Tricky-Ricky

I just found it disappointing in comparison with the first film, par for the course i guess.

May have been the high point of the film

You mean by the two hour response time...........

Quick video of the Lancasters, https://www.flickr.com/photos/108728175@N06/14807130458/

I know there are some here that appreciate old aircraft, so here are a couple of pics that i took today, not great as i don't have ££££ to spare on a daft size lens:) but there are more on my photo-bucket if you want to look.

I host the manual for the Skyline forum here http://www.dropbox.com/sh/zegqgypzmov5jkd/BFv-QdweDX/New%20folder Hopefully this should help.

Actually thats incorrect, the alternator output volts wise will rise and fall depending on the battery's state of charge, if the battery is fully charged the voltage output will be regulated down, so watching a volt meter will not always give the expected reading.

Not quite sure i would agree with some of the recommendation's in that thread, the idle/low throttle side of the PCV system (the one with the one way valve)can be junked in most cases when going FI, as all it does is to draw a lot of oil vapor into the plenum (due to the very high vacuum generated at idle/low throttle) and pool oil in the low points of the plenum and then burn it on the first large throttle opening, not good on FI as it can lead to a sudden lowering of fuel octane due to excess hydrocarbons from the burnt oil, which can result in det. The same happens with the N/A but its a somewhat lesser lesser risk as there is no boost pressure to add to the equation, so less chance of det, but still not desirable, which is why most people go for fitting a sealed catch can to this side of the PCV system to help eliminate the oil. Its still desirable/beneficial to utelise the PCV system as it helps with ring/bore seal and to a smaller existent with stopping oil seal weep because its causes a slight vacuum in the crankcase, The other side of the PCV system is the high load/full throttle side which is much more effective in helping with ring/bore seal etc when going FI as rather than as suggested be allowed to be vented to atmospheric air, it should be plumbed back into the turbo/supercharger intake which provides a good vacuum effect, obviously via a catch can to prevent extra oil contamination.

Sounds to me like you have an O2 sensor gone faulty.

What i suspect that your noticing is as already explained when the throttle is shut for a pre determined amount of time the fuel injectors are also off, IE not supplying fuel, but its also depends on RPM and because you going down hill the RPMs will rise beyond the the threshold with the road speed and kick in again, and i suspect thats what your experiencing.

Still think the title is slightly wrong! and more like something you would ask the wife or girlfriend... :lol:

The std recommended plugs are the platinum, but there is no problem using the equivalent iridium, or copper core for that matter, it just a question of service life, i always use copper because i like to pull my plugs every few thousand miles , that way i get to see how the engine is running first hand and not through a CEL

What a pleasant person you are....NOT!

Now we are getting close to proper bikes

If you think about it logically fixed speed cameras would not be legal as it doesn't have an operator, so could be argued that its not a police officer.

Tell him to sell it and buy the 2.2 desel... add a bigger turbo, remap and clutch and he will have over 250BHP and nearly 450ftlbs torque and as a bonus 50-60mpg, and will easily out accelerate a type R up to about 100mph.

Or you can go for a platinum set for about £20, or copper core for half that, the only difference being how often you want to change them.

Sorry they are heated full time as the EGTs are no constant and the sensor need an constant temp to work correctly, but your right about any performance change as the cat monitors do just that, they don't contribute to closed loop running, its only the first bank of O2 sensors that do.

Yes thats all they are, ran mine with them removed and Innovate wide-band LM2 in there, just ignored the cel, but had a live monitor device so anything else failed i would know.

LOL! reminds me of when we moved, i think we spent in excess of £100 on boxes.... still have nightmares about it...we had over 150 of them

An empty alloy can will still effectively remove a large proportion of oil vapor due to the void causing drop out, although using a baffle or stainless steel scourers will be slightly better.

Having come from a similar car 480bhp supra In all honesty the 350z (thats with TC off) is well behaved compared to the Supra... Supra was in constant argument about which end of the car wanted to be infront of the other! The Supra in the wet was just something else........ its like a psychopath in the bushes, just waiting for the right moment to jump out and kill you! Sorry Graham, have to disagree on that one, in comparison to what your describing mine was very well behaved and dint often brake away without provocation even at 540BHP and nearly as much torque, i drove it hard in all kinds of weather too.... mind you i can remember a lot of posts on the Supra forum about Supras stepping out all over the place, but it was usually down to bad alignment and/or tyres.

Any can that has two outlets and is or can be sealed will do the job, there is nothing special about them, the Rutland one is just an over priced oil separator for small spraying equipment or similar and can be bought for less than half that price from most spray equipment suppliers.

That sounds like there is a problem with the PCV system.

De-catting an/or fitting a different exhaust will often result in a noticeable change in torque, resetting the ECU just needs the battery disconnecting for a second or two, and only the short term fuel and timing trim is reset, it can make a small difference but unlikely it will compensate.