Tricky-Ricky

Now on Ebay, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Innovate-LM-2-Wideband-Dual-Full-kit-/290796044577?

Me too! great tuning/monitoring tool, wouldn't use anything else, thought there would be more interest being a dual kit and perfect for V engines.

Me too! wouldn't use anything else, great tuning/monitor tool.

Phormula KS-4 knock analyzer,(labeled KS-3, but is a KS-4) configurable to suit your engine type/size, will alert you to knock both visually and audible, have 0-5v data log output, and also has a trigger which can be used for ultra brite LED, or other alarm or fed to an ECU etc, more info here,http://www.phormula.co.uk/support/KS4-Instructions.pdf About 1 k mls use, £220 + P&P + 3.4% Paypal, to you guys, £240 ebay.

LM-2 full dual wideband kit, comes with everything, two sensors, ideal for those with V 12, 8, 6, OBD2 etc etc, does full data logging, and can display various engine parameters, full details here, http://www.innovatem...roducts/lm2.php as new very little use, about 1k mls complete with hard case, These go for £400 to 550 new! £300 +P&P. Paypal please add 3.4%.

The only serious engine problem the VQ has is ..................................... its thirst!

Nearly all 2001 on Nissan's use CANbus, as do most other brands, but thats just the data transmission designation, if your car is UK you shouldn't have too much trouble with basic codes, but not interrogation. If your car is JDM then you will have more of a problem, as they use JOBD rather than OBD.

Unfortunately that info is not all correct, as the JDM cars to my knowledge never got the (CVTCS) system with the 298BHP engine, this only went to the USDM G35, so don;t waste your time trying to find one in the UK. Like i said all the other bits are options and like a lot of JDM car manufactures, they where very much a mix & match, as you can order virtually any combination form Japanese manufactures

Thanks fella i am obviously not pushy enough. Is that still for sale Yes! not really been trying too hard, along with changing my mind a few times, only ever put it up on Pistonheads once, other than that just advertised on a couple of forums, and a swap site.

I assume the paddle shift offers nothing more than the auto would offer anyway? ie: The auto can be controleld in the same way from the gear lever moving up/down gears? The paddle shift is an aftermarket kit, but yes they have tiptronic operated from the shifter.

Wondered when you would be along to defend the autos sai

Thanks fella i am obviously not pushy enough.

The premium pack designation is a bit of a fallacy, as the trim options are always a bit of a mix and match, it should include the Bose stereo system (later models often have a mini disc player as well) and leather & alcantara seats, but i have seen these in all sorts of combinations, so don't think that if its marked as "premium pack" it will always have these options. The majority of cars are only auto, manuals are rare, the manuals all have brembo brakes, and the autos non Brembo, but very occasionally you will find an auto with Brembos, but again this is an option. The auto box is apparently very good, heard no complaints yet, but it depends on your preference, personally i cant see the point in buying a sports coupe with an auto box.

A lesson learned when i drove something that was capable of embarrassing some super cars, there will always be something out there that its faster and better driven, and sods law says you will probably meet it

Sorted mine and a couple of others out over a year ago now, and they are still going strong

There is a fix to get the fan motors working again

The slave cylinder is under the car attached to the side of the bell housing, there is a bleed nipple there, you just need to make sure that the reservoir is always filed, crack the nipple using a piece of tube into a jar, and just pump the fluid through, while keeping an eye on the reservoir and topping it up, once flushed through then treat like brake bleeding. Not sue i agree with the stats stated in that write up, but regardless you do need a small amount of play, ( i removed my ASCD switch and the helper spring altogether) and use the upper stop adjustment to get the pedal hight i want, and then use the master cylinder shaft and turnbuckle/clevis to get the right amount of free play, but the difficult bit is keeping the right amount of free play when hot which is the main problem, this is part of the reason for my clutch pedal modification, it actually increases the clutch engagement window, and makes it far more easy to control the amount of movement that takes place, like i said the clutch arrangement is crap IMO.

Good q wouldn't know might look at that too... just follow the manual for that or any tips? I would first give it a good bleed and refresh with fluid, and then make sure you have about 1/2" of free play before you start to get any real pressure in the pedal, re adjust by slackening the lock nut at the back of the clevis that attachés to the pedal, take it for a drive and get it hot and then check again, you may find that there is no free play (i think the reason is down to the whole std system is badly sized and suffers badly from transmitted heat) Anyway thats my theory as i have flushed and re bled the system several time and still suffer from this, however have a look here, viewtopic.php?f=9&t=57546 and it may help, If you find there is no play after its hot, re adjust, but don't over do it as you then may suffer bad engagement when cold, my clutch mod made a big difference to this problem.

Are you sure the clutch pedal is adjusted properly? can cause all kinds of weird engage/disengage problems if not.

Two questions, who was at fault, and who admitted it? What you do and where you go from there will ultimately decide how cheap the repair.

Using 15W50 in theory you should be seeing slightly higher oil pressure, however as said there will be a slight difference with different makes of oils. You should also consider that the sensor and/or the gauger is not reading that accurately, i know for a fact that sensors can degrade as the work on resistance, i have seen it happen on other cars, i always fit a decent aftermarket gauger/sensor and never completely rely on factory. White smoke is indeed water vapor, and cats will hide minor oil burning when hot, like i said get yourself to a garage that can conduct a leak-down test properly, that will give you a much better idea of just how efficiently the engine is performing.

You need a leak-down test, a compression test will only give an indication, of just that compression, it will not differentiate between losses from ring/bore seal and valves. What oil are you currently using?

Glad you finally got to the bottom of the problem fella

I would be interested to see what you got for sale.... Here you go, PM also replied. viewtopic.php?f=32&t=57078&p=825523#p825523

That would be me, but mine is manual and not cheap, however if you want some info, your welcome to ask me, and also pop over here http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/foru ... .php?f=220 The JDM Skyline 350GT was developed before the 350Z, and apart from the bodywork, the two extra seats and a very usable boot, are identical to the the JDM 350Z, same engine, chassis, brakes and suspension etc. The auto is supposed to be very good, however non of the autos got the Brembo brakes, unless as a special option, not seen one yet, other than that they are just 9" longer in wheelbase and about 30-50KG heavier, but can still pull a 6.2 second 0-60.