kazman

No one? There is one that is right for my car on eBay at the moment but i don't want to screw my car up whilst trying to do the sensible thing and have a spare key!

Hi I promise I have read the guid but I still have a question I need answering- Do you unlock car with origional fob and then put origional key in ignition barrel and turn on off six times, then do the press the lock unlock buttons on the new fob (whilst origional key is in the ignition) OR Unlock car with original fob, then insert new unprogrammed key in to ignition barrel, turn on off 6 times and then press the lock unlock button combo on the new fob whilst it is dangling from ignition barrel? Really don't want to end up with no working keys and I have found no clear answer to this despite loads of searches! Thanks guys.

Hopefully an answer will appear in the near future! Could you provide a link to the key you bought? Sounds like yours is the right type and I would like to follow in your footsteps! Thanks

I was having problems viewing the pages. And as I type this, yes it's going crazy!

No, the dry steering bit I kind of stumbled upon. I certainly still get the rattle when breaking. When you say left foot I assume you mean breaking whilst also on the throttle? Have not tried this.

Thanks again I expect your right about the banana bar, just was not sure if that could cause the pop when the wheel springs back to centre also. Guess it might depend on how worn it is. I should add the pop sound when dry steering occurs no matter how far I turn the wheel to the left before releasing it ie it does not seem to be a particular area in the steering range. It does only seem to do it when releasing the wheel from a left hand down position though.

Hi all First off, I have done 100's of searches and so I am aware of likely candidates for what may be causing this rattle, however, I want to know if my problem is likely to be down to one of the typical things or several. I will therefore give us much detail as possible. I have a front rattle from the passengers side when driving over poor quality road surfaces at speeds up to about 40mph. I also think the steering is less precise than it should be, it does not feel very weighty around the centre of the steering which does not inspire much confidence on straight roads. I have also recently noticed that when dry steering (I know this is bad practice but I am only doing it on gravel) that if I apply some left lock to the steering wheel and then release it so it snaps back to centre, I hear a knock through the steering wheel. This is far less prominent and possibly not there at all if I turn the wheel to the right and release it. There are no clunk sounds through the steering wheel when the car is moving. I have had the car aligned 3 times, twice by one garage and once by another. Each time the alignment results have been different before the alignment than they were after, making me wonder if something is causing the car to not hold it's alignment. I would have expected a tie rod issue to be picked up be one of the garages that performed the alignment, and when I shook the wheels at the 3 and 9 position I could not feel any obvious play. So what is likely to cause all the issues I have described? Worn ball joints in the compression rods and or lower arms? I'm guessing drop links would not cause the knock when releasing the steering wheel but please correct me if I am wrong. My car is a 55 so I'm guessing the upper control arms do not require tightening but if it could be the cause I will have a go at them tomorrow. I will be booking in to a garage for investigation but the more ammo i am armed with the better! Apologies for the long post but this issue is really doing my head in! Thanks guys.

I feel inspired now, going to order some products in a minute...

That is cool

Thanks again. Yeah, no excessive force being used, just moderate. Did not hear any noises when doing the test... Will do what you have suggested when I have a spare pair of hands on standby!

Thanks for the reply It might have been, I assumed the rack would not move as one wheel was always on the ground and the engine was off - not sure if I could overcome the steering by rocking the tyre. It is a possibility though, cheers. When you say one rocking one checking, do you mean checking the steering wheel is not moving, or checking for movement in the tie rods? Thanks again.

Hi all I jacked each front side of my Zed up today and held the wheel at the 9 and 3 positions and rocked it. On both sides I could see the wheel and the caliper moving in and out. Does this indicate play in the tie rods or would you always see this movement? I was pusing at 9 at the same time as pulling at 3 if you see what I mean. Clearly I am no expert, so if anyone could tell me what symptoms I should be looking for during this test it would be much appreciated. The fact it did it at either side suggested to me that it's normal but I suppose the could both be knackered! Thanks!

Must be worth a couple of extra horses.....

Thanks for the reply. Is this true for all model years? For some reason I thought it was 2006 onwards, possibly not though. Does your zed feel firm through the wheel when you start turning in to a corner? Or does it start light and get firmer? I'm starting to think it may be worn tie rods, I did have uneven wear on my front tyres when I had my alignment done. I would expect them to advise on this, but would not be shocked if it was missed! Or is it just tyre characteristics in this ridiculously cold climate...

Anyone? Not had my z long so not sure if it is only supposed to feel weighty after a bit of lock is applied...

Interesting research -made for a good read

That was me Its for this reason i am fairly confident my alignment is now right... if it is not i dont know what else to do! What are poples feelings about steering stiffness just slightly left and right of centre? Does it "weight up" as you add lock? This is a 55 plate btw.

Hi all Had my zed for a few weeks now and so am getting used to some of the handling characteristics etc. Yesterday i did a 200 mile drive and noticed on the A roads that the steering was quite light for small adjustments, but then weighted up for sweeping corners. Is this the same for all of you, or is the steering quite weighty even for small movements (eg moving from side to side within one lane). If this is uncommon, what would you suggest me checking? I have new tyres with correct pressures and a recent alignment done. The feel i have refered to is the same for both left and right turns btw. Thanks.

Glad you have made your decision

Have you had the problem sorted now? And was this the cause of it? I'm still not sure if this is quite what mine sounds like....

I can understand your concern, coming from the wonderfull world of SR20's They dont rattle when you first move off in the morning either

I had 4 Falkens fitted last week. Although i have not really had a chance for any spirited driving, i am impressed by the reduction in road noise

I should say so, I was fuming when I discovered the problem. Will have to give it a go every week to see if it fails again. So far so good though, even gave the car a good wash to keep it in a good mood.

Ironically, I am after an orange one

All sorted Went postal on the rocker switch with a can of WD-40. Couple of minutes wiggling the switch and it now works like a charm. For anyone else trying to work out if their seat is all the way back when the motor or switch break - the interior light will dim a touch if you hold the switch in the forward / back position when the seat is already fully forward/back position. This should help you rule out the motor. Hope this helps someone else out in the future