Tricky-Ricky

I think you misunderstand, I meant if you add a small amount of oil to each cylinder, and conduct the test again you could end up with a different reading because oil will help ring seal, so if its a bad valve seal the reading for those cylinders will remain low.

If you want more power IE going FI then your best off going for forged pistons a re-bore, some decent con rods (weak point) and associated bolts etc, and if your doing a complete rebuild then add a thicker head gasket so you can run a bit more boost.

P01217 relates to engine over temp , however the control system is assessed by engine RPM, road speed, coolant temp and air con switch and pressure, and in turn controlled by the IDPM and fan switch relays, but as said will most likely be down to the fan motors, so if only one is not working it can be removed and cleaned/refurbed which is fine if you want a cheap fix, or replaced with SH £60, or new, which is in the region of £200+ ,or replace with the aftermarket fan setup.

Happened with mine an it wasn't a bad overheat, its because the coolant temp sensor is part of the CAN system so it registers a EML when the temp threshold is crossed, usually throws P0128 temp sensor related even though its can be just a faulty sensor.

If the engine/coolant overheats then you will get an EML.

Actually the fan will not come on until the engine is up to normal temp, but to test wait until up to temp and switch on the air-con, they should both come on if its only one you will know which is faulty, if its both well its both.

The main reason for the rev-up engine having compression problems after fairly small mileages is simply down to a bad choice of piston rings by Nissan, if you rebuild with some decent rings you should be fine.

Definitely! mind you was oil added to a second test? otherwise it could be down to bad valve seal.

If it helps here is a little write up with a link that i did for the Skyline forum to help with explaining how PCV systems work, and how to use a catch can to the best advantage, you can safely apply this to a supercharger setup as well. Catch Tanks, & PCV Systems. I felt the need to write this up due to people thinking that there is only the one way to plumb in and use a catch tank, first it may help some to have a read of this, http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h63.pdf which will explain the basics to those that don't already know. Now the whole reason that a lot of people fit a catch tank is to try and eliminate some of the oil that gets drawn into the intake system and not only lowers the octane rating of the fuel, (which is undesirable on turbocharged engines) but also gum up throttle bodies, IC pipes and idle valves etc. Now the PCV system of most turbo engines consists of a part throttle breather which has a one way valve that is open during idle and off boost conditions, so the vacuum of the engine can draw any oil vapor thats formed through engine motion and combustion, into the inlet and is burnt in the combustion process. This valve is usually plumbed into the plenum, and is vented from the cam covers. Now as soon as there is positive intake pressure (boost) this valve closes to prevent loss of pressure, and a second breather which is also from the cam cover and has no valve, takes over the breathing, but this is plumbed into the intake before the turbo, so there is useually only a sufficient depression when there is boost pressure being made. Hopefully this will give you the general idea of it function, so when it comes to fitting a catch tank, most just block off the non return valve into the plenum, and then fit an extension pipe to the full throttle breather to the catch tank, and then leave the other opening vented to atmosphere, which is fine in most cases, and will achieve the desired effect, however some engines do play up when using this form of venting, but it gets a bit more involved than i want to go into here. But there is a second way of achieving the same effect, but still using the factory PCV system with a catch tank, This basically consists of linking both the full and part throttle breathers together, and running them to the catch tank, then linking the second hose from the tank back to the turbo inlet piping, so the same vacuum is applied through the tank to the cam covers when there is sufficient depression, but in this case the oil vapor is still re emulsified into the tank instead of getting drawn into the intake system, ( it helps to fill the catch tank with stainless scouring pads) to aid oil drop out, and with this method you will tend to see less water accumulation too. So you see there is more than one way to plumb and use a catch tank. There is also a way of using the exhaust as a PCV system, which i can go into if anyone is interested. __________________

*dont know if serious* I do hope not!

Was this your own idea or to be accredited to a garage technician? if so can we have there name so we can add them the the avoid list.... And can you explain to me just how removing carbon deposit and adding paint to replicate that carbon build up, instead of properly resetting the throttle is a fix ? and how did you measure the paint thickness? Still bodge of the year in my book I'm afraid.

Give it a big hug if your that way inclined....otherwise it might pine.

Well i did wonder when i read this line....."After many ideas and some time with diagnostic machines....." But its good for a laugh anyway.

Definitely from the Homer Simpson school of bodgeing... Maybe we should have a bodge of the year section.....i nominate this one

Painting the inside of the TB... Might just as well left the carbon, i have heard of some bodges but that definitely up there with them.

Sounds like a rod bearing failed to me.

Just buy a dildo gear knob to complete the picture and go with it...

Loki was not named after the Norse god of mischief for nothing...

You need a car with attitude to carry off a BGW.....i think that just about qualifies.

Nice and it still has my old spoiler by the looks Unfortunately that pic is a few years old, although it still has the kit, and the spoiler, i loved that! looked really good from some angles, but not to some peoples taste i guess, some cars suit BGWs some don't. I managed to get an email from the new German owner via one of the German guys on the Supra club, and it sounds like he is really going to town on it IE drag spec etc but i have heard nothing for a while now, but at least its still in one piece.

This one...no contest!

Nice job! be interested to hear how it works out, will keep an eye on your project thread.

Yes one stage colder...i presume your going forced induction then?

I really cant see changing a Y pipe making enough difference to worry about, the difference in flow rate will be absolutely minimal.

We originally had two GSDs and two Collies and two cats, then we bread Siamese cats and had 11 of them! Now we only have two remaining Siamese cats and one very clever moggy who we rescued from the street, and a pond full of fish/koi and one remaining tank of Malawi cichlids , anyway here are some pics. Edit: now the editor has mixed the pic order up! first pic is of the latest Koi pond, next pic is Loki in the front, now nearly 18 .Next pic the black bugger is Mylo who thinks he is a dog.. he follows me everywhere, will run up and down the garden like a daft dog, and will come to a whistle, next two are the Malawi cichlids, and last but no least is Odo who is now 15.