ianphampton

I've had exactly the same thing and was told the clutch line runs close to something and gets overheated if you get stuck in traffic Mine was fixed by wrapping the clutch line in heat reflective stuff - but you will also need to change the fluid as if it's overheated once then it is degraded I chickened out of doing it myself and it was fixed by Abbey when they had her up on the ramp for something else - it took them about an hour So, you MAY not need new cylinders, but you do need to get it fixed or it will happen again (and next time it takes less time to cook the fluid so it happens sooner)

I had a rattle in my K2 twin pipes - fixed originally by Mark at Abbey br drilling through (from underneath) He put a self-tapper in, which I have subsequently changed for a nicer stainless Countersunk head machine screw, but either way - it stopped the rattle in the slash-cut pipe Not sure if yours is rattling in the same place - but this fixed mine.

I have an OEM backbox and an OEM Y pipe if that's of any interest. (Backbox done about 30k, Y pipe about 25k, but both in reasonable condition) Also have the OEM cats . . . .)

I paid £59.99 for a "M-TEC Super Plus Battery" with 3 yr warranty in September 2009, exact size for straight drop in for my JDM Roadster I got it straight frm my local Auto Factor ( K&C in Hyde, Gtr Manchester) It was no problem, ex stock, charged up and ready-to-go

My Owners manual said the same - 80 litres Seems pretty obvious to me. ( Ahem . . . .Harumph!)

Before you get tangled up in fitting the Defenser - have you considered a remap? Remapping removes the speed limiter and also leaves you with future options for other improvements . . . . if you're in Essex then Abbey Motorsport in Surrey is only a quick trip to 'south-of-the-river' and you could also UpRev her which will give you other benefits. . . . Anyway - just a thought. (Look at my signature - I UpReved my JDM . . . but then added a few other things,too!)

Welcome I'd suggest you PM a forum member called Rothers (lives in Rotherham, I think) as he's polished his car so you can swim in the depth of shine - it's lovely! I'm sure he could give you some info on how he's done it

After many years sitting in cheap office chairs, when I started my own business I spent some money on a good one - bought it in Costco, so it's probably an American make. US chairs seem to be wider than UK ones, probably where Americans are more . . . .broad across the backside. This is also true in my case, which is perhaps why it feels comfortable for me Still using it after 7 years and it's maintained its' comfort, so spending the money on quality has worked out cost effective If you're in your office for several hours a day, definitely get a good chair

White -10 Reg 370 spotted in Mill Lane, Hyde, today around 6pm Male driver, looking very serious - definitely not smiling! (I was in the Hilux truck so he probably didn't clock me - I was just one of the herd. . . )

Windows go down - don't come back up is "Standard Operating Procedure" Not surprised the strealers don't know the SOPs on a 350, they normally don't know anything It's no big deal, though, is it? You just put the windows up (or not) as you desire after putting the soft top down or up . . . .

Where did I get my plenum bolts - I made mine - but then I do have my own CNC engineering business. ! [attachment=0]M8 Csk Bolts & Washers.jpg[/attachment] and now . . . . I make them, and Tarmac sells them, so - PM Tarmac if you want a set!

I bought a spare plenum from a breaker (Paid £45 for it) though that was the cheapest I found, other prices were £60 and £70 Spent pretty much a full day polishing it with coarse flap wheel, then finer flap wheel, then sander and then small fine flap wheels - got it looking . . .well . . OK, but in the end took it to a local plating and polishiing company and paid them £35 for the machine polish. See Tarmac's thread about the machine polish not getting into the recessed bolt holes, but faced with another 8+ hours just to get them done right, decided to live with it. I discussed the chrome polish option with the plater and he said it was really difficult to get chrome to plate around recesses and holes, and he'd offer no guarantees on what it came out like. I also discussed anodising it with Colour Anodising in Radcliff (Manchester) and they said they'd offer no guarantees as the variability of alloys in cast aluminium means it could come put patchy. . . This is why I ended up living with the machine polish finish - and (in my opinion) it's still 500% better than the dull original. Carbon Fibre engine cover - I bought mine from the USA as over here they all seem to be over £100 - from the USA mine was about £75 including the shipping over the pond. I like the pictures of the powder coated ones, though, that seems a really good idea - especially if you colour match it. I saw a thread on here a while ago (Can't find it now) about someone who painted theirs purple. . . .sounds odd but their pictures also looked pretty good - so maybe painted plenum is a good way to go, especially if it saves all the labour of polishing!

I was in your position 2 years ago - and opted for the UpRev remap 2 reasons - 1) I'm not a fan of secondary fitting as it's another link in the chain and Re mapping allows for other (future) improvement options In my opinion, this has been proven as the correct option. Since delimiting the car about 2 years ago, she's now been UpRev remapped and then re mapped again, as I changed the exhaust in a couple of stages, (new Y pipe, then full exhaust) and then fitted a plenum spacer and Berks HFCs - and each time the remap maximised the gains possible from the improvements. Anyway - it's up to you, but I'd recommend the remap route. The only other thing to make sure is - pick someone in whom you have confidence for the remap. There are still people around who say they'll do you a remap on a budget as it's a new development for them - I'd suggest you avoid that and go to someone who knows what they're doing. I can't comment on people I've not used - but if it helps point you in a good direction, I travel 250 miles from Manchester to Oxted in Surrey to take my girl to Abbey Motorsport. It costs me the day travelling each way - it costs the fuel each way, and Abbey are not the cheapest anyway - but I don't regret spending the money as whenever you have any questions, they give you straight answers, and I have complete confidence that they know what they're doing. Messing with the map of your ECU is getting pretty close to the brain that makes the heart of your engine beat - and I'd not like to entrust that to just anyone - and Abbey have done a great (well, a few great) jobs for me, and I'm happy to recommend them. Good luck - please post which route you choose!

