evilscorp

Two lousy nuts and I would have had the rear subframe off! Need to buy some box spanners now as nothing I have is long enough not to hit on the stud. All prepped ready to drop the subframe. So many wee bits to check, everything has a bracket on the subframe that needs disconnected and in most cases sheers off My advice is take each bolt/nut slow otherwise like mine it will heat up and sheer when you get pee'd off. Also went through a whole can of wd40. now time to buy all new bolts.

PM'd

Will send tomorrow night.

Don't move the butterfly valve by hand. (not sure if you have already from the previous comment. )

Large turkey baister is what I used to jam in the oil.

Also no matter how much fuel has come out the fuel bucket there is always more lol. But as Darren said do it with a near empty tank, saves the smell impregnating into the carpets, seats, your nose.

You will be fine. No pressure.

2nd pic is the fill plug, if you open it stick your finger in you should feel the top of the oil line. (would suggest a torque wrench to nip it up but.... doesn't sound like you have one, so a wee nip on both wouldn't do any harm if you have the correct allen key.

Suggest putting a sheet of paper under it and cleaning the diff then you will get a better idea where it is coming from, personally it's hard to tell on my phone but the drain plug looks ok, fill plug looks shinier tho( one halfway up the side on the fins) drain is the one in the middle bottom of fins, both are the same shape plug, the rest are bolts that go around the outside casing to hold the rear fin cover on the diff.

2nd hand or lotto win? Guess you are going into business making pinbobs? Lol. Nice toy though.

Is this for both r/L hand banks? Need to have a look but think my replacement cover is leaking so would be interested.

Diff in its rig ready for swap, also brakes off and most bolts undone, just a few more then time to drop the subframe, only task I am not looking forward to is disconnecting the handbrake cable from inside the drum as if I remember right it was a pain/fiddly to put back together. might get another few hours tomorrow as I have a day off

Use your old arms as templates and adjust so the dimensions look similar would be my tactic. Wouldn't like the part with two welds having the biggest fulcrum.

Good spot, seen something I would like

Wow that is impressive for a juke! does it really need that large.... wait of course.... powerrrrrrr!! What is the juke able to produce with such mods? knew they were tunable but not big bhp monsters are they?? As for money.... we don't talk about that in this thread, it makes me sad

I preferred project Zupra =/

Well If you don't have a workbench or vice... make one Just fabricating up a wee carrier for dropping the diff into so its upright when I remove it from the housing. should also make it easier for realigning the shims and bearings + checking runout. Still need some cross beams to strengthen it then a helping hand to lift that heavy bugger into it.

Just in the process of removing my old vlsd. . . But I will be keeping the pinion gear, bolts, shims, and bearings. Presumably you will keep your pinion, bearings etc unless they have chunks of weld floating about in them. Since mine is a jdm car I believe it is only the housing that is different, but could check dimensions if you want mine for £100 meeting halfway(I live in largs area)

Exhaust manifold is my guess, but nice job, looks cool.

It would be too much hassle to climb over the rest of the stuff waiting to go on the car! I don't fit stuff anymore, just buy it and store it.

It's been in my attic for months, sorry guys

Does your differential housing have cooling fins on the back? If it's a UK car it will have had the vlsd, from the factory, if it's jdm and no fins you might have to crack it open to see, aftermarket diffs can be bought for either housing so not to worry, try getting a photo of under the back of the car. Also start using photobucket! Welcome to the Z club. =)

I am 5'10" the back seats can be used but they are not good for long journeys, people with bad backs/necks, its cramped. The boot is ok but would struggle to get a large suitcase in one. Cabin is a much, much nicer place to be than the Z, the magnetic suspension does make a difference but dont think my dad ever uses it as he has back pain sometimes (work related). Engine and gearbox (dual clutch) are brilliant, lovely noise, few pops and deep tone for a 4 banger. Gives you that turbo torque shove back in the seat when you floor it. Steering does not give as much feedback as the Z. Servicing aint that bad unless the gearbox goes. Standard 350z or tts, I would go for the TTS but looks wise its got enough to differentiate it from standard tt but not as much presence as the Z.

Engine and engineering is cool but the bodykit is yuk, and I love crazy wings and vents, just looks like every part they had lying around was thrown on. I expect Ian's to be 10x better and faster.

No, the 350z is a different weight and have you looked at the rear suspension???