danZman

It had enough fuel for me to get back home, I filled it yesterday with 99 v power from shell. No spark and no fuel coming to the cylinders, I am worried ECu is gone Rang the seller he said he once connected jump leads (high voltage) to the wrong terminals. Thanks for all the help so faar The person who just sold you this car told you he once connected the battery terminals around the wrong way.... was this before or after you brought it? do you have either: 1) trading standards number 2) a gun license

Did you put 95 RON petrol in it? If your did your car is probably going into safe mode. In Japan they use 100 RON fuel I think, so 95 is likely to cause pre-detonation. Fill your tank up with Tesco 99 or Shell V-Power.

Hello. I have been experiencing some power issues in my car, and have found out what the problem is. On my + battery terminal, the terminal branches off into 2 separate wiring looms. When standing in front of the car, the right hand loom is supposed to have a fuse-able link between the connection. The people who imported my car replaced this with what looks like a lump of solder and copper, which eventually has worked itself loose, and my car looses power now and again. I have done a temp fix with a screw, but im not confident it will last forever. I need to purchase a fuse and re-establish this link, but have no indication what size fuse it is supposed to be. Im sure its either 50, 80 or 100 but I dont know for certain. Can anyone help me?

Car died today, had to rip the siren out to stop the F**KING thing. Late for work - slap on the wrist. New car alarm - £375 quid including removal of old alarm. The boot slamming you in the back of your head whist your frantically looking for a 10mm spanner to disconnect your alarm at night-time. Priceless.

Yesterday I started to get VERY strange issues with the car. I kept getting the "key still in ignition barrel" beep when opening the door with the key in my hand. The idle would change 3 or 4 times on a typical 14 mile journey, between 600 and 1200. Windows would NOT work at all, even after reset, totally bolloxed. Do I took off my negative terminal and went to bed with the hump Woke up this morning, reconnected it, everything was fine. All resolved by a second controlled ECU reset. It was almost like the inital problem was the ECU was "half reset" by alarm faliure which I know isnt possible. Im really confused now.

Im really not too sure what the company I brought my car from (auto terminal) did. They had to get it tested as part of entering the country for use on the roads. I think it would be a simple case of getting it re-tested at a local DVLA station right? Thats the only place mine went.

Thanks for the reply. I got my battery tested at the weekend and it was "70%" healthy, so my next test is to do the butterfly clean with the carb cleaner. My car is 2003 so there is a good chance it has never been cleaned. Fingers crossed!

Hello, I am looking for some advise on what is wrong with my fairladyZ. Got to the car tonight, tried to unlock it, alarm started uncontrollably going off, even my FOB wouldnt stop it. After the 3rd round of sirens it went off. Got in the car, started it, seemed fine, but im sure the car lost power at some point because: 1. My cd player settings were reset. 2. My engine management light for a faulty lambda sensor had gone. Started to drive the car, and everytime I came to a stop, when the revs dropped back down to idle they would dip below to about 200 rpm and then bounce back to 600 where they should be. I assumed this was the ECU "relearning" my car, but after a 15 mile trip it was still doing it. After I got home, I tried starting my car, it starts but immediately falls past idle and dies. The only way I can start it is to give it a small bit of accelerator for a second or two then it manages to idle. What the hell happened! On the way to work it was absolutely fine! Came back and it was fooked! Im right in the middle of buying a house now so I damn hope this aint expensive to fix.

When I brought my 03JDM a few months ago, they asked me if I wanted to wait an extra week so that they could get the car tested under the new regulations. Meaning my tax was cut from like 400 a year to 180 or something. Naturally I agreed. I think its just a case of getting your car re-rested (de-cat permitting) lol

I think your right, I put more 5w30 in it and it was quieter this morning. Think next oil change I will move to a thicker oil for the winter.

Thank god. Thanks for your help guys, im using 5w30 too so the oil is pretty thin. Feeling better about it now, will top her up tonight. Wise to mix 5w30 with 10w40? I would rather have thicker oil for the winter. Maybe ill change it.

Engine oil is half way, and only changed 2k ago. Looks like I will need to get someone to get under it and take a look, just wondering if you guys could narrow down the problem as by debit card isn't such a happy bunny as it was a month ago.