Not good news, here, I'm afraid viewtopic.php?f=31&t=52690 JDM keys are not available over here, and if you buy a UK key then it will not program to the car - at least, that's what my experience has been. My local stealer said they'd get a key from Japan and program it for me - all I had to do was give them £399. . . . . .Ouch ! If you succeed in finding anything better than this, please let me know as I'd love to get a 2nd key if I can find one at a slightly more sensible price than 400 smackers By the way - welcome to the forum, and I hope you enjoy the car as much as I have since I got her a couple of years ago. Even though the weather is not ideal in Setember this year - you'll love the sensation with the top open, the wind in your hair and the shove in the spine when you feed her some beans. . . . . if you have spare funds, get a stainless exhaust and the sound will give you even more buzz. (Sometimes I almost feel sorry for those folks who have to do their driving 'totally enclosed')

I love my Zed in any conditions except snow - she only goes sideways in snow! That's why I bought this - as a 2 vehicle driver I think I've got most bases covered with the Hilux and the Zed!

If you decide you wanted just to replace your system with stock parts - I have my old system for sale - Y pipe has done about 25k, the rest about 30k miles viewtopic.php?f=32&t=53271 Let me know if I can help

Live and let live - I have a spider living in the wing mirror of the Volvo. He (or she) builds great webs, though, even at 70 mph they thrum a bit in the wind but don't break! They've been in there ages - probably a month or more, I don't trouble them, they don't trouble me, as they only come out early mornings, so we co-exist quite happily.

Can't do 16th - that's my last day of a 1 week visit to Corfu. (Yes!! Off tomorrow! ) (Hopefully I'll still be in 28 degrees sunshine while you're shivering in the Manchester rain in the KK carpark )

I'm up for a meet there - watched them building it so it would be good to get in and see the cars close up, especially if someone can get them to do a special night for us I'd also do another donut meet - perhaps we could suggest that Infiniti orders the donuts in if they're going to play host to a bunch of us . . . .

I have an OEM Y Pipe available if anyone wants it. It's done about 25k miles, been off the car for about a year now.

I had BC Racing coilovers fitted recently, and did not want the car lowered much - BC Racing supply extenders so you do not have to lower the car if you don't want to. In the end mine was lowered about 15mm to achieve what we decided was the best compromise of improved handling but still maintaining the ability to drive over normal roads (including speed bumps). I discussed this with the guys at Abbey before they did the job so they ordered the extensions with the coilovers. This also has the benefit of being within the range of adjustment on the support arms (camber arms?) so you do not need to buy special ones to maintain the camber of your wheels. I have to admit I really like the way the car feels, and it's so good to be able to alter the handling to suit what you're doing. I wind the suspension to soft when I'm taking the gf out for a Sunday run to lunch in the sunshine (well, rain then, this is Manchester after all, but it's still a Sunday gentle amble) and then wind her up a bit when you want something more spirited. She's on about 9 or 10 for most of the time, which is just over half way, and it's just a bit firmer than OEM settings. Dropping her 15mm is about right, too, and I can still get over (most) speedbumps (though there are a few round here in Manchester where I need to take it gently) but it is manageable. Mark at Abbey said he regrets lowering his as much as he has for normal road use as it bottoms "all the time" Give the guys at Abbey a call - they're agents for BC and will happily set the car up however you want it.

I have a K2 on mine, and the sound is great. The fit is. . . . .well, it fits, but we had to fiddle it a bit, and there's a screw I put in to one of the rear pipes to stop the rattle. It's the 2nd one as the first had a 15mm section which wasn't welded so I took it back. If you're fitting it yourself, allow a bit of 'adjustment time' as Japspeed quality is not of the first order. From what I've seen, Milltek quality and fit is better. But, with a bit of adjustment, you'll get it to fit, and Hey, it's an exhaust, it's underneath, and it's the function which is important. The 304 stainless feels good, so it's not going to rot anytime soon. The sound is fantastic, and I love it - there's loads of threads with clips of the sound, and if you go thte next step with Berks it sounds even better! good Luck with your choice - and whatever you pick you'll enjoy the improvement!

Backbox for, say, £55. Flange is OK, too. Condition is OK, see pics Let me know if you want the mid section, Y pipe or cats, too. . . . . . viewtopic.php?f=32&t=53271 viewtopic.php?f=32&t=52846

Backbox for, say, £55. There's no bad rust on the welds, and the flange is OK too Condition is OK, see this pic as well as ones from above

No idea about Viezu - but my experience with Abbey has been extremely positive. Initially I just had an UpRev remap with a better y pipe, and as I posted at the time " . . .To be honest she now feels like she was meant to be, but they penny-pinched on the clumsy exhaust and the savings compromised the performance. The extra power and torque now mean . . .well, let me describe it. You're stuck behind a Merc on the motorway, doing, well, maybe 85, (In theory, of course, I'd never actually break the speed limit) but the guy just won't move - then he finally shifts into the middle lane and you say "OK, let's go, girl" and with just a minor stroke of the throttle. . . .you end up getting to almost 100 by the time you get to his rear bumper, and then you're by. And, you can tell, she's just lapping it up, it's just so easy. This is how the engine was supposed to feel - " Since then I've had the Berks and the plenum spacer and a full stainless (K2) exhaust, remapped her again to capitalise on the improvements, and she's even better, sharper, definitely more pulling and responsive, and I think that's coming from the torque gains as much as the power. To summarise - I believe the UpRev & remap finds you the power that Nissan hid, buried in the engine, and she'll feel so much better once you release the block and let her give you the performance she's just waiting to lavish on you. . . .