1500/2000 grit and I'll tell you now it practically feels like newspaper. Dirt or grit is significantly more corse. - Wind will get under even a fitted cover. Wind = movement = friction = chafing even on a totally clean car. Woe betide a clip breaking free. - Paints can even be marred by wiping them with a microfiber if they're soft enough (take a look at my Mini thread and Eds Lexus thread) never mind fleece, felt or polyester. So essentially yes a tailor fitted car cover in a wind free, sheltered area, on a totally decontaminated car (each time it's put on) would be OK. As a professional detailer it's my opinion you will cause far, far less damage to your car by leaving open to the elements with a decent sealant than you will by covering it up. OP £100 to my knowledge won't get you even close to a decent quality cover.
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Paint 'usually' doesn't just flake off. As Col said it sounds like a paint job that hasn't been keyed or primed properly. Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk