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Everything posted by Sam Mcgoo
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As above, thought some might want to know of a couple of cheap deals at the moment - Aldi, 150 bar 450lph Workzone at Aldi £79.99 starts today https://www.aldi.co....ressure-washer/ and Amazon, Nilfisk 120 bar 440lph £69.99 http://www.amazon.co...f=cm_cr_pr_pb_t
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Nice pics
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Yeah, measure it's size and go to your local motor factor, they will sell them. Then get someone to weld them on for you.
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Still got my OEM, just needs rubbing down and a re-spray.. Missus got out of the car in Tesco today and walked around to the boot, saw the new badge and said THE 3 NOT PERFECTLY STRAIGHT... Told ya.
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Suits ya car But the 3 is pretty wonky .........
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http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/83170-it-appears-i-have-flames/ And have a look here - http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81689-making-a-zed-flame/page__hl__flames I did a search for 'flame'
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Just two for me. Had a z32 300zx for 7 years, and had the 350 for nearly 4 now. Always loved the zed cars. First car I ever fell in love with was my dad's 260z. He then had a 280zx, a z31 300zx and a z32 300zx. I definitely would like a 240 or 260z at some point. I still love them.
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Yeah, I'm sure there is a guide on here for stripping and cleaning them.
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Fuel all over the floor problem!!! HELP NEEDED
Sam Mcgoo replied to Jared350z's topic in 350Z Technical
As Lexx has said try and find the manual on here, I'm sure its a sticky somewhere. Regarding the fuel lines, I'm pretty sure there is no fuel lines on the passenger side of the car. There is of course, the fuel rail on the passenger side of the engine located under your plenum, above where the spark pugs are. There is the hard pipe that supplies that rail which runs across the back of the engine at the top. Its a gold colour hard pipe. It also has a fuel dampener bolted to the rear end of it. This does have a little o-ring in it , so could be that, but I've never heard of one just springing a leak. I would check the fuel line that runs along the drives side from front to rear. There is a connection from hard pipe to flexible just where it goes up into the engine approx just behind the front wheel. This is the most likely place. Also check the pipe where it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side of the engine near the bulkhead. it goes from flexi to gold hard pipe, again with a fuel dampener fitted there. -
I was sure I'd posted on this thread before, but appears not. This is my latest tune/dyno although a couple of years old now. Model: '54 UK GT DE Engine Mods: Vortech V2 Centrifugal Supercharger, Polished, Vortech Front mount Intercooler Maxflow racing bypass valve Kinetix SSV Inlet Manifold Walbro 255 Fuel Pump AEM 'Basic' Return Fuel System Deatschwerks Injectors 600cc Invidia G200 true dual exhaust Japspeed Decats Custom K&N Cold Air Intake Mocal Thermostatic Oil Cooler Kit JWT Oil pan spacer Stillen Pneumatic engine damper Custom Oil Catch Can Dyno: Abbey Motorsport Hub Dyno Power: 401.1 BHP @ Hubs (Approx 442 BHP @Flywheel) Torque: 336 lbft Torque Blue line = Current tune Yellow line = Previous tune
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Pappa's got a brand new Datsun!! Infiniti G37S (Pic heavy)
Sam Mcgoo replied to stanski's topic in Other Cars
Like it. -
Sorry we missed it Colin, but hope you enjoyed it.
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For 19" ? Thats a very good price!
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The Potenza RE050 are a good tyre, I used to run them on my 19s. I have replaced them with Michelin Pilot Super Sport on recommendation of many on here and they are VERY good. I would highly recommend them. I got mine on the internet @ Tyre Universe for around £800 for 4. There are a few other internet sites worth a look, oponeo, camskill, mytyres, black circles etc... Also Funky Tyres a trader on here were doing good deals on them.
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Looking good. Good skills doing this yourself. Looking forward to seeing the finished article.
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Hubs of course : Still very impressive figures. Think you might be confused, 503 @ hubs will be 550+ @ flywheel.
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Sorry to hear about the bad times, can't really add much to what everyone has already said. But good to have you back.
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Lol, cheers. That's the one thing I don't like about them, and never have, but I like the aggressive look. I did think about putting vinyl on instead but thought that might look worse. I knew you would say that ......well you or SMD Cheers for the comments guys, I'm gonna run with both for now and see how it goes.
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Many are tuned with dyno print outs as proof. the only way to gain any power on the Z33 is to have it re-tuned usually UPREV using the stock ECU, and that requires the use of a dyno anyway. This will only give between 280 and 320ish depending on engine etc... Its very hard to get big gains if staying N/A Forced induction is the only way to get proper power. There's a few on here that have superchargers or turbos fitted and power levels range from about 360 to over 500hp. Lots of information if you do a search here. Try 'dyno' 'supercharger' uprev' 'Turbo etc....
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Yes it is, they have upto 6 months to do you. Not according to the offical source: https://www.gov.uk/speeding-penalties That's good to know Colin, thanks for the reference.
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There is a guide on here so have a look around. Think its in the new members or guides section. Basically, the easiest way is to get a 'Photobucket' account, upload to there, then post the 'image link' into your post on here.
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Hi Frankie Welcome to the club. I have recently moved from Downham Market and am still local so will definitely see you around as I've never seen another Zed in Downham. Get some pictures up of the new toy!
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Vortech supecharging technical and reliability thread
Sam Mcgoo replied to GT4 Zed's topic in Forced Induction
That PCV info is an interesting read Bennet. My current set up is as your option 5 with a occ between bank 1 cam cover and Kinetex SSV. And a mini K&N filter to atmosphere (located near the S/C) from bank 2 as seen below. As far as I know I'm not having any problems with the current set up, no smoke etc... So not sure I need to alter it much. Maybe putting a check valve in to stop the boost going back through the PCV valve. Out of interest, does the PCV valve not require to be connected to a vacuum in order to suck out all the bad stuff? So just venting them to atmosphere surely won't do as good a job? -
You purchased a car and don't know what year of manufacture it is? It could be 12 years old.... Or 8 years old.... That could make quite a difference to its value. You must have really liked it, or got it cheap to not care at the time of purchase.
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Looks good. I've just done my lip for the second time. First time lasted about 18 months, but I didn't do it particularly well in the first place. Two things ruined mine - I went to a polish car wash and to try and get a dead fly off they put the jet wash lance point blank and it put a cut in the plastidip that a bit of water got under lifting a tiny bit. This wasn't too visible until up close. I had used a pressure washer on it many times before without issue, so just don't go too close with the lance. The nail in the coffin was when I changed my front plate. I used 'stickystuff remover' to clean off the remaining 3m tape glue and some dripped down onto the lip, the plastidip just melts with this kind of stuff on it, so had to remove it all.