evilscorp

Just checked the price.... too much for me. 8.6m x 6m would cost a tonne!

I plan on being dirty now and again so that stuff doesn't look to great for cleaning up spills, however for a man cave that little mechanical work happens it would look cool.

what one did you buy? ebay? amazon?

So my new garage is nearing completion but the concrete slab is quite rough and not great for cleaning so.... whats everyone's experience on resin flooring paint? looks like the prep is a bit of a pain; buff the concrete smoothish then clean and acid etch, before applying the two part resin and if your feeling fancy add some flakes in it to hide imperfections. cost £250ish Or paint with concrete paint? chance it will lift and oil spills will destroy it. Or mats, which the oil will soak through the joins. Or a big sheet of vinyl flooring which would cost a lot and be a pain to cut to shape.

19" 11 wide -40 offset rear and 19" 10.5 wide -12 offset front Should be ready in 8-12weeks. The style well you will have to wait

So the garage is coming along, but no show again from the builders today Thinking about the two part resin flooring with flakes through it? whats everyone's opinion on garage flooring? Took the valves springs,keepers,etc out of the head zmanalex sent me, only issue is my cheap valve stem seal puller wont budge these ones so will have to use pliers. Could do with a good clean, plan to reuse the keepers and retainers so have coated them in oil until I can be bothered giving everything a clean (in the new garage). New stuff from torqen, but need to wait as there was a minor mix up and I need to switch valves and have also ordered some JWT C2 cams (in for a penny and all!) Also bought this so I can be 99% sure everything will be torqued correctly as my old mechanical one has been laying about for a few years and would prefer to have a back up. Wheels have also been ordered

Keep the damper, they help a lot to reduce fueling irregularities when tuning. CJM re-made their fuel rails to include oem dampers to help big power builds, stop water hammer etc.

How mine is setup.

If I didn't get something in a sale from eurocar parts i would be embarrassed

If you think there is a major difference in servicing jap cars compared with euro boxes he is not a mechanic!!! My missus Audi uses a special tool for the haldex oil filter, my mates megan well thats another story... Every jap car I have worked on has been a pleasure, the only issue would be since a V6 can be complex with the front timing apart from that wtf!

Fed mine down from the top, someone pushed, I pulled the string that was attached to it.

More potential, no, but out of the box it may be better than a standard v3 vortech. Vortech's in the states are pushing 650whp+ and still more coming. The V3 blower is probably good for 530whp before you end up over spinning it too much. (then you just stick the 928 motorsport impeller in it and go a wee bit faster!)

Nissan bearings are fine, in fact they are better to use compared with off the shelf aftermarket items as you can get them in much more varied sizes rather than std or oversized as some manufacturers sell. White metal is destroyed by other factors like impurities and heat. I have acl but would be tempted to switch to oem. As for tolerance if you do some searching there's lots of conflictiting opinions on what size gaps to use for different power levels. I would say own tolerances are fine if the correct oil is used, think about the tiny squirters if you use too thick an oil they won't shift much under the pistons until it's properly warmed up.

Normal fuel as in 95?............... or 98 as the engine is designed to run on?

Did you some how convert it to a closed deck block then or is it a metal headgasket that blends in so well my eyes are fooled? Nice work btw

Pathfinder cooling mod needed for the sleeved block? some serious kit there. Also why did they only opt to upgrade the exhaust valves not the intake ones?

a quick goolge and you get images like this put a small twist and then compress, not ideal but if you are cleaning it then re using it, probably the easiest way to do it.

Most people crush it to remove it from the top.

No loss of life/injuries is the main thing, I just hope pestering customers like myself give you a break as it will be a stressful time for yourself and unwanted hassle. Hope things get sorted with minimal fuss mate and let me know when you are ready to progress with business. All the best.

Hi Adrian, can you check your PM's, think we have a wee issue. Thanks.

After 2years waiting my garage will soon be finished.

Bum... just checked the price of a bench drill.... the accuracy is needed and the price is low enough. Any recommendations for a cheap £100 bench drill? Takes the fear out of drilling straight down the valve guide.

Woohoo! Great timing from Torqen, new valve guides and other hard to get ferrea stuff at the best price. Just need to get my finger out now and grow some balls, enough practice on the spare head.... well i might do another few guides before i am confident i wont drill wonky and go through the side of the guide and knacker the bore! Now Adrian about those fancy wheels........

removing valve guides, 1/4" UNF tap and bolt used (M6 is too small and M8 is too big, you try finding M7 s#@t!) Then used a 7.5mm drill through from the deck side to thin out the valve guide and reduce its interference force on the cylinder head. Good old hammer and a punch, (dont use a valve especially a broken one that has been work hardened ) Not much effort involved to remove the old guide but I plan on heating the good heads in the oven at 70-90* to allow them to come out even easier, no scoring of the bores