Tricky-Ricky

There are two 10a fuses that relate to the windows, in the fuse box above the BCM, check these, also check you haven't knocked on the window lock button, The windows are also linked into the door switches so check the grounds on these as they can effect the operation, The BCM controls the whole system so if there is problem with this, it will cause problems, or its just the motor needs cleaning which will entail removing the door card, there is a how to somewhere here.

Unlike aftermarket temp gauges which are designed to be accurate, std gauges are designed to be a general indication so they don't panic the owners, the temp has to go quite high before they move much.

Both fans will only come on if the following are met, engine is at normal temp and air-con is on, and/or the engine temp has gone above the threshold,which I think is over 100c otherwise only one fan comes on.

In any case you would be much better off making an almost total enclosure for the filter and its cold air source.

I think I would be inclined to hide those horns somewhere where they cant be seen period.

Don't forget that although the ECU does not monitor knock over 5K RPM, if lower ron fuel is used and knock is detected up to 5K RPM, the ECU will pull timing and leave it there until no further knock is detected which will protect the engine, however I am not sure if the default knock table is present after 5K RPM.

Are you both still running the assist spring unit? lowering the pedal via the adjuster will not increase the force needed when the assist spring is not used. The whole heavy clutch problem is down to the pedal fulcrum point being wrong, see earlier in the thread.

And that is the crux of the matter, makes no odds what their colour creed or race!

Not all garages will be able to perform a leak-down test, but most can compression test, but leak-down is more conclusive, for the costs involved in buying your own kit for doing a leak down test, its better to go with a garage, you can buy a compression tester for £20 and do this your self, if go this route just ask and I will tell you how if a how to doesn't exist here. Unfortunately det can cause damage very quickly if severe, milder det will just accumulate damage until the ring lands break and at this point the rings will quickly follow causing bore damage as well.

My sympathies, having been convicted of a similar heinous crime, I think we should be hung drawn and quarterd...... Seriously I am of the opinion that if the revenue generated form these terrible crimes should be used to create a real police force and justice system. instead of the face we have at the moment.

In theory as previously mentioned the ECU should be able to adjust the fueling and timing maps to accommodate the lower grade, however because the DE ECU has no knock control over 5K RPM it very much depends on how its been used, IE if the previous owners have been frequently been reving the engine to the red-line, then it could have caused damage even at 30K miles, if you wanted to put your mind at rest, then getting a compression and leak-down test done would give you an idea of the condition of the piston rings/bore which is where the det damage would affect.

Appalling! time we had a scum cull! To add to that its high time this PC bull was revised, you cant open your mouth and express yourself these days without upsetting someone, its just stupidly repressing everyone, which only leads to frustration, until feelings boil over, IMO it responsible for a lot of today's troubles....Rant over!

Doesn't the oil light come on when the pressure drops below the pressure safety threshold? if so it still could be down to a bad sensor...trying to throw the guy a lifeline here.

Get it checked by an independent motor engineer, at least he will check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, that way it will either put your mind at rest or not, changing the oil grade will simply mask things, if the oil pressure remains below the limits in the manual then I'm afraid you do have a problem....but I'll keep my fingers crossed for you, good luck!

I though even a private sale of a SH vehicle still had to be fit for purpose? although I think your now going to have to resort to having it examined by a qualified technician in order to prove this. Did you sign anything stating that you bought having tested and approved..

Yes unfortunately I would also take it back, OK the sensor could be faulty, but the fact that it was only showing a maximum of 40PSI when driving is to me a sign that there is already wear in the engine, IE too much clearance in the shell bearings (if the reading is accurate) The fact that you have found the the oil level was very low and the gauge indicated no pressure would I'm afraid mean that damage has already gotten worse, sorry fella but your looking at trouble if you keep it.

Just for reference daylight is 5500K anything above is into the blue spectrum, and anything below is yellow. The Z uses xenon/HID which require a ballast to produce an arc, xenon/halogen don't, so I can be confusing. I have used the cheap ebay bulbs and they seem to work OK

Wow! do they write them off for a wing and a door now then?

In my experience I have never encountered a loose gearbox filler/drain plug, in fact most that I have changed the oil on have needed a hefty breaker bar to shift them, so I agree that its was down to them.

Makes me so glad I have never had to resort to using a garage for work other than MOT, except one time when I needed a clutch change and I was laid up, but from my own experience and a couple mates who are mechanics for a living, even they would balk at charging 10 h for brake lines, but hey your happy now.

I had this on my 350GT, and its seemed to come from the clutch arm pivot, tried to get some oil or grease on it but its difficult, I just sprayed WD on it but the noise soon cam back, I think the only real option is to use a good stiff grease on it when dismantled.

Nah I'm vindictive...I would wait until he had served his time and spend a monkey getting him fitted up for something that would give him anther five years.

A 2 HP with 50lt tank should be sufficient, I have one and have sprayed cars with and used air tools, check the CFM this will give you an idea of what it can run.

Yes that will be fine, I always ran mine on Shell Helix semi synth 10W40, and as yous has 100k on the engine I would be inclined to run a slightly thicker oil IE 10W40 rather than 5 or 10W30.

Here is the install manual if you haven't got it, there is not a blue only wire, only a blue and white wire which is the turn on signal wire for and external amp, if this is not connected the amp wont turn on (unless you have wired the amp to be permanently on, which is not a good idea) http://www.kenwood-electronics.co.uk/WebFiles/File/uk/download/Instruction%20Manuals/MultiMedia/DDX5024%20DNX5240_BT%20installation.pdf