neo-ninja

Sooo gave the car a spin, and sounds considerably less beefy but yet feels more sharp and a little more powerful, is that even possible? Have had a chance to give it real burst of power yet will be interest to see next dual carridge way i get to.

there is an even simpler way to get the boot to pop open, just stick black any slip pads, around 4mm thick on teh bottom of the boots. And hey presto it works a charm

Nissan will charge you in the region of a £1,000,000 for a new one. Elsewhere prices vary upto around £300 (I think) - money which could be better spent on a lighter, shinier, better sounding upgrade!! I had my OEM backbox welded at around 50K and it lasted until 75K. Im on around 46k so hopefully it lasts that long as i do around 6-8k miles a year. What is wierd now i have got it back is how much quieter but more refined the sound it! It must have gradually gone over time then suddenly gone as i dont really remember thinking "wow this is really noisy compared to yesterday" (I drive the car daily) But it definatly sounded a heck of a lot noiser but not in a gone exhaust way more of a meatier muscle car way. But now it sounds much more refined so not bothered eitherway. Thanks for the advice everyone!

How much should i be looking to pay for a backbox? If i want an OEM one.

Ah im really picky so the back box not being level would annoy me! doh! But brilliant suggestion. They have quoted me about £50 to do it but which isnt too bad i didnt think. "wielding"

Brilliant thanks guys, i think i will see what kind of price he comes back with for doing a whole job just for future refrence!

Ah ok cool, you recon getting wielded is worth doing at least for a decent amount of time.

Hi All, Just had the car in MOT, and I did think recently it was making a slight rattle when pulling away in low gears. But service is due soon so didnt think about it. However garage doing MOT have called and said that the join where the pipe joints the back box is nackered. he has said they can wield will prob be an hours work he recons to do, but he says he has no idea how long it will last, if its only going to be 6 months, or 2 years. or he said he can price up new one. I was wondering if anyone can offer any advice, and recomendations ideally asap. Thanks

Yup good point so if you have any kids or know any you can get it cheaper, I was planning on installing a trial for anyone who buys to make sure the unit is working then its up to you to buy a key, or not and use some other method of activation (although buying a key is always recommened)

Hi Buddy, So the unit is fairly tight how it is, i am incontact with the manufactuors, as i am a little uncertain if i will be able to fit the m2-atx powersupply in currently, if not as its a small company i might see if they can extend the case a little. Currently its around 18cmx18cmx6.5cm so its a nice compact build. I havent checked to see if you can get a USB fm receiver but i would suspect you could and then it would be fine. I will keep you posted on case if I need a rethink based on not getting power supply in. But thanks for showing interest. NEO

I just thought the lights looked a bit cheap.

Hi All, So there is lots of talk on hear about car pc installs etc... I have been quite heavly researching doing an install myself over the last 6 months or so, and have been weighing up the possatives and negatives. But i have finally decided I am going to take the plundge and build one to see how easy they are to setup etc.. I have built several of my own computers in the past, so unlike cars they do not phase me at all. Here is the basic system i am looking at building: 1.6ghz dual core Atom 2gb Ram m2-atx powersupply Motherboard onboard GFX and 5.1 sound Crystal case 120gb hdd 2.5" I will then install windows 7 stripped down, and one of the good car pc front ends. Then buy a used satnav cubby and a new Lilliput 7" screen to fit it all in. I will used the bose hack to make sure the system all stays stealth. The whole install can but quite pricey partly as the cubbys arnt cheap and legit windows 7 is pricey so to fund my system i was wondering if anyone else would be interested in buying one of the systems, (just a thought - and the numbers below might be way too much for peeps) I can build you the basic system for around £300 thats withought Windows 7, the cubby and screen. Obviously if you want more i can add and upgrade anything else you want into it. If you want me to install Windows 7 etc which is very easy it adds quite a whack on as its pricey to buy around £80-£100. I would recomend you buy your own screen, and source your own cubby (or you could look at modding your current one) again to keep costs down. I could source these for you but it makes it pricey. The benefit of this system is you are getting something you can run music, films, games, the net, gps and loads more on. It is far more powerful then other systems that you can get which are prebuilt. Its also very easy to take out when you sell the car on and use elsewhere. However obviously this system is more pricey. But why settle for second best. Everything would come with the same warranty i would get buying it new so typically 1 year. I would also direct you to all the places you need to see how to install it (which although i havent done yet, seems to be realtivly easy - getting power from battery etc...) This option is more for those peeps out there who dont know how to build thier own pc, havent done the research like me, and / or dont know where to start but want a system that is top of the range and looks good. And dont mind spending a little more then other systems out there however alot cheaper then similar spec'd systems (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Car-Computer-Carp ... 4aa8282ae0) Let me know what you think, if too pricey, if you would be interested, if you would put down a deposit, if you would be interested if i gave a % to charity or something similar... I am just looking at a way of trying to get my cost down a bit while having a bit of fun.

