Tricky-Ricky

I moved to Norfolk two and half years ago from the south coast, and glad I did, although a bit flat in places is loverly countryside, really glad I got out of town.

I prefer something like this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIfPSxDg5yE

I'm afraid most of my musical taste is quite old, I listen to stuff most of you would probably say who!? Mind you I do the same wen confronted with a lot of todays artists, but I am sure some of you will know at least some of my list. Candy Dulfer Jazz rock/funk Rush Steamhammer Tito & Tarantula Yes North Mississippi all stars John Butler Trio Mountain Frank Zappa Tom Petty Todd Rndgren Robert Frip

Hello again and welcome, the SOC has a lot less lurkers that this forum, and can be a funny bunch at times But there a pretty nice bunch here as long you don't wind them up too much

Here's a good one for Z owners. https://www.futurelearn.com/courses/managing-my-money-2

Bung it in neutral and turn the engine off and coast, and see if its still there.

Fair do's It seems to me that most modern engines are specced to use 5W30 now, and they're like water when they're hot. What's your personal oil choice and why? This I s mainly to do with economy figures and emission's, but because modern oils are so good you can get away with using low viscosity oils, also modern engines are designed to run lower oil pressures, for the same reason.

Thanks. I leave play in it, so it fully disengages -- too tight on the fork will wear the clutch constantly. So no more ideas eh? Badly adjusted can mean it's riding the clutch and can stop the master cylinder piston completing a full stroke It can also cause the MS piston to not uncover the second fluid transfer port, which then leads to a floppy pedal as its running out of fluid.

Sorry DP!

Since our temps don't reach -30F it makes no difference whether you use 0w40 0w30 5w30 or10w40 the cold viscosity is virtually the same.

Here is mine!

LOL! also a bad choice of user name considering the sentiment.

Pretty much all modern oils are beyond the original speced version, make is just a personal preference, yes go for a 10W40 semi or fully synth, I wouldn't go any thicker unless you have oil pressure problems.

Drifting is going to cause problems just as much as track, if not more so as the slide is sustained and will generate quite high Gs so a baffled sump is a must, and extended would be preferable as well, because the engine RPM is up most of the time its will be easier and quicker to run the system dry, well at least cavitated which will amount to the same thing as for as plain bearings are concerned, adding a high flow or pressure oil pump will just compound the problem, you need constant flow not high pressure.

I would run a compression and leak down test to see if its down to ring seal/bore wear, it shouldn't be drinking that much at that mileage unless its been abused badly, what oil grade are you using?

There is an almost constant vacuum, so flow through the can is not a problem, mounting is not really a problem as Long as its not above the plenum, which is not really possible anyway, but if the can where to fill completely with oil and water vapor it could get drawn into the plenum...not good, so keep an eye on it and empty when it gets about half full.

Just a note on clutch adjustment, you do actually need about 1/2" of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, otherwise you run the risk of not having the clutch fully engaged, which is why I asked the question.

If the leak is before the first lambda sensor which means it would have to be in the manifold and you would indubitably hear it, and it would affect the running, if the lambda sensor is seeing extra air from a leak it will increase fueling to compensate, otherwise if the leak is elsewhere downstream of the sensor it shouldn't cause a problem.

No that wont work, the tank acts as a cooler/condenser which allows the oil vapor to drop out, you can also add a baffle plate between the in and out, but I find stainless scourers work well, the empty can still does the job though.

Yes that's correct, that if you want you can fill the can with stainless steel scourers, which will aid oil drop out, but make sure the can is resealed afterwards.

If Nissan had got the fulcrum point right in the first place it wouldn't need a helper spring, best mod for the 350 and 370Z is to move the fulcrum point...transforms the feel of the clutch pedal from using a weights machine to something with some feel and feedback.

How does you pedal feel? is there free play at the top before you feel any real resistance, could be a simple case of bad adjustment.

The way your thinking of fitting is a little pointless on the DE as it breaths heaviest at idle and low load because of the high vacuum from the plenum, that's why you often see a pool of oil in the lower half of the plenum when you remove it. You need to fit a sealed catch can (airtight! one feed in and one out) to the low throttle/idle side of the PCV system, IE the left hand side of the engine, replace the pipe that goes to the front of the left hand cam cover at the one way valve, and fit a catch can between that and its vacuum source at the plenum, the can must be sealed as if not it mess with the idle and running. The way you are thinking is also not ideal as you would be venting to air, and not making use of the engine vacuum at high loads to provide positive crankcase ventilation, and there is very little oil vapor drawn back into the engine from this side. I wrote a guide somewhere, and I will see if I can find you a pic for fitting. Guide for PCV systems http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/89535-oil-catch-can/#entry1349925

I'm sure thats possible if you have the cash and development resources, but I presumed the OP was talking about realistic tuning, also thats a US car...and we all know about US BHP

I would expect to only see another maybe 15-20BHPmax over the usual after a remap, with adding cams and port an polish + all the other usual mods, perhaps another 10-15 if you add ITBs but the cost is going to end up being similar to going FI by the time you have finished I would have thought. NA gains are very hard won, and often require a capacity and RPM limit increase to make the best of things.