evilscorp

Same as the ones I have. . . Somewhere.

No problem, =)

I went for the acl as someone was selling them ages ago, also I am aiming for the largest gap oem tolerance, whereas you will probably want mid range for a standard rebuild. Shouldn't be an issue just have to measure a lot more whereas you could just pick that oem bearing as listed in the table and be confident it would give you the gap you are after without any work.

The crank and engine block have letters stamped on it to tell you the diameter of each journal,bearing groove(brain dead, just woke up,so not technical yet). These two marks are used to select the correct bearing thickness with oem items, but if you have to polish or hone the crank they won't be much use, it's a better more accurate way than acl General standard size, to which you probably will have to polish some journals so they are all similar sizes (using plasti gauge). Tells you it all in the workshop manual I think.

Shaved some of the radiator support/ surround so the intake pipework will fit. Then started to make the bracket for the other side, I LOVE ALUMINIUM! Took 20mins rather than hours to cut and drill.

Had the same issue, ended up with the one above, fits great but expensive when you think about what it is, probably could get a metal fabricator to make one up for less.

Shame it weights a tonne! going to understeer into a hedge rather than previously going in backwards.

This wont fit Trying to cut the pipe in situ, then thought to myself, Do you think you can get all the metal shavings out Also saw-zaw wasn't long enough. Such a shame to do but if I do sell the kit on (never happening) a couple of slightly longer hoses should still make this work fine. This is kinda what I am aiming for, just need to find some imperial bolts

This steel must have been used in bomb shelters! Took the whole afternoon to bend and cut this, would have been a lot quicker if I had use of a big vice Needed to use an old traction rod to start the next bend I have decided only to use the steel on one side, Aluminium will do fine on the other since it is less complex, i.e. one bend into an L shape, wont need to be as stiff. Even drilling it is a nightmare, still have one bend to do but will cut the old pipes and bolt it to the rad support before I make it so the positioning is correct. Now I need to find some imperial bolts as no doubt the intercooler is threaded that way.

Wow, that sucks so sorry for your loss mate but I guess mother nature made the hard decision for you. Best of luck!

As above sorry to hear about your dad, but I am sure he would be proud of the work you have achieved here, an epic garage! Really puts some professional places to shame.

I would love to try it, thanks for the future idea mate, I just can't afford the time to remove the radiator etc as I am hoping my building warrant comes in next week so I can knock my old garage down and build my new bigger play pen, hence why I need the car drivable at short notice. =/ what's been happening to your beast recently?

Incase someone comes across this thread, this picture above was not helped by my beer head and the pipework being 3.5" so 3" may work with slim line fans.

How's the crank looking? any scoring from the white metal bearings? Looks like a lot of work mate, best of luck, been hording most of those parts but has taken a few years to get them all! Also you missed new valves as those look shot I think I have a DE head gasket in my kit that I wont be using but you will probably pick up the same gasket/engine rebuild kit I got which has all the gaskets,seals etc.

Guess you haven't used the search button or neither has your garage. It's almost guaranteed the flywheel needs replaced and everyone gets it done at the same time, jdm clutch is the same as UK so save a fortune and buy the parts off traders on here.

Gas fitter, easy money and been trying for months to get someone to fit a gas fire but no one seems interested. Would do it myself but would invalidate house insurance etc

Right, don't think that is going to happen, maybe once i get the other fan/rad I might be able to work it but I will just have to cut the original pipes to make it all fit and have reducers, I don't even think those pipes are 2.5"!

I would love to tube the front but just too much effort for what is becoming something I barely use at the track Also the bodywork bits ive ordered will put me off using it 10/10ths as they are so bloody expensive!

Cheers Dude, I might just pop outside with my beer skin on and try jaming a spare bit of 3" pipe down the gap between the engine and radiator surround. Shame is I have a full mishimoto rad and fans maybe lol in the attic, just can't be arsed fitting them until I pull the engine. Yeah I know you have the daddy blower but I am determined to find out what this one can do before upgrading it.

Just realized I would have to make the pipe with the bypass valve steel so it could have a fitting welded on. but ash sell those too.

About to search the other forum but has anyone made 3" pipe work for the vortech in a DE engine car? (looking at you Adrian,Bennett,Chris). The new intercooler I have is 3", so is the intake and eventually the maf pipe(will wait for a remap so it doesn't upset the maf) so feels ashame to put reducers on it to the 2.5" pipework, also I will try using the alloy stuff ash hoses sell, do you think that it could be mandrel bent to shape of the old ones?

Rain, rain go away, come back another day! Was going to cut the old supercharger pipe work but with them in situ, the front of the car can get a bit wet even with the garage door angled down, but have decided to see if 3" pipework is viable throughout the engine bay.... If any one knows if its possible chim in, might place an order for a long bit of 3" alloy pipe and take it to a exhaust shop to copy the original pipework. Instead I found the old oil container sheet steel and began grinding the rust off and gave it a quick primer (the yellow mess is a paint pen giving me an idea how much I actually need and where the rust was removed properly. Boring, but if I had used alu it would have been quicker but probably not strong enough.

Thanks, didn't do anything today as the weather is poor and off to work soon. I did order a new alloy pipe for routing the intake so should have that sorted next week.

Hello

Also this came a few weeks ago, another attic filler. Just need an engine with some big end damage and a few other parts to complete the set. I have amassed a large amount of stickers over the years so will probably end up sticker bombing my rear boot strut brace.