Good question, so after doing some research, it turned out that the crash bar is further then 3cms away and on some other forums i visit everyone just recoomended covering the crash bar in gaffa tape just to be same. It works a dream, you could if you wanted to only use one row of sensor tape and it will be less sensative, however i figured i would rather be slightly over then under. So my final warning is around 20cm away from impact, and it starts beeping around 45cm away from impact then obviously as you get closer the beeps change. The good news is that at 20cm from impact you know you have a little more you can go back. I have heard with only one strip the final warning is more like 10cm, but that was too close for me! Any more questions just fire them over. NEO

Thanks man, they are very good, tehy take a little while to get used to as initially you cant beleive that you can go back as far as they are telling you! But its amazing once you get to know them, and infact i would be tempted from now on to always put on a car that i am uncomfortble to park. Especially when this is a few hours work, £80 and your done, in comparison to actually hitting a piller or something needing a new bumper getting a respray etc... £400+ Only thing I should add is they sometime get confused if you are parking over or under grating, for example at work i park under grating and they say i am about to hit something when i know i am not. But normally quickly putting in neutral then reverse will sort it. And tbh that is the only place it happens.

Hi All, I got some reverse parking sensors about 4 months ago, and have been testing them ever since, really very good! No drilling required! I thought i would put up a little guide on how to fit them, its my first one so go easy on me! Now having done one i know what to do better for the next guide viewtopic.php?f=17&t=45649 I got the sensors from Parking Dynamics

HI All, If like me you are nervous about parking your ZED, as you find it difficult to judge how much room you have going back, and the massive lack of visibility, you might be looking at parking sensors. I looked around and found I had three options. 1.)Cheap sensors that require drilling of your bumper and painting of the sensors themselves, leaving you with those ugly holes in your bumper, and a massive chance of making a drilling mistake... - £50 cost estimate 2.)A reverse parking cam through the tow eye, however you need to have a screen so after a nurrish kit or car pc, or double din aftermarket stereo, again you need to drill your tow eye but its easier. - £50-500 cost depending on if you have the stereo/nurrish system already. 3.) Parking Dynamics reverse sensors, completely hidden no drilling needed, very easy to install no chance really for mistakes and actually very effective. Although a higher cost then normal sensors - £80 The first two options for me were no goes, I personally don’t like drilled parking sensors and think they would spoil the rear looks, the second option was very tempting but at the time didn’t want to get a new head unit, or nurrish system and really couldn’t afford it. So I went with option 3, the parking dynamics system. They are quite pricey in comparison to normal parking sensors, but are very easy to install and require absolutely no drilling and really some very basic wiring. This is the option I went with. Get them from here: http://www.parkingdynamics.co.uk/ I was sceptical that their website was too good to be true but having fitted them I am very impressed, and I now find I can park anywhere with no worries. Here is my very quick guide for how to fit them: You will need: The parking sensors from parking dynamic - not the ones with the display, it looks cheap and nasty Paint wipes - to remove oil, dirt etc and prepares the surface for the sensors Current tester - to check which wire is the rear reverse light so you can splice in the parking sensors control box Duct tape lots of it! This guide for how to remove the rear bumper: http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Rear_Bumper_Removal Solder plus iron. Start of guide. Start by following the bumper removal guide above, once this is done you need to gently rest your bumper on a soft cloth or duvet. In order for the sticky roles of sensor tape to stick really well to the inside of the bumper you need to insure you wipe down the whole inside with your paint wipes. Use a few and make sure you get it really clean, if yours is like mine it was relatively clean however after several wipes of one of the wipes you notice its not as clean as you thought. After you have done this you then need to work out roughly where you want your parking sensors to warn you about, I decided I want them to warn me about only the very rear of the car and a little of the side of the bumper in case I was reversing round a wall etc.. Once you have done this take your sensor tape from you kit and slowly place it on the bumper, in two strips, one at the top of where you want the sensors to be and one at the bottom, (mine are perfect so use the picture as a guide). Ensure that you DO NOT TEAR THE SENSOR TAPE, if you do you can place another piece of sensor tape over the top but parking dynamics do warn you it may cause interference etc... So if you do tear the tape start again! (You get loads of sensor tape). Ensure when you get to the end nearest your reversing light that you leave yourself a good 6 inches or so of tape not stuck down, so you can connect your connectors again given to you in the pack. I also used some of my duct tape, to tape down both ends of the sensors just in case in future they might start peeling. Then use some of the duct tape round the sensor tape you have hanging out of the end of the sensors to give it some strength and ensure it won’t break! (See image below) Once you have done this move your bumper to the side somewhere safe and scratch free. Grab your gaffy tape and start covering your crash bar, cover it with at least 4 layers of tape - the reason this is done is to ensure that it does not interfere with the sensors and give false readings. It looks messy but don’t worry it will never be seen. Once this is done its now time to remove the interior of the boot. There are guides for this but tbh its very very easy, the seal just pulls off, don’t pull it completely off but just enough that you can then unclip the back panel of the boot, just give it a gentle pull away from you. You can see in this image here: And here the rear interior panel pulled away. Once this is done, go to the back of the car, and where you have the rear parking light connection cut and strip down the green wire, you can see here, my car is a UK 05 model if you have a different model, you can get a friend to start the car put it in reverse and then use your current tester to check which wire is the correct one for the reverse light. Once this is done this is where you need to splice in the sensor module, however you need the sensor module and mini speak (both supplied with the kit from parking dynamics, to be hidden away somewhere secure. Go back to where you removed the interior panel and stick the sensor box below the inner boot line and next to the polystyrene tire holder stuff. Use the double sided Velcro sticky pads to secure it. (Again supplied) Take the power cable from the sensor and run it through the grommet that all the rear lights run through, it can be a squeeze so if it is use some of the gaffy tape to tape the wire to a screwdriver and push it through the grommet. When that’s done splice it into the green cable you cut earlier and solder them all together, then wrap tape around them to ensure they stay dry and tight. Then use the screwdriver technique to do the same for the sensor cable to get it through the grommet. The end of my cable had a connector on that did not feel very secure so I resoldered it on and used tape hence to pic below: Once this is done you are then ready to connect the two sensor wires together, (the one sticking out the back of your car and the one on the bumper just make sure again you are careful when sticking them together and replacing the bumper not to tear the sensor tape. Replace the bumper using a few of the bolts. Test the sensors by getting a friend to put it in reverse while someone walks up to the back of the car. It should be working, so properly fit the entire bumper (if it isn’t working you need to test your connections) Before you put the interior back together again you just need to double check where you want your parking speaker mounted, it is tiny so can go anywhere I didn’t want mine too loud so put it with the sensor box so it would be hidden and under some of the internal panels. Which makes it the perfect loudness, although you do obviously need the stereo volume turned down! Once happy put all the interior panels back on and hey presto! You now have a ZED with parking sensors, and no one will ever know!