Ever since I owned the car (4 months) 7 times out of 10 it makes a very strange rattling noise on startup, this morning was extra loud. It starts every time, always on 5th click of starter motor, the revs jump up to 2k and then drop down to cold idle RPM, usually 1200 - 1500. But its so loud its making me think there's something loose.... Because I have the clutch engaged, im sure it isnt any part of the drive-train as it never makes the noise again until next cold start-up. I think it might be the starter motor.... but its functioning fine. Any thoughts from you tecys / more experienced 350z owners? standard 2003 jap import

Christ..... That must have cost a few bob for them! Its not good to hear this, sounds like im gonna be fighting forever to get my ecu light to go out. Im half tempted to install 2 electronic O2 sensor simulators for the rear sensors and be done with it. Apparently only the front 2 sensors determine the fuel / air ratio and have any effect on your engine. In which Nissan fed me a load of Bolo**s saying I needed to get mine fixed quickly to prevent engine damage. If all the rear sensors do is tell you if your saving the environment or not. I'm not interested in spending serious money on it.

Afraid so, makes things even more difficult. When I said I installed a anti-fouler, i meant sensor spacers, I dont know if there is a difference between the 2.

I am in sittingbourne, which is North Kent. I did try purchasing a ODB2 reader but the bloke that sold it to me lied and said it read JOBD when it didnt. If anyone is local and has one to hand I would be appreciative.

Oh ok, in that case I have already performed the ECU reset. I have anti fouler already in place for this sensor. Still have the problem.

Alex, Do you mean clear the cel code by pressing the pedals as well as resetting the battery for 30 minutes?

Ok, My car has a cel reading P0037. This is supposed to be bank 1 sensor 2 failure. I have spent best part of £500 quid getting it diagnosed, replacing the CAT and sensor (because the sensor was stuck in the cat) and getting it all fitted. Got it fitted yesterday, went home, performed the CEL light clearer thingy (by pressing the pedals) and it was gone. Went on a 20 mile drive and it didnt come back. This morning, started the car, bang, straight away it was back. Are the sensors really required? Alot of exhausts come with de-cats, surely it doesn't effect your fuel / air ratio that much if people use these things for years and years. I have no idea what to try next. Help!

Hello, Got into my car this morning after heavy rain yesterday night, and the footwell was very very wet. I had this issue in my GT4 but didnt care about it because it was a 14 year old car, this ones more of a concern because it will rot the floor in my shiny Z. Has anyone else had this? Is this a common problem with 350z's?

So which part do I actually need then? The pipe with the cat on it? I know it goes: Manifold x 2 > Pipe with cat on it (front pipe) x 2 > Y-pipe > backbox. I know there is 2 sensors before the cat on the manifold (one for each side) and 2 sensors on the front pipe after the cat. Im guessing im going to need the pipe including cat.

omg you did didnt you... Sorry, I actually forgot, I only posted this because the dealer called me and it re-activated it inside my head! Sorry!

Hello, Sent my car to the dealers for them to replace a lambda sensor to fix code P0037. They were unable to remove the sensor because it is seized in the exhaust, and said they were not prepared to try and "heat gun" it out because they might warp the thread the sensor screw's into. They said I need a new "front pipe" also known as a "down pipe". They quoted me 850 to source the part and 250 to fit it..... unreal. I'm going to do it myself, but my question is.. What the hell is the front pipe?! I know it goes (from engine): Manifolds, cats, y-pipe, backbox. So I dont understand what they mean by front pipe?!?! Also does anyone know which side bank 1 sensor 2 is? Is it before or after the cat?

Willdo alex, going to dealers tomorrow to pick her up and find out exactly what part they require. I feel like putting a spanner over the sensor and hitting it with a hammer first if I have got nothing to loose!

Hello. My car went to nissan today to get P0037 (o2 sensor faliure bank 1 sensor 2) fixed. They called me to say that they cannot remove the sensor, and that it nearly splits the socket before coming loose, they said it is seized. They can try and "heat gun it out", but the likely hood of the thread warping is very high. They have suggested that I need a new front pipe, I dont want to go through them because I know its going to be something stupid like 4 figures. When they say I need a new front pipe, which part of the exhaust are they refering to? The bit that goes between the cats and the manifold? Does anyone know where I can get one cheap? Like Japspeed?