Sam Mcgoo

I've been reading this from the start but just realised I haven't posted yet. I'm very jealous of these 240/260z projects as it's something I've wanted to do for a long time. The first car I ever fell in love with was my Dad's '78 260z when I was a nipper. Without doubt, that was made me a petrolhead. Good to see your doing one Darren, as others have said, you'll do it right and do it justice I'm sure.

Welcome to the club. I recognise your name from when I was on mkivSupra.net. Good to see another early Z project, one of dreams for a long time so very jealous.

I suspect it was a bit of both. I've had this a few times, usually when on a wet motorway journey with lots of spray around. Exactly as you describe, hit 4 k AFR goes rich and no power. I always put it down to either a bit of water getting on the maf, or just the restriction of the filter being soaked always clears once dry the next day. Was going to get a water sock but haven't found one to fit my setup yet and also dunno if I could be arsed to fit and remove when it rains with my filter being behind the bumper. It could be that your belt was slipping do to the restriction caused by the wet filter. It would have made the SC very hard to rotate due to the vacuum caused by the blocked filter.

Also, if you drive onto the blocks as shown, it will alow you to use the OEM scissor jack as well. As the car is higher from the ground it allows the scissor jack to become narrower as it raises therefore not hitting your skirts.

This is a post I made from another 'how to jack up zed thread from 2 weeks ago' . . . We'll as you know, you've answered you own question. Lol Jack it up as on the diagram you describe. Trolley jack goes on the rear diff. There is a round metal knob that protrudes down from the diff - this is the jacking point so you don't have to remove the diff cover. The front goes in between the front wheels, behind where the engine under cover is bolted. This I have a picture of..... Getting under the car far enough can be a pain, I need to use block first. I just cut a length of 4x4 into 4 pieces. I drive up on these then there is room for the jack. The other jacking points are marked by a little V cut out in the sill seam. This is designed for the scissor jack which has a slot in it for the seam so as not to damage it. You can use a trolley jack or axle stand there, but with caution and you'll need to use a piece of wood or a hockey puk with a slot cut out so you don't crush the sill. Hope that helps.

Lol, so that's within 30 miles of East Anglia? From Kings Lynn or Southend? Can you narrow that down a bit as EA is pretty big. I have used, and would highly recommend the wheel genie in Huntingdon if that's within your range. They are very good and come highly regarded.

Welcome to the club. Your zed sounds pretty cool. Gotta love FI. Hope to see it at a meet one day.

Very common fault. If anything rolls under the seat, you move them for vacuuming etc... A wiggle and a reset normally does the trick.

35k on an 54 plate.

My first post edited as I found some more pics to help.

Head gasket failures are pretty rare on these. Double check both fans. With air con switched on both fans should be turning.

Yeah the op (graham) has over 6.5k posts in less than a year and is worried about post boosting.

Well, that's fair enough really......... Very annoying hearing stuff like that, on the bright side, at least it was something soft.......ish.

We'll as you know, you've answered you own question. Lol Jack it up as on the diagram you describe. Trolley jack goes on the rear diff. There is a round metal knob that protrudes down from the diff - this is the jacking point so you don't have to remove the diff cover. The front goes in between the front wheels, behind where the engine under cover is bolted. This I have a picture of..... Getting under the car far enough can be a pain, I need to use block first. I just cut a length of 4x4 into 4 pieces. I drive up on these then there is room for the jack. The other jacking points are marked by a little V cut out in the sill seam. This is designed for the scissor jack which has a slot in it for the seam so as not to damage it. You can use a trolley jack or axle stand there, but with caution and you'll need to use a piece of wood or a hockey puk with a slot cut out so you don't crush the sill. Hope that helps.

Should have just used a can of that tyre repair stuff, works wonders apparently....

Hi and welcome to the club. Have a look in the brakes section for more info. I run the DBA T3 club spec discs with ferrodo DS2500 Pads, HEL braided lines and RBF600 fluid and love the set up for fast road/ occasional track day. The traders on here can help you with these if you like the sound of them.

This ^ If it the same from both sets of discs. The smallest bit of crud on the hub will unbalance a disc. Take them off and thoroughly clean the mating surfaces.

If it's that loud, I'd suspect a bearing of some sort. Wheel bearing or diff I would guess. You say between 2-3500rpm its loudest so is it rev related? or speed related? Also, if you had coil-overs / lowered the day it started it could be because the prop shaft and drive shafts will be running at a slightly different angle which could have highlighted any issues. Have you checked for anything rubbing anywhere?

Plan something extra special in the area of Silverstone for the day before, stay in a nice hotel and then she'll let you go... Maybe... I actually mentioned doing that but she weren't too keen. Maybe next year eh.

Really fancied this and the track time, but apparently my wife doesn't think we should spend our anniversary at a car show.

You boys know how to party at the weekends! Good to see it's finally under way! Should be epic.

Tyre wall stiffness makes a lot of difference, what tyres do you have fitted? Most people have them a little higher I believe. I used to run 38 front 36 rear, with re050a currently running 36 all round with mpss but haven't experimented yet. Each driver is different, and it also depends how you wear your tyres.

Welcome to the club.

I can't hear the audio at work, so can't comment on the noise. However, I can't believe you get a nasty engine noise after not checking the oil for six weeks, and it's not the first thing you do! I hope it's not low or it could be very costly. Good luck, hope it's nothing serious.

Welcome to the club.