im Weybridge way, so not too close to kingston, and probably busy Sunday but let me know if no one else replies.

We had this debate at work, the more film buff people said him, as it was meant to be a journey showing you his progression. However others thought it was the complete opposite and a story showing Marks pogression. I had high hopes for the film, being that it was nominated for awards but it just falls short, i didnt find it exciting like some boxing films. It felt more like a Raging Bull but even slower paced and with less action.

i was completly the opposite actually i just found it to be a very typical boxing story and it just felt you didnt know who the lead was meant to be.

Ah interesting question a guy on another forum has offered me a Jap equivelent of the part above does anyone know if they are different parts in Uk cars? Ie will it fit?

Thanks peeps, will keep you posted, but its worth noting to anyone wanting a car pc install in the cubby you will need one of these from all the research i have done. So all in all you can build a decent pc etc...for £200 but it becomes quite pricey if you have to pay another £120 on a lump of plastic. grrr (not too much i know but then again would you pay £100 for a stereo facia..) A friend in the US is going to try and get one for me then ship to here.

oh i totally understand your frustration, i remember when on my smart roadster they came back and said i had a crack in my fuel tank, i completely thought they were having me on etc.. as i couldnt imagine how it happens, but it is a fault that does happen on them if you hit bad bumps etc.. but its when someone tells you and sort of holds thier breath when they mention costs. TBh wasnt too bad as was living at home at the time so had the money but was still an odd £400 to fix when your not expecting it, its a pain in the arse. But out of interest your problem how much we talking like £100s or £500s?

a quiet word although hard to do goes a long way. You will have needed to give him a formal indication you dont like the way he approaches you i would have thought... Alternativly post his tell up on here and name and im sure we can all give him a call.

pricey problem?

Jeeze that makes thier price even worse. Really im not sure how any one can do a carpc build without these parts in the UK, as all the other forums, mp3cars etc.. all say these parts are needed for a 05 car downwards. So if someone else knows another way of getting a car pc in the cubby without these please also speak. PM sent to Nurrish and R35lee, hopefully they will come back with a good price