Tricky-Ricky

hks knock off rusts, japseye one rusts. I have the HKS knock off, and no rust, i have seen some stainless exhausts that don't have stainless flanges, and so rust, but then i have owned genuine Zigen and HKS exhausts that only had stainless silencer sections and the rest was mild steel, which is rather disappointing in comparison.

I always wonder when i see these comment's, just how many people have actually owned a "cheap ebay exhaust" and how many just jump on the hearsay bandwagon? I have had two so far, one on my Supra for three years with no problems whatsoever, and it still fine with the new owner, and one currently one year old, on my 350GT also with no problems, a lot of these are usually made in the US or Mexico by third party companies, and re-branded for others, i have always found them to be of good quality and with excellent tig machine welding, don't see what the problem is.

At last! it was the Keep Favorite's in win 7 that was causing my problems.

I think some people just pull the fuse,but i am not 100% on whether that actually kills the TC completely? but i prefer to fit a switch to the orange power wire, that way it can be turned back on by flicking the switch and turning the ignition off and on, as the TC is still functioning even with the TC switch off.

A very fair and valid observation Tricky-Ricky wrote: Simple solution, disconnect the orange wire, problem solved the orange wire, is that a joke or a real wire Sorry! a bit flippant, i realise that some people prefer to have the full or part function of the traction control working all the time. Cutting, or fitting a switch to the orange power wire to the yaw sensor will completely disable the traction control. I prefer not to rely on the TC and disable it 98% of the time, in fact i don't think i have actually turned it on since disabling it.

Simple solution, disconnect the orange wire, problem solved

May ultimately save some poor bugger from paying big money for something like the Injen intake, thinking that they will make big gains, only to find it does next to sod all, Since you can buy similar looking intakes for a fraction of the price, but still get the same look and noise

I'm sure there are plenty of owners and newcomer's who would find it an interesting read, and useful tech info, be nice if the was a comprehensive exhaust comparison test to equal the intake one

The whole thread leading up to the tests is here, http://g35driver.com/forums/intake-exha ... sults.html Bit of a long read, but from what i remember he did reset the ECU for each group of runs to get the ECU used to WOT, and only took the last dyno reading, i think he was pretty careful to achieve a fair comparison.

I think possibly the most realistic and practical figure in all of those tests is the average torque gains, as this is what you most likely to notice when changing things, and the spacers seem to indicate this the most.

Yes it seems so, i don't really see any reason to doubt the figures, with the induction design and size (which is the limiting factor as the tube size has a maximum flow, and its not possible to physically flow any more without FI) so the VQ35DE its going to be very hard to actually make any real gains in this area, probably have more impact on the HR engine with two intakes, which is probably why it was modified.

Came across this rather interesting bit of info regarding intake kits, sounds like the guy has gone to a lot of effort to obtain some concrete figures. Have a read. http://xbcustoms.com/Rob/intakedyno.htm

Here is a very interesting little article that i found, that may be of help. http://xbcustoms.com/Rob/intakedyno.htm

I would definitely get yourself a decent oil temp gauge, as its just as important to not cool too much as well, although being mainly track based its not too much of a problem, but on a road car you really don't want to see low oil temps, other wise all the evaporated water vapor and combustion gas buy products stay in suspension if the temps don't get to at least 95-100C.

You had me worried there for a minute, couldn't see any filter LOL! I did wonder at the wisdom of fitting an oil cooler to a non FI road car, but track days would warrant a cooler, out of interest, what sort of temps have you been seeing? As for current fitment, its definitely better, but may still create a hot spot in your rad, but just keep an eye on water temps, there isn't much space for them on the z, not seen mounts like that on a cooler before, and provided there is no twisting force applied to the mounts, either in fitting or in operation it should be OK, although i would still be inclined to use four bits of studding and tubes through the end mounts to brace the whole thing up for safety.

Sorry! have to ask, is there any particular reason for fitting an oil cooler? do you do lots of track days, or have FI? Edit, Also where is your oil filter? cant see it in the pic, just the take off plate, so I'm presuming/hope you have a remote filter?

Nice job, I'm sure oiled paper will be fine if you're against using liquid gasket (there is more than one type), but TBH i can't see a problem, as your unlikely to remove it once fitted. One suggestion about using nylon for the spacers, if you're actually going to market a kit then i would be inclined to go for alloy or steel spacers, as it would stop any possibility of anyone over tightening and causing cracking of the plenum, or the possibility of the nylon splitting and being displaced/falling into the inlet.

I found this chip thing on ebay that gives you and extra 30BHP

It sounds rough because it has lumpy (high lift) cams. LS1 or 2 swap is pretty easy, as you can buy a kit from the states, which comprises of engine mounts, modded sump and drive shaft foe about $1800.

It would have been much more interesting if the G35 was up for a play

If you have both the material and the equipment at your disposal, then go for it, you can either use a gasket of remove your top plenum and use that as a pattern, that way you may be able to come up with a better solution to the internal spacers needed, a spacer can be run without paper gaskets, just liquid gasket like Hylomar or similar, perhaps wellseal if still available, or RTV if used sparingly, only longer bolts are needed. Did wonder about going DIY using a thermo plastic, which could be cut with a jigsaw and then clomped and drilled, but couldn't find the plastic. Never been able to get my head around the pricing for these as once its scanned into cad, its just time and material, must be good profit margins they could with the right material be stamped like gaskets.

I will be interested in the new year, if you want some extra people then i can ask the other Skyline 350GT owners, if they would be interested?, if that OK with you, i will wait for a reply before i mention anything though.

Sorry! did have a look before i posted it, should have known something like that wouldn't be missed

OK So who's going to admit to getting stuck?

You have PM