Watshot

...and the box can be moved aside without issue to help with the access.

I think some people may be confused about the function of the flexible part of any exhaust. It's not there to make fitting easier. It allows for movement between the engine and exhaust system. Before 'flexis' were common, the repetative twisting from the engine would fatigue a given point in the system which would inevitably split requiring repair or replacement. A flexible section at this stress point actually lasts longer than a solid section which may transfer the stress forces to another part of the system.

What torque were they supposed to be? In any event, it's unlikely that you've stretched them. Loosen them off and start again. Otherwise Zmanalex will be able to supply new bolts. Some makes/compounds will squeal more than others. Otherwise you can try smearing some Coppaslip on the rear of the pads/shims. This interferes with the harmonic frequency created between the piston and the pad. Although you shouldn't use as much as shown in the guide above or you risk blobs flinging off and possibly contaminating the discs/pads. A smear where the piston contacts the pad is usually sufficient.

Add 'clock' to that list. Up shift indicator shows in the guage as 'rpm'. May be you missed that looking for 'up shift indicator' instead? The limit can be set beyond the redline, although that seems a bit pointless. May not be the same for all, but the HR redline's at 7.5k and the book says the upshift can be set at 9k. With redlines at 6.5k and 7k, may be the DE's can be set to a maximum of 8k and 8.5k.

Try not to look at it that way. If it's done 9k or it's been sat for a year, it needs an oil change. You're far less likely to sell easily when the time comes if a buyer gets wind that you've skipped oil changes/servicing. My HR is five years old and I've just changed everything, including plugs, because they deteriorate with time as well as mileage. It's done the grand total of 6000 miles. I wouldn't let a monkey from Nissan anywhere near my car. You don't have to work in a garage to know how to service a car properly. In your own time, with no other agenda than seeing the job done right.

Try a breaker, Zmanalex etc. He may be able to tell you if it would work or not.

Maybe worth seeing if the factory fit one from the HR will retro fit the DE, then just a case of powering it.

Unfortunately it's a common misconception that rotary polishers save time. Used properly they take as much time as hand polishing, but achieve far greater results and allow for a greater degree of correction if required. They can however be bought for less than £100, but consumables will be extra (backing plates, foam pads etc.). A DA polisher (Dual Action) is sometimes a better bet for a beginner as they are safer and easier to use, but won't ultimately achieve the same degree of correction, although this is probably not a consideration if it's just for amateur use. A good one though would be more than your budget: http://www.meguiars.co.uk/product/396/Dual-Action-Polisher-Version-2/ although you can get these cheaper than this. If the Halfords version is the classic two handle round thing, then yes, it should be avoided. Nothing wrong with going straight for a rotary, but probably best to read up on some technique over at http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=66024 and if you can, have a practise on something of less value than your Zed until you are happy with what you are achieving. Tell the Missus you'll do her car first as a thank you for the kind gift.....

I see your problem, the accelerator is broken, wheras the XK8 excelled itself.

Don't know if you're serious or not. If you are the second highest bidder it's always going to finish the next increment above your highest bid. It doesn't matter if the winner put £80 or a million on it, if the competition is all out at £76 then the winner pays £77. If you were only prepared to pay £76 then don't worry about it, the winner might have bid £200, you still wouldn't have won it unless you bid £201 or more.

MY07 - 309bhp VQ35HR (313ps)

Although he knew she wanted the rubber out, he genuinely thought she had said "rub one out".

I've heard of 'car porn', but that looks to be a real toe curler...

Yes it matters. It's not just a case of the occasional spelling mistakes which may be acceptable on a quick fire discussion board, but these are the wrong words used in the wrong context. Why should the reader have to work out what the writer is trying to say because they are too lazy to correct it themselves? You have the capability of using the internet, ergo, you are seconds away from an online dictionary. It's basic language. If you want to be understood, use the right words.

The old rule didn't require the cats to be present as such, just that the vehicle passed the required emissions test. The new rule would seem to indicate that cats, if originally fitted, are still present. Irrespective of the emmissions result.

That's £23.44 delivered, and with the club discount.

Don't know where you're shopping Arran, but you're way off. Try here: http://www.ebay.co.u... rbf600&_sop=15 The link above from Opie is only £23.44 delivered for one litre using the 350zuk discount code.

I get it a lot too, and it only happens with this site, so no it's not my server. Slow to load at times (when compared to anything else) and the avatars and 'go to this topic' parts have disappeared from the preview feature again.

It needs changing. Irrespective of age or mileage, if it starts to crack or lose chunks like that, it is past it's servicable life. Probably best to do both on the DE engined cars whilst you are there, as you are unsure on the history. For others reading, HR engine cars only have one belt.

If it's just the fronts, that is there to stop you putting the wrong wheels on, i.e. the rear wheels on the front by mistake. The 'fix' is to take the bolts out. They don't do anything else. Just remember which wheels go on which end!

No mention, or pictures, of any fixings etc. If anyone was interested I would ask first before bidding.

On the badge side there is a small screw. Remove this first, then split the two halves. Straightforward battery swap, make sure it's the right way up. No need to re-program or anything.

I've had that kind of metallic rasp when exhaust heat shields have come loose. May be worth a check if you didn't notice it when checking out the exhaust.

One on ebay for £29 delivered. Couple of cheaper one's if you go abroad. May be worth getting a price from Nissan for a blank sub key and coding it yourself.

I got my second one today after the cutter bodged up the first one. Tried a different key cutting place and had the same excuses about ebay stuff, not their own blades etc, shouldn't really touch it. But after some discussion he gave it a go, and thankfully was successful. It just takes a bit of expertise to set it up on the machine properly, as the grooves in the blade are a different length to the original they have to start freehand as it were. Best thing was he didn't charge me in case it didn't fit, so it has only cost me the replacement. Other thing is, I don't know if it's a later '08 key thing or not, but the transponder is incorporated into the circuit board, so there was no need for blue tac or anything, just a straight swap. Works perfectly, Nissan badge on one side, just needs RTB to fashion a Nismo badge for the other side now. Long time coming.........result.