Tricky-Ricky

On the back of what? the amp or head unit, the amp remote/turn on wire is usually blue or blue and white, I presume you have it connected via phono and not line level? have you checked these and selected the appropriate setup from the HU menu?

Is the amp actually turning on? is the fuse OK?

You will pay shipping, handling, import tax and VAT on that, so not so cheap for an unknown quality item, you can get SH fans from ebay or a breaker for £60, I have one for £50, if anyone is interested.

If you just use some spirit wipe (you can get it from your local paint factor) and give any plastics/vinyl a good clean beforehand, the glue will adhere well to this, so no need to rub down, rough up first.

Has the amp turn on wire (remote) been connected?

Errr yes there is a header tank on the left next to the washer tank filler.

I usually leave the rad cap off and run the engine until the thermostat opens, at this point the level will usually drop so you can top up, if it starts to overflow put the rad cap beck on and then you can check the levels again when cold. This is for coolant loss like yours not general topping up.

This was my next input, no familiar with these engines in particular, but how is the timing controlled via the coil packs, surly the ECU timing map does this? I was going to suggest a coil pack breaking down under load, although it should result in a misfire, I would still test or substitute cam and crank angle sensors as this could have a big impact, and effect the function of the VVTI system.

You could probably sell the drivers seat for a fortune to the VBH seat sniffing club

The reason I didn't mention knock being detected is that this does throw a CEL on most modern engines, its not usually a full time condition, IE if you put a low grade petrol (although it should run on it fine as the ECU uses live monitoring unlike older ECUs so it can adjust timing to suite, rather than retard it and leave it there until no further knock is detected, if the sensor is duff it should retard the timing full time and throw a CEL.

Did this in my old S13 and Supra, rebuilt and recovered the seats too, its not too hard if you are competent with a sowing machine and can cut things accurately, spray glue works well, but a pig if you get too much over-spray or need to remove it later.

Most sensor faults will throw a CEL, if timing is being retarded I would expect a crank or cam sensor to be faulty, are you sure its ignition timing, and not the VVTI solenoid playing up? could also be worth checking the fuel pump.

Sorry fella but if replacing the brake lines cost you 1K you have been bent over and royally rogered. Ask for a fully itemised bill, listing all the parts replaced (that you didn't supply) and a breakdown of labor costs.

Yes its airflow that makes all the difference, I often see people posting about heat wrapping their intake pipework, but it really doesn't achieve anything once the car is at speed due to the boundary layer effect which stops heat transferring from the outside of the pipework to the airflow inside because of the air velocity, and the thin layer of static air.

Done similar on other turbo cars where under-bonnet temps are usually higher, but I have never found it makes more than a couple of degrees difference when stationary as everything will heat up including the enclosure. which then radiates the heat to the surrounding air of the filter, which I know is moving due to the induction, but like I said it makes very little difference, But you will notice a difference on the move with the filter enclosed, and a outside air feed.

LOL! shows that people don't read the whole thread.

Idler bearing failing.

The 370 will start with either the clutch or brake pressed It's so that if you start it in gear you don't smash through your garage door. It makes no difference to the starter motor as it's spinning the flywheel, which has no load if the car is in neutral. As above, I think it was devised in America, If it was to avoid wear on the starter there would be an awful lot of dead starter motors about, as it a fairly recent addition, in fact its proved detrimental on some cars by causing premature wear on the crankshaft thrust bearing on some makes.

How about a bit of King Crimson.

No sure TBH, I dint have it, however I would have thought that once the engine is running the interlock switch is cut out of the circuit by the ECU, but I would have to check the manual, it would also be easy to check with a multimeter.

You have to include a couple of Dead covers,

You can bypass the switch by simply removing the two connectors on the switch and connect them together, you need to leave the switch itself in place as it acts as the return limit adjuster for the clutch pedal.

If you changing to a proprietary pump like Walbro etc there is no need to regulate the pump, in fact most I have deliberately disabled any two stage pump controllers when upping the power.

That switch was the first thing I eliminated when I got my car....most annoying feature ever!!!

At least its not one of those busses with no driver that they are going to introduce I think if it was me I would have hunted out a battery with the same voltage and a soldering iron and bodged it to avoid a bus ride.