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Does anyone have any standard 370 original wheel nuts? thanks martin
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I’ve have 4 z’d now all of which have been superb cars. I just need something a little smaller. I’ll be quite as to see it go. It’s a great car with no issues except the wheels could do with a touch up but the car is priced to sell. That said I’m in no real rush. thanks martin.
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A real bargain for someone.
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For sale is my much looked after 370 convertible. Runs and drives perfectly. Milage is 87k but will go up as it’s used on the weekends. it has full services history upto 80k since then all its servicing has been done by myself. It’s had all oils and filters changed recently ( prior to our French road trip) including gearbox. New front brake pads supplied by Tarmac Sports. A TMS stainless cat back exhaust also fitted by Tarmac Sports. 4 brand new tyres and new spark plugs. It burns zero oil and runs perfectly. The convertible top works as it should no rips, tears or mould. Recent Mot complete. The car is garaged and never gets taken out in the rain. It has had a complete front end respray whilst on holiday last year £1800. I still have the original Nismo exhaust too. price £11,000 ONO. Thanks for looking Martin
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I would if I knew how to. Clip is on my iPhone. Any ideas?
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K&N drop in filters x2 370z or 350HR
rothers2901 replied to TheOracle71's topic in 370z Parts For Sale
I’ll take these if you still have them. I don’t use PayPal. bank transfer ok? PM me with details thanks Martin. -
370Z paddleshift auto - problem 4th to 5th gear
rothers2901 replied to James Junior's topic in 370z General
The oil was purchased from Torqen @ 10.55 a bottle x 6 = £63.30 free delivery and came the next day. The transfer pump was from eBay £8 The infra red thermometer was of Amazon £20 oil pan £3 from Toolstaton. Less than £100 all in. Defiantly worth doing it yourself if you can, it’s not difficult. Martin. -
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370Z paddleshift auto - problem 4th to 5th gear
rothers2901 replied to James Junior's topic in 370z General
Do it yourself. If just done mine. It makes the world of difference. I’ve just posted I guide if you’re interested. -
Having had the car for nearly a year and changed out most of the usual maintenance serviceable parts, brakes, engine oil and filter, plugs etc, it was time to change the transmission oil. It’s taken this long to get round to it simply due to the weather and having to do it on axel stands. Now I know there’s some that say the transmission is a sealed unit and that it is maintenance free and the oil should last the lifetime of the vehicle, but my thoughts are that nothing lasts for ever and the working properties of oils change with use and time therefore it should be changes periodically. My Z is a 2011 with 80k on the clock and the odds are that the oil is the same oil as when it first left the factory. This is my first automatic so don’t have any past reference to how they operate or behave. The car drove fine in both Drive and in manual mode if not slightly clunky and hesitant when in manual and being driven spiritually shall we say. Now let me say to those who say you don’t need to change the oil in you transmission, no you don’t but if you do it make the world of difference. The car now drive seamlessly in all gears, smooth transition between gears in manual mode and more responsive in drive mode. It’s well worth the money changing he oil even every couple of years. This is a guide to changing the transmission oil on a 2011 370z with an automatic transmission. It there are many related videos on YouTube. If you’re going to tackle this yourself you will need the following items. Oil drain pan some sort of transfer pump ( about £8 on eBay) 6 litres of Matic-S Automatic Transmission Fluid. You may only need 5 but I bought extra for topping up, (your choice) 19mm socket and wrench 5mm Allen key either to fit a wrench or just an Allen key will do it shouldn’t be too tight. Small spirit level. And a infrared thermometer (this is needed to check the working temperature before draining any excess oil. Firstly if you don’t have access to a ramp or garage pit jack up the car both front and back keeping it level. I allowed mine to be slightly lower at the rear to aid more drainage because I wasn’t removing the oil pan. Once on the stands, turn the car on and allow the transmission oil to warm up. I let it get to 84.9f but any warm temp will do it just allows the oil to drain more easily. There are two plug nuts that require unfastening a 19mm nut which is to the rear of the oil pan. This is the drain plug and a 5mm Allen key stud to the front. This is both the location where you refill the transmission and allow any excess oil to be drained following the filling process. Loosen the 5mm Allen stud but don’t remove it. Now place a oil pan or bucket under the 19mm nut, remove it and allow the oil to be drained out there should be approximately 4.5 / 5 litres that comes out. Whilst the oil is draining out remove the 5mm plug in preparation for filling. Once all of the oil has been drained replace the19mm plug and tighten but not too tight. Now pump at least 5 litres of oil back into the transmission. Once you have done this leave the pipe connected to the filling hole and start the car engine for a minute or two to allow the oil to be transferred around the transmission. at this point you need to sit in the car place your foot on the brake pedal and go through the transmission positions starting in Park holding it in that position for 30 seconds, the reverse leave for 30 seconds, neutral 30 seconds and then drive. Then do this in reverse order. (I did this twice) Now leave the car running and allow the transmission to get to it’s working temperature which is between 90f and 110f Once at operating temperature and whilst the engine is still running remove the filling tune and allow any excess oil to drain out back into the oil pan. If nothing comes out you haven’t got enough oil in the transmission so put more in. Then allow any excess to drain out. There should be just a trickle of oil coming out. Replace the 5mm plug and that’s it. The oil change took me a couple of hours and I would say anyone who can change their own engine oil and has the tools can easily do this. It’s well worth doing.. Thanks for reading Martin.
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I’m a Meguiars man personally. But there are lots of good products out there. Meguiars just seems to have a longer working time life. the paintwork had some slight swirls which I’m still working on but the the flake now show through. Thanks Martin