Ricey

We're only in sandycroft if you ever want an opinion on it bud Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Envy iron awe all the way. CarChem fallout remover is also good Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

No matter what any manufacturer says all polishes will contain some fillers. That's why it's important to IPA wipedown after to see the true state of correction. Again it's tough from an amateur perspective even from a pad perspective. I added mine up the other day......over 300 quid! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I'd agree with Ilogikal - they're good enough......certainly wouldn't sling them. If you're using ultimate compound or something then I'd be less inclined to say your doing much other than filling. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I can probably tell you without seeing it if it's been wet sanded probably less than 70 microns on zed. I'd tread extremely carefully. I tried to wetsand keying out of a zed once. 5 swipes of 1500 grit and I was through Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Meguairs isn't a pro product but it's alright for an amateur (i don't mean that in a condescending way). If you're getting serious though then you might as well get the right stuff Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

10 year protection Applied in 2 hours (if at all) That'll be £1000 please sir Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

The thing is my driveway isn't suitable for rinsing down cars with water. I've taken other cars to those cheap tesco wave car wash before and they were perfectly fine. But I should've listened, I didn't really expect the paint to be so thin and soft on the Zed. As a detailer you'll need to take what I'm saying in the context of your situation but seriously I'd do a regular cleaning with a 'waterless wash' system before I'd use the hand car wash butchers. That is if you can't stretch to something better like a decent valeter Waterless washes are bad but personally because of the surfactants they use I'd say less harmful that a 6 billion bar jet wash and a ruck load of caustic chemicals Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I need a lie down Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

It's a tough one. Wax will protect your car and therefore continually topping up is good. That said touching your car in anyway unless totally decontaminated (i see cars recontaminated a month after a decontaminate them) will mean you risk introducing swirls. Secondly if for example you use a cracking wax with good durability and excellent contact angles in its hydrophobicity then layering it with a cheaper wax will mean the water behaves differently. So if beads are your thing then cheap product on top of good product could produce poor results for the sake of protecting your expensive product. Also some cheap products could actually damage or remove the expensive product (Ilogikal knows a bit more about that than me). Anything abrasive will remove wax in some way or another (SRP is mildly abrasive). Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Jesus Christ! You must have more fillers on your paintwork thanJackie Stallones boat race! For me having seen these in action I'd say probably 2-3 months at best. SRP is fairly useless and chocked with fillers Poorboys is decent as a filler glaze AG extra gloss I would guess is also a filler packed glossing agent Collinite seems to be well liked. Personally I'd cut out steps 1 and 3. They ain't doing but the square root of jack. Certainly nothing that the superior products in steps 2 and 4 are doing better. Basically when your Collinite starts to give up the ghost in a couple of months top up with wax. 2 coats is also a bit overkill IMHO. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Honestly I'd have to say based on the reflections in your shots that's an iffy paint job as well. You shouldn't have a hazy reflection in factory paint. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I've never owned one😀 Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I use ScratchShields which are a bit cheaper. I've got a tonne of them that I bought with the intent to sell but bombed it off as a non viable financial proposition! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

As far as rattle cans go paints4u are about the best Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

If you decide you do want a Maserati at any point drop me a pm and I'll sort you out with a proper top notch indie specialist. Literally every car he sells is well sorted.....if there's a problem it's sorted and pretty much all come with a very comprehensive warranty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Carbon collective do a cheaper version. Total crap like but it's cheaper! Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Well as I'm not a professional detailer or a night time road worker or an emergency responder I don't actually have any work lamps to do that with. Still I'm happy enough with it although I know it could always be better. I josh. If chappie is asking about correction then I reckon hand is a total waste of time. But you're right you can get decent shine by using the right products and elbow grease. Guess it all comes down to what does the OP want to achieve. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

You can still get pretty decent results with just good old fashioned muscle power. My effort today on my Audi S3's bonnet using the Meguiars 3 stage crystal system. This stuff fyi: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Meguiars-3-Step-Crystal-System-Cleaner-Polish-and-Wax-all-473ml-Brand-New-/191870800466?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 Light it up ......I can make a dirty car look shiny when the Halogens are out of the equation. No lighty.....no likey Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Literally paperweight mate. Useless Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Rare is it that I disagree with ilogikal but I'd personally say you can never compare cutting with a machine vs hand application. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

^ what he said. You could even double up on a non acidic alloy wheel cleaner and fallout remover. Ceramic coat would be the ultimate. A good sealant is next best. Rim wax is a little old hat these days but deffo does a job. Always best to pay a bit more for your products if you can afford it. The crud in Asda and the like ain't the best. Wonder wheels is a prime example of crap. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

And this is ignition cut endgame Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

This is how you get proper flames

It's called ignition delay/ignition cut. Spark fires again as the exhaust valve opens. The usual 'VXR' cretins run it.......usually shortly before they bring their shattered engine to us for a rebuild Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk