evilscorp

Depends what engine it is? For a DE I would do the HR gasket mod, make sure all the oil squirters are there and read though superstreets engine build, there are a few...

Give that Z a good rub with a microfiber cloth, stick it on a low loader, remove from area and bin the low loader another wipe with some microfiber. Another Z saved!

So I started to clean the bust head.... bought some gunk, a brush and a bucket that was too small good start. Then I though how am I going to dispose of the stuff after? So I moved from my dads garage to my cramped one which has a broken sink that will be knocked down soon hopefully anyway. So my face mask snapped and the weather was crap and the battery was flat on Poison so probably a bad idea but mehh its my only day off for a while. Managed to remove these studs but the intake ones were stuck solid so I left them on for now. Took this guy off. Something to do with VTC probably. Clean workstation No photos of the application as this stuff is nasty and I didn't want to touch anything with the gloves. After it got a good rinse with some warm water. Should have removed the valve buckets and springs, stem seals etc... but this was more of a test. Dried the head using some old towels, wish I had some compressed air would have been a lot quicker! Need to give the other chambers some more tlc Cleanish and dirty head. I had to leave it upside down so the valve seats don't rust as I can't make sure the valves are 100% dry.

Exactly! But if they detail what they will expect to change for the price then you should be fine as long as they say what issues the engine has and what needs to be done to fix/improve it.

It was A German eBay add, I have been told there is material that is just as good and a lot cheaper, need to have a hunt through my emails. All I can remember is the add saying it's stamped with the words alcantara on one corner,

So I bought a cheap dismantled engine no idea what was up with it until it arrived. Fortunately the damage isn't bad, one valve had a chunk break off and do a bit of damage to the head but should skim off and the cylinder wall has a small scratch which will 0.02" bore out with the new pistons. The upper oil pan also has a small piece broken off which will need welded back on. Cleaned up the heads to check the valve seat of the damaged one and thankfully it looks ok (need to remove the valve to have a proper look but need to order the tools) This means I can keep standard size valves and save some machine work. I will be hitting these with the dremel when I get a chance to remove the casting marks and clean things up. This guy rules. The better head. Some of the lifters/buckets fell out but no biggie as they will all need regaped for the new springs and maybe valves (if I can justify/afford them). Intakes are cleanish but I will remove the casting marks down the side and polish the longer runner radius. These are manky however, The broken valve has plenty fragments and grime to clean up on the exhaust side. Off to night shift so might have a go at this tomorrow. Ran out of contact cement for the alcantara door as I had to start again on the second one as I wasn't happy Also the bodywork still needs attention asap as the builder showed up to say he will start the garage build soon...... heard that before

Looking to make a torque plate, can't really find one and the ones I do from USA are silly expensive for what it is. Going to buy a lump of Aluminium and use a headgasket as a guide to bore out the holes, presumably (have yet to check) both heads could use the same torque plate as the holes should all line up?

Lol, found one on eBay that I might bid on, but cheers Adrian I am in no rush and expect the machine shop may take their time with the parts so worst case scenario I pay for postage twice so I don't hog it for a long time lol.

But I may need the odd part depending what route I take, cheers

I intend to replace everything, even the valve stem guides.I figured it would be a handy tool for the future also I don't have a spring compressor tool and don't fancy the hit it with a hammer trick to remove the keepers.

So as I will hopefully start playing about with these engines frequently I plan on investing in the JWT spring compressor to save some time and hassle. Any one used it before/know the best place to order from? Need a lot of stuff for the heads so might place an order with Z1 or torqen if they can get me one.

As I have yet to remove the valves I have no idea what the valve seat looks like, worst case I buy 1mm oversize and have the machine shop grind the seat down to remove the damage and fit the bigger valves, there isn't much performance gain but should help heat dispersion.

So this is why the engine was swapped out...... anyone recognize? Bye bye valve! Clearly detonating from the colour, This head might be savable but unlikely, the cylinder has a tiny scratch which i can just feel with my nail so should bore out. The other head is a lot cleaner and the valve heads are white. Lesson is don't use sh#'t fuel kids other wise these will knock themselves to death!

Thanks Terence, I still plan to use it but now I know why the engine was swapped out.... Bye bye valve! Might be able to save the head, the cylinder has a tiny score I can just feel with my nail, should come out fine with the overbore.

Anyone know of a good product for detecting cracks in engine/cylinder heads? Don't want to waste my time machining a dud heart. If not it will be another cost to add on for the machine shop (chemical cleaning, cylinder rebore, head skimming, block painting)

Bought this VQ35DE long block off ebay, has everything from what i can see and the only damage is to the upper oil pan. Should be weldable. Most of the parts will be for sale, bar the block, heads,cams, cam covers and some other wee bits. Looking to find info on the last owner, was sold with a silver 350z which had already had the engine swapped outta it for a replacement engine. Thanks Damaged area

I would upgrade to an rev-up oil pump while you are in there as well.

Most tuners can rebuild an engine, but the issue is where to get the machining done and who has experience. I would name Abbey, AME at silverstone as the closest to yourself that know the engine inside out and have good relationships with machine shops other people would be severn valley motorsport. But if you have the time and patience find a good machine shop and do the rebuild yourself?

Can you bend the brackets to the desired angle? Or can you sand/file down the base so it matches the shape of the boot? Still have mine in the attic but the latter is how I plan to mount mine.... when I get round to it.

It depends what clearances your bearings have been built with, if you run big gaps I would use a thicker oil, if it's standard I would use 5w-40. But everyone has their own preferences.

Stripped engine on its way to me for cheap hopefully wont get damaged/lost in transit. I will sell off the bits I don't need and send the block away to get rebored for the wisco pistons.

Well finally UKenginecouriers picked up the engine from Plymouth! Fortunately the guy was still in at 8pm. Now its got a long slog up to me in the west coast of scotland but for the price I paid for courier and the engine it should work out the cheapest and best option for myself.

Yup.

Any recommendations of pallet couriers? Looking to get a engine shipped. Thanks

The newer gearboxes however have the slave in built so unlikely they will squeak. 10x worse if you have bonnet vents as water runs down the top of the engine / gearbox and onto the slave cylinder. =/