Tricky-Ricky

Are you absolutely certain that you have backed the clutch master cylinder to peddle adjustment off enough? there should be a bit of free play before you feel resistance , I would back it all the way off before bleeding as you can easily have one of the cylinder holes covered which prevents proper bleeding.

Oil control ring problems wont normally show up on a compression test, however I would try a leak-down test and see if that will reveal anything more.

You have to remember its a heavy Car and the makers quoted 0-60 figures are achieved under the best possible conditions by test drivers, so your unlikely to be able to achieve the same under normal road conditions, there are also a lot of of more modern lighter cars out there than can better this.

Glad you got it fixed OK, who did the work, the garage the diagnosed it?

Unless you know what your doing I would leave it be as you could interfear with the ECUs ability to pick up genuine knock/det, Why not just get yourself Nissan Datascan Software and Cable, this will show any knock, or if you have need of some serious det monitoring get Phormula KS-4. Are you going FI ?

As you can see the manual refers to the left and right sensors as bank 1 and 2, but sensor 1 is the cat monitor, and sensor 2 is the primary hence my comment.

Bank 2 O2 sensors are primarily used for cat monitoring and not fueling, bank 1 is the primary O2 sensors, you would need to monitor the sensor voltages through diagnostics to see if you have any problems, but if your not getting any codes flagged it makes things a little more difficult.

Of course the easy option to increase acceleration is to change the gearing

Planting the throttle at 2K RPM in too high a gear is always going to show some anomalous AFM voltages, basically because your suddenly trying to load the engine in a way its normally not expecting or tuned for, not a good practice in my book.

Good stuff, and invaluable when engine building, you just select the applicable strip and lay it on the bearing surface and then just tweak the con rod, bearing cap etc and check with the gauge,.No good for bores though.

TBH I think unless your going to have it remapped you wont really be happy, and even then the difference is so vast, but if your happy with the drive and can get around the performance difference it should be OK. I know just what you mean about modern diesels, I am currently driving a Civic 2.2 turbo diesel, and in some areas its just as quick as the 350GT, I can probably drive it quicker on B roads, its only about 2 seconds slower to 60 that the GT, and the bonus is I get 40- 60MPG easy.

Step, no wait run away from the so called Nissan mechanic! Have you checked to make sure both rad fans run when its on hot idle? a failed fan motor is a common problem and will lead to overheat at idle or slow moveing traffic, you can check the second fan is working by switching on the aircon, if its not you have found your problem. I think I have a spare fan motor knocking about somewhere from when I used to offer a repair service for them, that I may sell if you need one.

If he's trying to equate the driving experience to the GTR its not so surprising, I got similar fuel consumption from my 350GT when I sold my Supra.

LOL! Graham, hardly surprising the GTR is one of the quickest accelerating cars out there, comparing it to whats quite frankly a mid range GT car is going to leave you feeling a little lacking by comparison.

So no error codes until you disconnected the AFM? if cam chain was stretched enough, or the tensioner was dead, for the cam timing to be 10deg out you would definitely be hearing it as mechanical noise, as said take it to someone who knows the engine.

I had similar when only one of my fans was working was fine at road speeds but overheated when at idle. The engine relies heavily on the the fans when at hot idle, or in slow traffic.

Running larger injectors can affect idle stability, larger injectors are more prone to bad atomisation at idle due to the size of the pintle opening having to be larger, and some ECU have more trouble controlling them, you can get around it by increasing fuel pressure but its not the ideal way, that why I suggested not going too large with injectors if your only running 4-450BHP.

The trouble is what your looking for will be a compromise as to increase torque at lower RPM will require a totally different profile, and will likely be at the expense of higher RPM power, that is the whole point of the std VVTI on the inlet cams.Generally speaking higher lift and duration cams will always push the peak torque and power further up the RPM range. As for drive train the flywheel wont affect that, you will need things like a carbon fiber prop shaft, and reduce drive shaft and pinion gear weight, however it will be expensive, also a different type of diff will not necessarily make any difference other than type, I thought all Zs came with LSD of some type anyway?

Lot of misguided oil snobbery here, nothing wrong with the Halfords/comma oils, as long as the API rating and viscosity is correct, it will be fine, the manufactures recommendation goes by API rating not make.

I have to say that £ fuel to performance the DE is THE most fuel inefficient motor I have ever owned.

I would forget the Turbo XS ECU, I looked into them when considering self tuning my DE, I don't think much of the features, If your going to lave the engine for now then a basic SC kit, but with a decent stand alone ECU if considering going further at a later date, I really wouldn't use one of the signal fudgers or fuel systems that come with the Vortec kits, personally I think they are not good for engine longevity, if you put a kit together yourself you will then have all the underpinnings for adding more power at a later date, you can quite easily get 380WHP with a SC, I would save going turbo or running higher pressures for when the engine has been fully forged and re built.

Thanks for your advice tricky, I'll look in to all those things. I don't want to go massive on power but I have a rough figure of 450whp, which I think is achievable without compromising drive ability. I'll definitely look in to stand alone ecu. Just so I am sure, is a stand alone ecu the same as Fuel Management Unit, or is there a difference? Luke If your aiming for 450BHP at the wheels then you will need around 500=520BHP at the flywheel, so 600-650cc injectors, and go forged pistons and uprated rods/bolts etc, to get the best torque curve you will very likely have to use some more suitable cams, (talk to Mark at abbey or Jez at HD for recommendations) obviously you will need a flywheel and clutch to cope with the extra power. No! a stand alone ECU will deal with all engine related control, By fuel management unit I suspect you have been reading about the units/kit that comes with the basic vortech SC conversions, personally I would steer well clear of them, as they are just signal fudger and a not ideal fuel system upgrade, you are far better of fitting a decent fuel pump along with the rising rate fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail to suite the injectors and a proper fuel return system.

Personally I would first decide how much power you want to run, then I would at a minimum fit uprated rods and pistons whether going SC or turbo, next an uprated fuel system with rising rate FPR and a proper return system, size your injectors by the power you intend running and then add 1-200cc for headroom, remember that going to large will lead to bad idling especially if you uprate cams which if going for higher pressures you will need. I would definitely use a stand alone ECU like Link or Syvecs, as although Up-rev is OK it still retains the rather poor knock detection and thresholds, besides you want some form of extra safety features when going FI, I would also look at a bigger rad and an oil cooler, also fit a decent oil pressure gauge, boost, AFR and EGT gauge if you want to keep a track of things.

Nothing wrong with 10W40.

Its rather annoying to think that Toyota's 2JZ had a low oil level light as well as the dipstick back in the early 90s.