Tricky-Ricky

We are all experts here I would start it up move it and turn it off again, dammed if I would let it idle or take it for a drive, I think the amount of times that its done would hardly take thousands of miles of it life span, besides as I have said before we seldom keep our cars long enough to worry what happens to it in a few years time

Leaving an engine to idle will not cause bore wash unless you have something severely wrong with your fueling.

Oh and a couple more of the knives. Recent. Older

Thanks for the positive comment guys, managed to find some pics of my old S13 and S14, please remember that this was a few years back and styles have changed somewhat S13 S14 And a couple more of the Supra as requested.

I used to collect a few and then decided to have a go at making them, done a few now, I'll dig some more pics out, mine are made from scratch, just cut from a piece of stainless and then shaped by grinder and file, I don't have the facilities to temper them, but they are made from pretty hard stainless so they hold an edge pretty well, bolsters are brass, and the handles are exotic hard woods, but unfortunately I lost the labels that I had it marked up with, an old friend gave me loads of assorted types.

Found a couple more of my old bikes for those that may be interested, Found an old video of my supra in action, sorry about the video quality, just turn the sound up Pic of one of my hobby's, making knives.

Bought one recently and its a fresh install/license, you use the code that comes with the disk and its then verified on line by Microsoft.

You can actually run with the cat monitor lambdas removed even without up-rev, you will get cel but that's it, I replaced mine with wide-band sensors.

No sensor on the flywheel fella, Nissan should be able to tell which sensor is out, I certainly could with the software I had, and its not hard to test if there is doubt, I would say take it to another Nissan or independent place.

Agreed! presuming they have read the error code/s they should know which is giving a problem, that sounds like a lucky dip approach. Apart from the fact that the timing chain is designed to last the life of the engine, and the flywheel is at the other end of the motor, so quite how they have come to that diagnosis I don't know, take it to a garage that knows what there doing.

Funny that as I used the little "image" tag that's at the top of each page and I have use plenty of times before yet I ended up with the results above!That why I asked! but thanks 350Ad :)Edit, sorted finally, never had so much trouble with inserting images before.

Why are the images not showing up? I used the usual auto image tags??

Thought I would post up some of my old car pics, think I did some time ago but a lot of the older content seems to have gone. My old Supra when I first got it, After I did a bit of work on it. Err A little more, And my GT350 when I first got it. And after a bit of adjustment. One of my many old bikes, I will try and find some pics of my old S13 and S14.

I seem to remember posting a comment about this, but it seems to have been removed, cant really see how saying that I may have had a similar reaction to a drunk banging on and damaging my car as being particularly bad, perhaps admin can explain?

2JZGTE is 594lbs 320BHP 300ftlbs VQ35DE is 380lbs 273BHP 238ftlbs RB26DETT is 573lbs 310bhp 260ftlbs LS1 is 497lbs 405BHP 400ftlbs But you have to remember the gearbox weight, both the 2JZ and the RB run a six speed Getrag box so they are pretty heavy, The LS1 is going to shift the car quicker (gear ratios being the same for each engine) due to the torque figure and overall weight as the torque is almost double that of the VQ.

The 2JZGTE didn't go VVTi until 98 and only continued until 2000, it did give a better torque spread but not a big increase, I think around 28ftlb, the main reason the 2JZGTE is so good is down to the sequential turbo system, no 1 spins up and is making usable boost at just 1500RPM. But most people end up fitting a 30 or 40 series turbo so it can become a bit of an animal if tuned incorrectly, but a lot of fun. Just for instance a friend had an R32 with a 600BHP RB26, and he spent more time off the road due to engine problems than my Supra, and I kitted and resprayed mine and tuned and fitted a single turbo.

The 2JZ is a great and strong motor, but in the end it will only make similar power to the RB26 but I have seen them make 7-800BHP on an unopened motor as opposed to the RB needing forged internals after 5-600BHP. The also make a good bit more torque at lower RPM than the RBs and red-line at 6.5K rather than 8.5K so there great for a heavier car, But I still think given the choice I would go for an LS motor, you could always run a SC or turbo later for fun,

Yes the RB26 is a bit on the expensive side to tune, also a little high strung when pushed above 600BHP, although they can be pushed to 1000BHP+ it takes a big budget, I would go for an LS series motor any day, they are ideal for the Z and 350GT, they are both relatively heavy cars and the LS will produce a nice low RPM and fairly flat torque curve, which is what you want for good acceleration, remember BHP is how fast you go, torque is how fast you get there.

Apart from the injector and general lifter noise, it sounds like a lazy lifter to me, the frequency is half engine speed, Edit, LOL! forgot they are non hydraulic followers, so yes could well be wear/too large clearance.

Nothing wrong with 10W40, ran my VQ on it, a lot of the advocated 30W oils that the manufactures state are mainly down to emissions control, and as said we don't see the climate to need 5W.

Very nice fella! I too have a history with bikes and cars, used to build a lot of custom bikes, and then when I couldn't ride any more due to health, I switched to big power Japanese cars.

I am pretty sure that idle relearn also clears short term fuel and timing trim, so you will notice a difference if you have been doing say commuting for the last few days, or running lower octane fuel, the ECU will adjust the trims to suite how you drive, so clearing them will often be noticed.

Only noticeable if you have grounding issues, IE corroded earth points, you can achieve the same results by going around the engine bay and cleaning all earth points up.

The DRLs you see on Audi and other makes have to dim when the side/headlights are switched on. So unless your aftermarket DRLs do this thay are illegal.

You can either find a spare power feed in the fuse box, or take a feed from the battery with a 5 amp fuse in line to the switch in the cabin, and use use a nearby earth point, don't forget you need to have them switched independent to the the side lights as DRLs are required by law to switch off when the light are on.