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RisingPower

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Posts posted by RisingPower

  1. I may add I'm not looking for massive stetch just enough to make it look a bit more aggressive without hitting the arches

     

    Neil, going the Euro look (stretched) will have the opposite effect and will pull the tyre away from the arch mate, creating a gap. ;)

     

    The Euro look is basically only for show cars and is potentially a real hazzard for road driiving also there are legal implications involved regarding this, of which I am not to sure.

     

    You have now got me totally confused mate, one minute you are building a track warrior and the next you are building a show car.

     

    Do you have a second car that you are not telling us about? :lol::lol::lol:

     

    +1 I am a confused :lol: But, aggressive, do the lmgt4s really stick out enough to be considered aggressive? Thought the idea was you'd have lip/rim showing but no rubber?

     

    I.e. 10-12" widths with low offsets and maybe 245 tyres? That or massive spacers?

     

    http://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tire ... lcome.html

  2. Gearbox- i wasn't a massive fan of it- it was shortish shift, but very notchy and a bit fiddly. When slowing down it was tricky to change down quickly & smoothly. Perhaps i just needed some time in the car to get used to it, but its not as nice as say an M3 where you can just grab a gear and go. 7/10

     

     

    An M3 which you can just grab a gear and go? Wish my previous M3 was like that.

     

    The gear changes in the M3 were downright lousy, especially when cold. Stupid clutch delay valve made things 10x worse.

     

    One other question, do you downblip? The clutch delay valve in the M3 would help make it seem smoother when downshifting, merely because the clutch isn't engaging. Makes it rock like a bucking horse when you're driving slow round town though.

  3. Nice one, thanks guys. Guess ill have to get a sub box made up?

     

    Not a lot is definitely a single din for me then, I just can't justify spending almost 1k for a full setup. Just a shame the stock system is so poor. Like, terrible

     

    I think what some people have done is just pad in the area where the rear sub goes in the gt model and use the whole enclosure without fabbing a box?

     

    I don't see why you'd get the rear speakers done personally, just a 2 channel amp and the 2 front speakers and leave it without a sub until you can do that. But then again, imho decent speakers don't need a sub separate.

     

    I'm tempted by the hertz mlk165's but they're too deep for the doors I think :bang:

  4. No sorry I have a non gt, so no bose system at all, but would hope that its possible to put an after market sub in the void behind the drivers seat.

     

    Ah, my bad. When you say the void behind the drivers seat, what about where the current sub lives and making up an enclosure?

  5. Hey there guys, sorry to plonk us another thread asking for advice but I've been lookingand looking but can't find what I'm after or unsure but you guys are the wizards!

     

    Basically I am looking to upgrade the ice, a spentjw have non se stereo, with no sub. Ho not worried about losing steering wheel controls etc but I think but I'm looking to do It as cheap as possible. Don't mind second hand as long as it works, but can anyone recommend me;

     

    Speakers that fit ho front and back with no modification

    Sub that I can fit in the spot behind the drivers seat?

    Head unit

     

    I should say, I'm not after massive so of or competition grade quality, just a cheap good midrange improvement to whats there now, with a bit of punch.

     

    Thanks guys

     

    I think you'll find it very difficult keeping the oem bose amp as it has 2 ohm speakers. I'm not sure what speakers have that impedance?

     

    Best upgrade excluding changing the amp out/speakers/custom sub build, is just changing the head unit as mentioned.

  6. Never even heard of Hawk :shrug:

    +1 on the ferrodos

     

    I think they're ok for cheap, low dusting pads, but iirc they're not exactly known for performance. Think they're made by the same company that makes mintex?

     

    Either way, I wouldn't want them on mine just for the sake of a tiny bit less brake dust. Oh and rear disc isn't going to matter so much as the front, so I'd have thought the dba 3000 would be fine? That or the dixcel pd/sd rears?

  7. Very interesting point, noted the rs-ds don't really come in that aggressive fitments. Best seems to be 9"@15 et and 10.5"@20 et, if you can run 1.5 inch stagger? If not, 10"@25 et.

     

    But I'd still say 20" for the advan rs-ds as that lip takes up about an inch and makes them look imho the same size as the rs's in 19".

  8. 19.5" would be the answer! :lol::lol::lol:

     

    Haha you're not wrong!

     

    RS-D :cloud9:

     

    Please tell me your going for the matte black version

     

    Yes I would be going for the matte black ones, although I have to say the all chrome ones look amazing, but I'd always feel like the car was in the wrong part of the world, I think you only get to buy those if you live in California!

     

    I'm actually more confused than ever after seeing all these pictures! I think it really does depend on the wheels. My only other choice, that seems somewhat played out (mainly in the US) was the TE37's. TE37's in 19" look amazing whereas in 20" they lose their shape.

     

    TE37's are overdone imho, though what about the new TE37 Super Lap?

     

    Advan RS-D's would be far more unusual :thumbs:

  9. EBC discs :thumbdown: poo.

     

    Yellow stuffs :thumbs: Excellent

     

    I have tried many Brake combos including the DBAs & Ds2500s I found the Ds2500s a good pad until you get on track, they are quite a hard compound so wear the discs quickly & do not disperse heat very well. But put some YellowStuffs on with the DBAs & you will be fine :drive1

     

    You really rate the yellow stuff pads? I didn't get on with them tbh at all, but they do say they're not suitable for drilled discs.

  10. It's the hassle of maintaining a full wrap. If it get scratched or torn it looks terrible and it easier for me to get the car painted than rewrapped. With the amount of stonechips on track the vinyl would be a mess. I've seen my mates White golf and the about of hassle he has had trying to keep it in good condition without even being on the track is unbelievable

     

    One thing though, if you want the wrap, you have to get the ap bbk shown with the slotted discs to match :p;) Just won't look right otherwise :lol:

  11. Thanks alot mate that looks awesome.

     

    I like both but don't fancy wrapping the full car in White as it's alot of work to look after aswell

     

    Richard I may be pm'in you for a little help when trying to finalise the designs as I've heard that ur the boss at graphic design.

     

    I just wanna say thanks to everyone who has posted up ideas.

     

    Keep them coming guys!

     

    Red timestripe for me, but not where it goes through the road like in my chops :lol::thumbs:

  12. 20" on the RS-D's, but imho they look a bit small on 19"s, whereas the RS's look quite big in 19"?

     

    However, quite a few other 20"s look far too large for the Z imo. All depends on the wheel.

     

    But RS-D's, as ian said :cloud9: However, I prefer the machined + black version :thumbs:

     

    RSD370Z.8853.jpg

     

    Having said that i'm now not so sure...

     

    RS-D_Z34.10836.jpg

  13. 452s are budget tyres on the Zed, they're just not ultra-pikey tyres i.e. Nankangs. Couple of hundred quid extra for a decent set of rubber is an absolute no-brainer as far as I can see, but each to their own and whatever makes you happy. :shrug:

     

    They're not "budget" budget tyres, i.e no brand crap. I'll probably try bridgestone re050's next though. Bit more than a couple of hundred extra though. TBH I just wanted to try the falken fk452's going by people's ratings of them.

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