Tricky-Ricky

Could be down to being faulty, have you checked codes P0340 and P0345.

Check the 15 amp fuse in the engine bay fuse box, but i am not certain that its a dedicated O sensor heater fuse, i thought it supplied the ECU as well, other than that, have you checked the connector's for the O2 sensors?

As i said before there doesn't appear to be that code listed, ( but i am using Skyline 350GT/Infiniti manual, but engine codes should be exactly the same) however it appears to be the collector sensor rather than the cat sensor, and AFAIK they are not interchangeable due to response rate. Are you getting any bad running? IE bad fuel consumption?

The only code i can find for that fault is P0051 which is bank 2 heater circuit, which i think is the right hand side cat sensor, if you have recently had decats fitted, it could be a couple of things, one being that the sensor was knocked/dropped during removal/refitting, or that the decats don't have a long enough O2 sensor boss, or it needs spacers due to overheating the sensors which is common. If you 350Z is JDM then don't panic, as the cat O2 sensors are not used in fuel calculations, i have a wide-band monitor setup fitted to my car in place of the std sensors, it does throw error codes but that all, and although i have the means to erase the codes its not permanent and they will come back if the perceived fault remains.

Very nice fella with the right turbo and management, with the current spec you could squeeze a bit more from that we have a Supra in the UK making over 1100BHP on pump fuel, with similar spec, I guess being a little shorter in the wheelbase than a Supra, i would imagine it can get a little skittish and crossed up if you get to enthusiastic? I must admit i was impressed with the stability of my Skyline 350GT (same but slightly longer wheelbase than the Z) after coming from a single turboed Supra, but the Supra had the handling edge despite being a much older design.

As per my edited post above, my apologies, the P0335 code is CPS, have you checked the power side of the sensor on pin 1, this gets a power feed from the IPDM, although you say it has run using the original sensor, so unlikely. You can check coil pack by resistance, and also swapping over and see if the miss follows it, but the easy way is with NDS software, you can run an active test and switch off each coil in turn and see if there is any difference, that way its easy to isolate.

Knock sensor what?? yes that have one, sensor fault is P0327 and P0328.

Edit: Apologies P0335 is not a cylinder 5 misfire code, and is CPS, should have been wearing my glasses The two in the front are the electronic trigger valves for the VVTI (not sensors) CPS is on case near flywheel. Don't know about a sensor under throttle body, unless your thinking of one of the two cam position sensors? Here is a diagram of engine control and sensors.

The rev up engine is easy to spot, both cams are VVTI, so there will be two cam actuators on each side of the engine, and yes this would cause running problems if the ECU was not intended for it, and i am pretty sure the rev up also runs wide-band lambdas.

basically it wouldn't be able to control the fueling correctly, as the lambda feedback voltage it expects to see would be wrong.

I doubt its down to anything flywheel related, as it has worked with another sensor, i suspect the sensor, i don't know for certain, but i would imagine they are a hall effect sensor, and so rely on the metal teeth on the flywheel to trigger a signal, so wouldn't be much effected by dust dirt etc.

Don't know about the colour I'm afraid, but if you know somebody with the Nissan Datascan software and lead, that will tell you the ECU type and number, failing that drop Mark at Abbey motorsport your VIN number and he should be able to tell you.

Are the numbers on the outside of the unit? normally you would need to interrogate the ECU or cross reference the VIN number to find out which ECU type you have.

I think you will find that the UK ECU will be incompatible, if i remember rightly all the UK cars run wide-band lambda setup, IE tighter and more precise fueling control, while the JDM doesn't.

The pre-2006 DE engine dates back to 1994 and was never intended for high-revving sports cars... Torque drops like a stone above 5.5k rpm. Later engines are better but they can't hide the original design/purpose. Actually the VQ35DE only dates back to 2000, but the basic design is carried on from the VQ20DE from 1994, but there are quite a few refinements, however thats no excuse, but your right most V motors are not designed for high RPM.

I think its a case of what your used to, i find mine a little harsh after 5,000 RPM, especially in comparison with my old Supra, but i am pretty sure thats the nature of the VQ35DE, seen it commented on so may times, apparently the HR is way smoother.

