M13KYF

says it all

congrats

stick them on ebay, best bet

finally got round to getting these pictures of my camera and one before i set off to meet up for the donuts (both varities )

we are now supplying the Haltech plug and play - more features than the F Con, and, less money haltech: http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=2843 or, there is the utec too, which works well for NA mods, and for forced induction up around 500 hp. I have the UTEC in my full NA car, and its worked great, though I am now upgrading to the Haltech in the coming weeks utec: http://www.z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?mode ... rodid=1602 and of course, both are in stock Maybe you can answer if that ECU gets rid of the speed limiter on a JPY import? get a HKS speed defender, that will sort it out

it's been proven on dyno's with test pipes, better getting high flow cats, at least then you don't have to remove them come MOT time

made a sticky

already here in this section viewtopic.php?t=5091

to the club

didn't think they ever resolved the issue with the TVR engine

wish them all the luck but am surprised that they haven't addressed the main issue which is the engine rebuild at 30,000 at a cost of 8k

old but good one

Yeah, thanks for that hospital pass Mike The truth is that I think I agree with most of what you are saying (jargon aside), the engine is basically nothing more than a pump and as such more air or colder air or denser air should equate to more power. However dyno experience gives the lie to this and the truth is that everyone has their pet theories but nobody really knows the definitive answer - you will only get that from Nissan. This was a hot topic a few years ago on my350Z and crops up from time to time there and you always get plenty of wild-assed theories - a lot of heat and not much light. I would suggest that if you are interested in the definitive answer, you try there. I wouldn't post up on the FI section though because what most people come to realise very quickly for this car (it look me about 6 weeks ) is that spending £1000 in the almost vain search for a lasting 10BHp NA is futile compared to spending £3000 to get a guaranteed 130BHp from a FI solution - so in fact the answer becomes almost irrelevant from a cost/benefit point of view the only tefal I could think of

guide here to start you off http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=126

cracking pictures Dave keep them coming

to the club, now the fun begins

good result but as suggested with the battery being jumped a few times, it may be past it best now. I think some tyre places or halfords do a free battery check, perhaps worth checking

need to see the end of the connector better, but to me it looks like some aftermarket kit with it having a curly cable. Out of interest does it run up to the back of the cigarette socket between the gloveboxes as to me it looks more like a phone charge cable for a motorola or sony erricson

looks spot on there phil

moved again

rainex wears out over a time and needs to be re-applied anyway

to the forum this is one which may be Prescience could answer

moved again TT you need to start posting things in the correct areas.