sasha@lazytrips

Be prepared for them going a rusty-green colour within weeks and the badge peeling off from the glue over time... Mine has been consigned to the bin and I couldn't be happier.

You can use hairdryer/hot water/lots of scrubbing and it'll still look rubbish after an hour of trying to carefully get it off. Get yourself Autoglym tar remover - whole job done in 2 minutes with absolutely perfect results. Speaking from experience of 2 weeks ago.

Same for me. Abbey adjusted the handbrake and it works perfectly now.

I suppose there is that option but part of the apeal for me is doing the trip in a convertible. I suppose you could swap over mid trip for some of the less scenic sections. The convertible aspect gets very boring very quickly as going at any speed above 30mph, you will fry faster than an omelette on Saturday Kitchen, not be able to talk to each other or hear any music or whatnot. I drove a convertible mustang for around a week across a few states putting a couple of thousand miles on it and the roof stayed up 95% of the time. The Challenger was definitely a far better option (or Camaro SS if it floats your boat more than the Mopar), but hey. Different people like different things Also beware - the convertible Corvette that Hertz offer is incredibly tempting until you see the size of the boot. I am not exaggerating when I say that anything other than a very modestly sized rucksack will not fit into the car.

Get yourself a Challenger RT Classic from Hertz. The Mustang feels like driving a sofa with strings attached to tiny wheels. The Challenger, however, is a seriously good car and the huge Hemi under the bonnet is

In general, if the vibrations get worse and worse the faster you go, it is most likely to be a wheel failure (not all are visible) or something like a spacer deformation or any other mechanical problem of the sort. If the vibration goes away at higher speed like in your case, my money would be on something like the hub, a loose nut somewhere or some other minor thing like that. Your best bet is probably to find a decent garage with a 4wd-friendly rolling road (I'm not too hot on the diff set up in Landcruisers) and figure out which wheel is the offending one. Then do a simple test of swapping that wheel with one on the other side. If the problem moves to the other side of the car, it's got to be the wheel/wheel nuts/spacer. If not, it's going to be something else - much cheaper way of figuring out what is causing the issue.

In reality, the zed is going to be considerably faster and more powerful, but you will not feel it in the same way as the torque curve is going to be considerably more flat than in your previous cars. It's the old argument of your Celica feeling like 100mph when you're doing 50 and the zed feeling like 50 when you're doing 100.

Let's hope the door smacks your backside on the way out.

1. Manager - Craig Bissett --- Team - Sex Panter Motorsport 2. Manager - AsianUK (Dips) --- Team - Fire Breathing Rubber Duckies 3. Manager - Struan Fredersdorff --- Team - MOY Industries 4. Manager - Leo Au-Yeung --- Team - Hobknobs united 5. Manager - Sasha Yanshin --- Team - LazyRacing

I wouldn't go out with Pippa Middleton either.

They are Volks Josh... All a matter of personal taste I guess whether they are Volks or not. I personally love the splitter, but really not a fan of the wheels either.

I think I might be alone in not being a Boxster fan. I generally don't find that porsches do anything for me anyhow and am not a fan of a lot of features like those side air inlets.

I'm driving down end of next week - should coincide with the launch of my new travel website as well so look out for the piccies

After watching the above, check out this out. Absolutely hilarious.

Really not my cup of tea.

Our renewal was considerably cheaper than two separate policies on the zed and a 3.2 v6 TT. By considerably I mean around 60% cheaper than the cheapest quotes for separate policies from anywhere else using all the price comparison sites, independents, etc .

Well I'm taking my zed down to France, Switzerland, Austria, Germany and wherever else I come across (including Geneva Motor Show) on the 15th, so if Zed Ted wants to come, he'll need to do so soon.

The previous owner is probably sitting at the computer with popcorn and laughing his head off thinking "I knew it would drive them nuts".

It's actually a crazy conspiracy theory. CS and Rarerims each run 20 additional board multi accounts to create an illusion that everybody has them to pressurise people into thinking that they really ought to purchase them themselves. All photos are photoshopped and there are rumours that Andy's RX-7 boot hides alien bodies that escaped from Area 51.

They will fly through MOT. But they can't test the quality of the brake pad relative to an OEM one there. The regs stipulate that any brake components such as pads, discs, lining, piston parts or whatever that are not OE have to perform within 15% (better or worse) of the standard equipment. Therefore brakes which are considerably better fall foul of the regs. Note: the box that DS2500 pads come in says "For Race Use Only". Yeah i noticed that on the box! But if you think about it. Noone tells their insurance company if they have changed their OEM tyres, brake pads, discs or even headlamp bulbs, and who knows what parts garages fit or whether they are up to OEM spec. In fact I dont think at any point anyone actually checks a car to ensure items are up to OEM spec. Seems strange to some degree to have regs like this if they are never actually checked. It's a reg that makes perfect sense and exists for a good reason. The reason is that when a barryboy in a corsa writes off a lambo because he fitted Aldi own brand brake pads, the insurance company and courts will have a reasonable argument to say that the driver is at fault and fully liable for all costs which they wouldn't be able to do without regs like this. Unfortunately the regs were poorly written as it is hard to see how a significantly better performing brake component can not pass the tests, so it's down to individuals what they want to do about their brakes. As I said I value safety over a pointless regulation. In my personal opinion, just because there is a reg out there, does not mean that common sense should not be used. Reminds me of firefighters who would not enter waist-deep water to save a drowning epileptic because their rule book said they had to have special training to do so.

The wheels look OEM on the car, fit the wheel arches perfectly (not leaving large holes and being too small as with the RAYS imho and not stupidly rubbing everywhere as with many other aftermarket wheels on other cars). In addition, they are reasonably priced, perfect offsets and widths and have a high quality finish. What's not to like?

Bingo, and this is why I'm having to keep a 'new pistons' fund sitting around just in case, and realistically I'll probably go for a bottom-end rebuild before too much longer. It's just not nice not knowing what state the pistons are in The previous owner was very open about having run it on 95 for the last 6 months of his ownership, so it seems that despite the obvious warnings people see it as more of a recommendation than a necessity. DB Disclaimer: I didn't know 95 was THIS bad for the engine when I bought the car, or i would have walked away. I like to see it as an opportunity. If/when the engine begins giving up, you have a perfect reason to go and get a forged block with all the bits and pieces. There's always the good excuse of "It's cheaper than buying a 370z".

They will fly through MOT. But they can't test the quality of the brake pad relative to an OEM one there. The regs stipulate that any brake components such as pads, discs, lining, piston parts or whatever that are not OE have to perform within 15% (better or worse) of the standard equipment. Therefore brakes which are considerably better fall foul of the regs. Note: the box that DS2500 pads come in says "For Race Use Only".