Tricky-Ricky

Yes 70-80 and 90s sold the Z650 back in 2001

Couple of my old retro bikes, And this was one of my restorations for somebody (pre restoration)

I disagree about the Heat soak issue, as it only affects the intake pipework via radiated heat when the engine bay is hot and the car is stationary, and/or has no cold air feed from outside the car, once there is any appreciable airflow going through the intake system it cannot be affected by heat soak due to the boundary layer effect which prevents the moving air being heated because of the thin layer of near stationary air that's between the pipe/box and the main airflow, Sure if the IAT sensor is mounted in such a way as to be getting transmitted heat from the pipework, but AFAIK its combined with a AFM and so shouldn't suffer badly, and also AFAIK plastic is just as susceptible as alloy to retaining heat, but that's beside the point anyway. Surly IAT is not going to have that much effect on timing on an N/A motor as its not going to see vast changes in intake temps unlike an FI motor.

Not at all mate, you where doing him a favor, if he is so unappreciative of this and is not able to understand he is not much of a friend, just tell him hes had a good deal for a while and now unfortunately its over, he has signed no contract so he has no rights as a tenant.

I think the main points you have to remember are firstly those dynos are from the US and likely that they where performed by the same shop that sold the induction kit, secondly those are US dyno figures Also since the std ECU is capable of negating any breathing mods, and add to that if you run a Z on the dyno it takes 3 to 5 hard runs for the ECU to sort itself out if you have been driving in normal traffic, just ask Mark at Abbey, so its quite likely that adding an induction kit and doing two or three runs on a dyno will result in an increase even if nothing has been done, so its easy to prove a mod can increase power I'll see if I can find my old dyno sheet.

And often a handling charge as well from the courier/post.

I am presuming that the two channel amp you want to use has no network connection capability? the trouble is when you start to rip you CD collection depending on the format it can take a lot of space...so big hard drives are needed for large connections, ideally you need something that can have a HD plugged in via USB or LAN, Most modern AV receivers are capable of this, and some use wifi as well, but not all are so good at music.

Unfortunately yes, and it can be a PITA, did a lot of cross referencing when I was playing with the electrics of the 350GT, and they share very similar circuitry, because PDM and several other control modules are tied into the ECU CANbus system it throws wobbler's if lights etc are disconnected.

Sorry to correct but the Z does use CANbus system .

All the youngsters will be asking you if you have NOS.

From the manual, oil pressure for the DE states that it should be more than 14psi at idle and more than 43psi at 2,000 RPM at a temp of 80c.

Are you out..standing in your field......

http://shop.zedperformance.co.uk/12v-hot-oil-scavenge-gear-pump-low-mount-turbo-boat-marine-dry-sump

I would presume the HR runs pretty much the same std oil pressure as the DE, those pressures don't seem dangerously low but the fact that you say your pressure has dropped suddenly is a bit of a worry, I would fit a reliable electric or mechanical after market oil pressure gauge and just keep an eye on it..

LOL! Very true, also if you cant get the reply you want on one forum....bung it on another forum and hedge your bets, why didn't the OP get himself a decent solicitor before starting down the compensation route.

My apologies, I didn't realise that they meant those galleries, makes no sense running normal gaskets on high pressure oil galleries, why did Nissan not use rubber gaskets in recesses, or at the least use a sensible sealant, thats just asking for trouble, funny I have never heard of the same problem on the DE. The trouble is if there is enough of a leak there to cause the oil pressure to drop that low it's more than likely that there is already damage/accelerated ware to the plain bearing shells.

I agree, or the bickering will just go on.................

Seems you spoke too soon fella, I would just sit back and let them get on with it....

You can get a complete conversion kit for fitting the LS1-3 from the states.

RB26 = 407lbs 320BHP easy to get 360-380BHP but after that gets very expensive, and is a bit high strung when pushed beyond 600BHP VQ35DE = 417lbs 276BHP expensive to get anything more than 300BHP from. 2JZGTE = 594lbs 320BHP and easy/cheap to get 370 to 400BHP 600-900BHP possible with std block/pistons, but also expensive. LS1-3 =503 -516lbs 350 and 450BHP 550BHP with mild mods, but not sure on price.

Have a search on the US forums, I think its been done a few times, the better option is the 2JZGTE swap, or LS2 or 3 swaps.

I cant believe that this thread has rambled on for so long, the OP has held his hands up and said its down to him and he doesn't want to pursue things further, so maybe the bandwidth would be better taken up with ways to help him get hold of another engine to fit rather than the "told you so" and "stupid " remarks, we all make **** ups from time to time, and at least he had the courage to admit it.

Cat monitor light should have been turned of permanently if its had an up-rev remap, check back with whoever did the remap.

Could be just that during turning the rear gets loaded up also, so accentuates the play/roughness in the bearing and causes vibration/noise to travel through the chassis/body, I find it can be quite difficult to pinpoint noises, and often a noise that the driver says comes from the front, sounds like it comes from somewhere quite different to the passenger, In any case glad it all fixed fella.

The std filter and box is fine, and you can add a K&N panel, but if you want the extra sound from a pod filter etc then do this before the remap, not that it will make any more difference than the sound.