Tricky-Ricky

To wind up and get abused by youngsters....mission accomplished! Bought a Nissan Skyline 350GT and wanted to research parts compatibility etc.

As long as you don't granny shift as well you will be fine

Very lucky...but its surprising the lack of legal knowledge you get from those that are supposed to know the law.

Just spray it black and call it the Batmobile...

Once it gets to the stage where the fans wont come on until they are taped, its well past the stage where they should be removed and taken apart and cleaned/refurbed or replaced if your not inclined to do that.

As said short trips that never allow the oil temps to get to 90 to 100C will never evaporate the water vapor and the resulting build up of combustion by products like certain acid compounds, so they end up suspended in the oil...the result is reduced oil efficiency with a corrosive by product suspended in it.

The trouble with the DE ECU is that it doesn't monitor knock after 5K RPM, so if the fuel used was 95ron then IF the engine was reved/loaded heavily over that threshold it could have caused damage....however having said that, the weak point of the DE is the rods, and det can bend them, BUT normally before that happens you would have likely seen a drop in power duet to piston ring land and ring damage, so if you run a compression and leak-down test it will hopefully put your mind at rest.

After having a quick squint at the relevant section of the manual, it appears that the pedal re learn procedure is actually different and separate from the TPS learning, and the engine must first be up to normal temp for the TPS side to work, and unless the TPS relearn is done correctly then idle air learning will not automatically take place, add to this any problems with air leaks in the intake and/or PCV valve problems will compound things and make the whole process not work, so its easy to see why some people have had such problems.

Surly thats all anyone would do to clean the TB, you need to remove it to achieve this therefore you would normally either disconnect the single plug to the throttle which houses the stepper motor and sensors, and /or disconnect the battery, so my question would be how are people having so many problems after cleaning the throttle...and the answer can only be that in cleaning the resulting removal of debris is allowing the throttle plate to return to a position not previously monitored by the stepper motor/sensor/limit switch and so needing to relearn the closed position again. If the stepper motor/sensor etc was monitored full time surly a CEL would be thrown on every disconnection.

Must admit I removed and cleaned my throttle body without disconnecting the battery and never had a problem, I really cant see the TPS being monitored when the ignition is off...what would it achieve? I suspect that the problems reported may arise from the throttle body being cleaned and because of the build up being removed, returning to a slightly different position, and so needing resetting...so a case of some cause problems and some don't.

Never had a problem with PS3 version, no hangs etc, great game, still go back and play it.... I still have to get one of the add ons, mind you if anyone has the game of the year edition going cheap?

I presume your talking GTR here? as although the GTT is quite nice, unless you prepared to spend a decent amount of money on it, you will be disappointed, the GTR did come down in price considerably but now seem to have stabilised, whether they will go up in value remains to be seen, but one thing I will say is that if your not going to maintain it yourself be prepared for big bills, and spares are not cheap either, personally for the sake of a few grand more I would get an R35, and although the maintenance is similar and perhaps more, from what I hear they are worth it, I guess it depends on what you want to spend, and do with it.

Classic! one of those priceless occasions when you need video or at least pics...

I also like spiders...don't bother me at all, trouble is the wife doesn't to the extent that if she spots a spider anywhere in the bedroom or bathroom she has me balancing on bits of furniture trying to catch them...not fun when you just want to climb into bed and sleep, however probably quite amusing when I have just got undressed.. and I'm bolock naked perched on a chest of draws trying to pounce on an unsuspecting spider..

Thats because they are sick of being abused and having to wear a stab vest to work!

Are you sure the imobiliser hasn't kicked in? also could be a flat battery , you should be seeing about 12.8 to 13.2v on a good battery.

i don't need any music to get my heart pumping during a work out these days....better something to calm it down afterwords.

If the coolant temp sensor was faulty you would see a P1217 or P1218 fault code, fan switching is taken care of by the IPDM/relays.

No need..as the remap removes the restrictions throttle response that the device does.

Up-Rev remap or stand alone, its a pain setting up a piggyback with the std ECU as it will fight it all the way.

Bad allignment..worn or under/over inflated tyres..knackered dampers worn suspension bushes.

Cool story...

Watched the video tonight and as a lifelong motorcyclist until 12 years ago IMO I'm sorry to say that the bike rider was a fool..its plainly obvious that there are clearly marked road lines denoting that there was a potential hazzard..junction, so doing that sort of speed gives you no chance of anticipating what any car driver was going to do, and the fact that it was a junction and a car turned in front of him regardless of any indication or not wouldn't have prevented the accident.

Errr poppycock! that why modern oils are mutigrade.. and so are capable of providing the correct viscosity at all temps.

It not the revving a cold engine thats a problem its revving it with no load, the same really applies to a hot engine as well, however the term revving needs to be clarified, just bringing the revs/blipping up to say 3 to 4K is no real problem, but i wouldn't hold engine revs at that while cold. The only real difference in todays engines is the clearances and the material's, which are designed around modern oil technology, so engines are designed to be worked from cold, and modern synthetic multi grade oils can support this with no problem.