Tricky-Ricky

I would go with similar to Alex says, you are better of with the wide-band AFR, and if you go for something like this http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motorspor ... /1771/1722 For boost and oil temp, you're pretty much covered, is your 350Z UK or import? (edit, should have read the header more carefully, would have noticed it was UK LOL! anyway it may help others) as if its an import i very much doubt the blutooth device will work, as i have found that there are very few OBD readers that can deal with JOBD, which is what the imports use.

Most of it is pretty much non implementable, for so many reasons, for starters, are they going to pull your car apart to check the wiring, i don't think so! The ECU thing is also virtually impossible, and i can't see the average MOT place wanting to invest in the specialized equipment needed. Lighting wise, there are loads of current cars with HIDs and no leveling and wash options fitted, and just how they are going to implement it with imports Airbag systems are not mandatory, not is the maintenance of them. The EU tests carried out in Holland and Belgium for instance, still allow you to get older and modified vehicles through, and if the UK test is to be based on the EU one then there will still be loop holes.

No not me, I'm on the south cost, dose it have a black roof? if so i know who's it is.

LOL! yeah! i know but the original was a bit tatty, so as i had the blue alcantara lying about, i knocked it up, as it look rather somber in there, will look out for some grey to keep the continuity

I know its not essentially a Z, but its the same under the skin, so i thought i would bung up a couple of pics of the leather Cobra seats i picked up, bit of a pain as i had to fabricate the base adapters from a pair of bases from another car, but they turned out looking pretty good i think. Whether they will be as comfortable as the originals for me (back problem), only time will tell, if there not i will just sell them on.

Interesting comments, ( i have commented on this in the "Dyno results chat thread ", but GT4 Zed, your perception of how the Utec works is fundamentally flawed (no offense) any piggyback device no matter how clever, usually falls down when trying to fudge the closed loop fueling (IE with lambda feedback control) and timing areas of the std ECU closed loop control, which is what Mark is saying. Also cold start is very much a pre mapped temperature controlled area, and nothing to do with open loop. And in the case of the 350 ECU because it has a lot of reference parameters, and can check just how much adjustment it has made in order to adjust fueling and timing, and should this fall outside set amount's, it will re adjust or throw a CEL, thats if my research and my understanding of Marks past comments are correct. A lot of older and in particular turbo ECUs are a lot more friendly to being piggybacked, as they are either not so sophisticated, or in the case of turbo, spend far more time in open loop, and so are far more easily fooled, due to the open loop not relying on lambda feedback, so the ECU does not try to pull fueling etc back to the inbuilt preset maps. The DE/HR ECU spends most of its time in closed loop (IE lambda feedback/control) and so makes tweaking the signals far harder, now you say ahh! but the Utec tweaks the signals after they leave the ECU, but due to the DE/HR ECUs degree of self monitoring, it will negate any outside adjustments made, or throw a CEL as i mentioned in the previous paragraph. I have had a fair bit of experience with piggybacks, and i know how they accomplish the signal tweaks, and as i said in the other thread, unless the Utec is capable of also intercepting the lambda signal and fooling the ECU with a readjusted signal, it has no chance of making more than a very little change to the fueling or timing before the std ECU twig's something is no right. I have yet to find a piggyback that can do this, but as i said it can be done with the right electricary

Hi there mate, (thanks again for the brake thread) Im interested in your statement about the utec unlocking the "true potential" of the car. I have a TT setup and was thinking whether i should take it out and go with uprev or retain it and find an authorised tuner to check it over for me etc. If you have the stock APS TT setup and its running fine why would you want to change it? I take it comes with the Unichip piggyback which is fine. It may not have the other capabilities of UTEC or other more sofisticated piggybacks but it works. However if you mean you actually have the UTEC with your APS TT and you want a fine tune because you have made some changes or plan some upgrades or to run more boost etc then any tuner can remap it. The software to do this is a free download from Turbo XS website. What i meant by unlocking the potential of the car is that putting mods without a remap (eg with Uprev or a piggyback eg UTEC or standalone ECu eg haltech for that matter) is that it does not realise the full gains possible because the factory ECU is self-learning and want to always revert to the OEM tune. With a reflash or an EMS you make the gains that these mods bring and safely. Both systems get you the same objectives in the hands of a good tuner. I mapped my UTEC at Thor racing and had no issues. Abbey is the guru with Uprev and tuning in general so i'm sure he can remap any ECU or piggyback if he has the software as the principles are the same. When you say 'unlock true potential' what do you mean exactly, can you quantify that, what exactly would the utec have over the uprev? As above there is no point comparing both systems as both can realise your tuning goals. the choice depends on you, cost, availability and good tuner. There are small differences how with how these system go about doing the job but it is really not that different in the grand scheme of things your gains will also depend on alot of factors and is too long to try and explain. the main thing is if tune correctly the car will be an improvement over standard and still be reliable. Please dont take offence as thats not my intention, just trying to learn no probs mate. i answered you last questions on the BBK btw is that ok? I find the discussions on whether a piggyback ECU is of any real benefit very interesting, from research and feedback from Mark at Abbey, it seems that the std ECU cannot be easily fooled, due to it having inbuilt comparator parameters, that should any tampering with the input or output signals via a piggyback, take these signals beyond certain limits, it then knows there is a problem and will either reset, or throw a CEL! Knowing just how some Piggyback ECUs achieve the signal fudging, i find it hard to except just how the Utec can achieve what the others cant? as there are certain way that a smart ECU can be fooled, but the precess is very involved, and unless the Utec can actually fudge lambda feedback, then i fail to see it happening. I was also pretty sure that the std ECU is pretty much the same with its timing feedback monitoring, so just how timing changes of more than + or - 3 degrees can be made without the ECU throwing a wobbler i am not sure, but i would like to find out?