Cant believe this one is still going, maybe the sensible option with fuel is, if in doubt play it safe, whats paying a few more pence a liter, compared to the risk of an engine rebuild, a no brainier in my books. If your 350Z is a daily driver, sure it will cost you more, but hay if you can afford to run a 350Z as a daily

Sorry can't agree that it comes solely from the splines or the hub/shaft interface, like i said the first point being that the hub should be clamped firm enough by the hub nut to prevent any movement, ( you dont torque the hub nut to 152 to 205 ftlb for nothing) and the second being that there should never be enough movement between the shaft and the hub splines to make any noise, in the first place. Nissan just like any other car manufactures make **** ups, either due to their own over-site, or other third party supplier's **** ups, so recalls are common, the clicky axle problem not only affects the JDM, UK and US 350Z, it also affects the JDM Skyline 350GT, and the Infiniti G35, as they use the same running gear, i suspect with that amount of global clicky axle problems, they would have been somewhat diligent in finding the correct cause. I had the click on my Skyline 350GT, and acquired a replacement stock joint and fitted it,(with no grease on the splines) result no more noise. I will be interested to know how many people this helps (discounting the US) and if it works for more than a couple of hundred miles.

While i am glad this has seemed to work for some, i fail to see just how, since the purpose of the splines is the provide a load spreading drive to the hubs, which relies on a non interference but close fit, however the purpose of the hub nut is to clamp the hub to the CV joint very securely to prevent any movement, IMO the only reason that these splines would cause the click, is down to either improperly torqued hub nuts from the factory/or being loosened by a third party, or badly speced spline fit in the first place, there should be no movement, so adding grease may help quieten the noise, but only if there is movement allowed, when there really shouldn't be any. IMO it could well be just a case of going through the motions, and the resulting re torueing of the hub nut has actually solved the problem. What you also need to remember is that there are actually two other sets of un clamped spline drives on each drive shaft just held in location by a circlip, one on the inner CV joint and one on the outer that are also capable of making a noise if worn, and thats besides the actual CV joints themselves. Pretty much all cars use this system both FWD and RWD, without problems ,and the classic symptom of a worn CV joint is clicking on pull away or slow maneuvering.

I have always used some form of lubrication on plug threads, as i have seen the result of putting them in dry, and then not removing them for 10-20K, and its a pain having to helicoil plug threads.

I have used copper slip before without problems, but i normally just use a drop of engine oil, or HMP grease on the threads.

I'll keep tuned into this thread, as i would like to hear about the diesel Civic , been thinking of one of these along with Leon FR, and possibly the Volvo C30 R design, as replacement for my 350GT when it goes. Whats the FR TDI like to live with Dave?

If your engine is healthy, thats all you really need, but like i said make sure you get one that seals, or can be made to seal OK, mine is just an ebay copy, i just added a silicone seal to the top and bottom joints. My car seems to run ok, anyway I could tell its not super healthy? I take it the little connectors with jubilee clips wont make a great seal? Silicone sealent? like the stuff you use in your kitchen? The right sized jubilee clips will be fine for pipework, and yes you can use kitchen type silicone sealant for the can but it does break down eventually as its not designed to be used with oil, there are silicones that are intended for motors though.

If your engine is healthy, thats all you really need, but like i said make sure you get one that seals, or can be made to seal OK, mine is just an ebay copy, i just added a silicone seal to the top and bottom joints.

Seems to me there is a little confusion over how the PCV system works, both the drivers side that comes from the cam cover to the plenum, and the passenger side that also comes from the cam cover to the intake are both part of the PCV system, but they work in different ways. The drivers side is whats known as the idle/low throttle breather, in that this is the one that will cause the unwanted oil reside in the plenum and to a degree in the throttle body, as the VQ draws a lot of oil vapor from the cam cover/engine due to the high vacuum at idle/low throttle, this has a non return valve in between. The passenger side is what is known as the full throttle breather, and works by the vacuum generated by the intake airflow across the tube fitted at right angles to the intake, this one does not require a non return valve, and also generates less vacuum than the other. If you fit a catch tank, the best and most efficient option is to just fit it between the drivers side cam cover and the plenum leaving the non return valve in place, the length of the pipework and the tank should be enough to cause all the oil vapor to drop out before returning to the plenum, but as mentioned you can if it doesn't do the job due to say a worn engine etc, fill the can with stainless scourer's, but its important that the tank i 100% sealed or you will have idle problems. Linking the drivers side and the passenger side to the same catch can can cause idle problems too, unless the passenger side is jetted to reduce the amount of air thats drawn in. I have run a breather on just the drivers side for nearly tow years now and both my throttle body and plenum are spotless. PS Just a note on the effects of oil vapor affecting AFRs, it will actually have no effect on the actual AFRs and in any case the ECU will compensate if the lambda feedback will deal with fueling trim if needed, unless there is a considerable amount of oil going in, and it goes beyond its limits. Yes it true that a lot of oil vapor can lower the combusted fuel octane, which can lead to detonation, but this although can happen in extreme cases, is not a problem with N/A engines (with the exception of race engines) It can however be a problem with FI engines, as the combination of critical fueling and timing needed to ensure detonation doesn't take place with pressurised induction can be effected by amounts of oil vapor decreasing the knock rating of the fuel.