neil354

Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I might try sanding one of the other areas I've painted, trying to keep it just to the painted area and not using the circular motions to see if that works. Not that it matters much now anyway, but would be nice to know if thats what the problem was.

Yes it came with a small block which I used. I had done a single chip a few months before which looks perfect. I think this made me over confident as I went a bit mad with it this time!

I think I probably did use a circular motion when rubbing back.

Would I make it worse if I went over it again with the wet and dry in a more of an up and down motion?

I'm based in Worcester so would be a bit of a trek to Suffolk, I might take it round to a few local bodyshops to see what they have to say. I have also requested a quote from Chipsaway.

I used 2000 grade sand paper that came with the paint, I followed the instructions that came with it. I forgot to mention that I also used the G3 liquid that came with it too.

I had a go at removing a few stone chips from my bonnet and I seem to have made it look a whole lot worse than it did before.

I first cleaned the car, then I filled the chips using paint from Paints4u applied with a cocktail stick. I then let it dry for 1 week before I used a fine grade wet and dry (the one that came with the paint) to flatten the paint.

I am now left with a strange hologram type rings around the chip which I can't seem to get rid of. Its hard to photograph this and it looks a lot worse than the photo makes out. I have about 10 of these over one third of the bonnet. I haven't bothered to sand off the other two thirds yet.

I have tried using Megs Ultimate Compound applied via a DA polisher and also Blackhole using the DA and neither have made any difference.

Have I ruined my paint and need a respray, or is there anything else that I can try that might get rid of it?

Thanks.

Something like this:

 

http://www.keene.co.uk/electronic/unbra ... LD26X.html

 

Or this:

 

http://www.keene.co.uk/electronic/unbra ... -cable-(5m)/KLD41.html

 

In both cases you would need to chop the male phonos off and solder that end to the Bose.

Thanks for those. Is it possible to do this without removing the gear knob because I just can't get it off.

I'm going to give this a go over the bank holiday weekend, I'm struggling to get the gear knob off though so I might not get very far!

Would someone mind posting a link to a phono cable that I could use? Just want to make sure I get the right thing!

So how long would you say that you need to work the polish before it breaks down enough to do the job?

I had a go with my new DAS-6 at the weekend (first time I have ever tried machine polishing), I used Megs Ultimate Compound (because I already had it) with firstly a black Chemical Guys Hex-Logic pad and then an orange one. Neither seemed to make the slightest of difference to the paintwork, plus it killed my back bending over the bonnet.

I only did a third of the bonnet before I gave up, partly due to my back and partly due to the fact that it wasn't actually working. I ended up doing it all by hand and although I didn't achieve the correction I wanted, the car looks great!

I might give it another go with some of the equipment mentioned above, or I may sell it, I havn't quite decided yet.

I had that exact same clutch problem on mine after owning the car for only a few weeks. I took it to Nissan (big mistake!) and they charged me £2,060 for a new clutch and flywheel. Then after another month it started to do it again! I took it back and they said there was air in the fluid, so they bled it and now it all seems fine.

Makes me wonder if they could have just bled it in the first place and saved me £2000!

Does anyone know who does manufacture the flywheels for Nissan?

 

LUK manufacture the stock dual mass flys for Nissan.

 

At circa 30K you were probably due for a fly and clutch swopout.

 

Pity you never posted up before you went to Nissan as prices on here are very reasonable.

 

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=27436

 

viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31543

 

Alex.

I know, I wish I had now, could have saved myself a lot of money! At least I will know for next time (I'm being a bit pessimistic here!)

neil - how old is the car - how many miles and where did it come from?

It is an 06 plate, done 31,000 miles and I bought it from a garage in Birmingham called Automotive Dreams

I thought that might be the case, I still might try anyway, they can only say no. Hopefully I havn't bought "one of those cars". My drivers side window motor has packed in as well in the two months I've had it, although the warrenty did actually pay for this, or they will do so they say, or that will be another £370!

I had to have my flywheel replaced by Nissan last week due to excessive radial movement at a total cost of £2,084 (this included a new clutch also). I've only had the car for two months and got a three month warrenty with it. (Not a Nissan warrenty, it's from a company called Warrenty Wise).

Anyway they are refusing to pay for the work because they believe the problem with the flywheel was general wear and tear.

I am planning to appeal this decision and just wandered if anyone thinks that I might have a case. I was going to try to find out who manufactures the flywheels and send them an email to see what they say. If they say its not wear and tear then surely the warrenty people will have to pay. Does anyone know who does manufacture the flywheels for Nissan?

Is this actually a Bosch attachment? I bought it off someone on another forum and it does not seem to fit my Bosch pressure washer, all the water spurts out at the connection. The brass one is the new lance and the black plastic is one of my existing attachements which work fine. There is a small difference in the two but both are supposed to be Bosch. (or at least according to the bloke I bought it off)

Another quick question re the snow foam which isnt worthy of a new thread. Should it be applied to a wet or dry car?

can this be done under warranty?

I tried to get this work done under my warrenty last week, but it wasn't covered as the part had not "failed". They said they do not replace parts when they are only worn. Im just going to put up with mine. There is no way I'm attempting to do it myself as I know i will get it horribly wrong no matter how simple it might be!

My drivers window has developed a rattle of late which is really annoying. Also the other day I had the window down, it started to rain so I went to do it up and nothing happened. In the end I pulled over and opened and closed the door and that fixed it and it hasn't happened since. I was wandering if the rattle and the malfunction were linked. Do you think a reset might fix the problems?

06 plate with 31,000 miles

I've got the clicking noise coming from the back as well. I take it that it is ok to drive like this? Luckily my car is still under the 3 month warrenty I got when I bought it. Hopefully this will be covered.

PM sent

As the title says really. Would be interested to hear from anyone who wanted to get rid of one. I would rather stick to one of these models as there are some great guides on here about installing them.

Sorry to bring back an old thread but I was looking at fitting one of these units and just wandered where the new grounding wire gets fixed to the chassis. Is there an existing wire there which this new one will replace, or does it require a new fitting?

Also how long does the grounding wire need to be?

Thanks.

Now for my question, it was regarding the order in which I wash it, may sound stupid but want to get it right. I believe it goes a little something like this:

 

Rinse.

Wash with Shampoo.

Rinse.

Clay with Last Touch.

Rinse?

Lime Prime

Wax

Detailer

 

Not to sure whether I rinse or even maybe wash again after clay but I believe the rest is right.

 

Can I clay everything, windows and wheels included?

 

Is a grit guard completely necessary? I forgot to buy a couple, obviously will be doing the two bucket method.

 

Cheers.

I gave mine a good clean at the weekend and I didn't bother to rinse/snowfoam again after claying for the simple reason that I couldn't be bothered, but it turned out ok.

I thought that the wax was supposed to stop the dust and water marks from the rain marking the paintwork? It rained last night just 3 days after I waxed with Supernatural and its covered in both dust and rainwater marks. I'm a bit annoyed after spending 6 hours on it at the weekend!

Thanks for the quick responses!

Looks like I might have to spend another £50-£60 on a decent lance then!