No I'm asking £120 for virtually new (about two hours use), but modified decats! you're welcome to get yourself a quote to have the same work done to a set of decats, and see if you can come back with a better quote There was a guy a couple of weeks ago asking more than the the new price for decats here, and he only dropped them to just under the new price and got it! and nobody said a word! funny there is always one who likes to try and screw up other peoples sales At lest with mine you get a bit more for your money!

Sorry fella, get a bit closer to my asking price and i might be tempted, postage will be £10 so I'm not taking £90.

Bump! surprised there is not more interest, very useful for those that want to tune their 350Z, or when fitting a supercharger.

Thought i had already answered this? Anyway, they are not branded, but the come from the US, and i suspect that they come from the same factory that manufactures the Maegan Racing exhausts, they are well made with good welds, I am located in St-Leonards East Sussex.

Edit, sorry double post.

I can take the heat wrapping off if people prefer shiny pipes

After trying these decats for 50 mls i decided that my exhaust was just too loud with decats, so these are now for sale, they are to all intents and purposes new, i have had two extra lambda bosses welded in to take wide-band lambda sensors, and if you don't use them for a wide-band sensor you can just screw the std cat sensor in with no need for spacers to prevent CEL as they are deeper than std. Anyway they cost me £105 posted, and come with gaskets and fittings, the bosses and welding cost another £35, they are also partially heat wrapped, so i want £120 + P&P which i think is fair considering.

Are you running a std exhaust? mine has the HKS style true duel, i had heard that the combination was not to loud, but I'm afraid it was louder than my single turbo Supra, so it had to go, shame as at idle and small throttle openings it was OK, just got very loud on the over run and at large throttle openings. I wouldn't have minded if i was packing 500BHP+ but it just sounds too lairy for the limited power.

Bearing in mind they cost me £105 posted, and now have the extra sensor bosses welded on, which cost another £35, they are also partially wrapped, and have only done 50 mls, make me a sensible offer.

After buying some resonated decats welding in two extra bosses for my wide-band lambdas, and spending half the day fitting them, i have now driven about 50 miles, and my next job will be to remove them They are just too loud for me, OK at idle and cruising around, but as some as you use some serious throttle they are just to much for me, being an old git, i don't really want everybody looking at me like a chav racer, so they have to go. Don't get me wrong there is definitely an improvement in acceleration in general, and noticeable so at 80-90 leptons where it usually feels slightly sluggish to me, So if anyone wants some nearly new resonated decats with extra lambda bosses,(that are long enough to not cause a CEL) including blanking plugs if you don't use them, just drop me a PM.

Its the same peddle mechanism on the 350GT, and i don't have loads of travel, it can be adjusted, to make it more comfortable also if you're having problems getting the right driving position due to steering wheel proximity, you can always use a different wheel and boss, and add a spacer to get the wheel closer to you.

I think thats what i said earlier, i think this is just a question about the peddle travel and position for comfort and feel, some people including me, like to have a fairly direct feel, and in this case a lot of clutch peddles can be adjusted to accommodate a wide range of positions and movement, provided there is still enough travel to fully disengage the clutch, and also not have it partially disengaged, which as said will quickly kill the friction plate.

Yes have adjusted the bite point on my clutch but don't make the mistake of trying to get rid of all the free play, otherwise you will find that the clutch peddle will pump up and you will be left with no play and the chance of the clutch slipping.

Decats no longer wanted, as i have just bought a pair of new resonated decats from an Ebay seller for £90, but i will still be selling the header's.

If the engine had significant blow by, there would be far more actual oil in the can, the reason for the amount will be the fact that you are not using positive crankcase ventilation, and the position of the can, the engine normally produces a lot of vapor, some oil but the majority is water vapor, this would be drawn at idle into the plenum due the the high vacuum and burnt in the combustion process, and at higher RPM/load by the intake pipe breather, which will be subject to more vacuum than the plenum at this point, and in effect takes over from the plenum breather which at this point is doing virtually nothing due to the low depression. If you are concerned about no burning any oil vapor during the combustion process (which as we know can lead to a small amount of det, but is really only a worry in forced induction motors) then i personally would put a sealed catch can between can cover and the plenum breather, and then fit another to the rear cam cover breather, and either run it back the intake piping, or vent to air as before, this configuration should lead to less condensed water in the cans.

I wouldn't be concerned, I'll wager that most of that is condensed water vapor with only a small amount of oil, do you do a lot of short journeys? Even if not, where you have it mounted it will be subject to a lot of cooling ands so the hot vapor from the engine will rapidly condense into water.

I will take this, You have PM.

I will take it! you have PM