Tricky-Ricky

Oil pressure at 80C idle more than 14 psi 2,000 rpm more than 43psi.

While I don't doubt that it can help with immersions by clearing out all the gunk that accumulates in throttle plates, inlet tracts,and can clean injectors and sensors etc, I am a little incredulous that it can restore any appreciable lost performance, I have yet to see any conclusive proof that this can happen via dyno plots etc.

Carbon build up is not really much of a problem on modern engines with todays clean fuels and oils, I have dismantled engines with 80K and up, and found very little carbon, on an older engine that had a bit of carbon build up you often find the ring and valve seal suffers if its decoked, not at all sure about this Terra clean and exactly what it can do that can actually restore any lost performance, I wonder if its more a placebo effect, after all if you pay £100+ you would expect to notice something.

Agreed!

I simply corrected some misinformation, the non fact was yours.

Basically power is lost through wear and loss of combustion efficacy, so as the rings and bore wear and the cylinder doesn't hold as much compression as its use to when new, this will reduce power output, as will badly sealing valve seats, there are further smaller loses through bearing and gearbox wear, but the main is the combustion process. Replacing sensors that are actually not performing there function correctly, or have simply failed will of course help, but in general its not a concern if they still function OK. Its not always down to mileage, and some higher mileage engines can maintain their efficacy if well looked after, I have owned both VQ and other engine cars with over 50K mls on them that have kept there std power output on the dyno.

I have a single std refurebed motor if your interested.

I am not being picky , but In the interests of keeping things factual, The ECU in fact plays a big part in FBW throttle control, it limits the % of opening seen by the stepper motor attached to the throttle plate in the first three gears, along with throttle modulation used in the traction control system, without the ECU interface you would just have a connection between the pedal and the throttle body, so you may as well have a cable. This is why the throttle opening reduction/lag whatever you want to call it can be removed with an up-rev remap as well as the proprietary throttle control devices available.

Mine is easy really, Tricky because in the past I have been known for doing tricky little mods on my bikes and cars, and Ricky because my name is actually Richard....but always known as Dick, however the first time I tried to sign up to a forum years ago the swear filter wouldn't let me have Tricky-Dicky so I settled for Ricky.

Presumably you will take it to a body shop to fix? Just make sure they will either spot sand blast it to remove all traces of rust, and/or remove as much as possible and treat with a decent rust converter/preventer before paint, that should prevent it coming back at least for the time you own the car.

Congratulations to the both of you, and I would go with A.

Because you have HFC fitted it will likely be the cat monitor lambda sensors, you can either fit extension tubes for the sensors, or wait until you have the remap and have them turned off, but I would advise getting a reader fro the code just to make sure its not some other fault.

Have you got a code for lambda sensors fault? you will get new ones from one of the traders here, or universal type from here, http://www.lambdasensor.com/

Not sure if it will cure the problem your having but the throttle controller is supposed to overcome the std ECUs response in limiting the opening rate and amount that's applied to the first three gears, somebody with an auto and throttle controller is bound to be along to confirm if its compatible.

Sorry! no problem, I have no wish to continue now.

So we will have to agree to disagree then fella , but stop with all the facetious comments, I was just trying to have a discussion with those that wish to discuss the topics, and not play silly games.

Release bearings are notorious for being noisy, most are audible when in neutral with engine running, not really a cause for concern.

Just for reference if your going to DIY respray your wheels, its always better to use 2k as it will flash off quicker so you will get less chance of runs on awkward angles like wheels, especially if your new to spraying, just use a decent mask, doesn't need to be air fed like some would say, I have been using it for years with just a mask and I am still OK LOL!

Where you spraying in cold conditions! re flat the wheels either with fine scotched or 400-600 wet n dry respray with a couple of coats of base colour, let it flash off and then a couple of coats of lacquer allowing it flash off between coats, and if you can heat the area so much the better.

Your leaving it way too long between coats, you run the risk of the paint peeling due to low adhesion, the primer should have been Left to flash off for an hour or two at most, before sanding an applying the base coats, then the clear should have been applied as soon as the base has flashed off, same goes for any subsequent coats, if the temp is cold then you need a bit of heat to help things as if there is too much moisture in the air you will get bloom.

Well fella if you want to play who knows best.... I have been building cars/bikes and engines and tuning them for the last 40 odd years and I am pretty confident in most of my info other than quoting exact prices I have seen plenty of FI engines damaged through bad fuel, but I am not going into scenario for the sake of argument, suffice to say that it happens. Secondly if you fuel supply is contaminated with water and you try and run the engine, most of the time it will run as the petrol sit on top of the water, so unless you have very low fuel the pump pick up will not pick up the water due to the position, further to this have you never heard or used water injection? its using a fine metered spray in the intake or plenum to provide both charge cooling and in cylinder cooling, which is very efficient and allows the ECU to be mapped for a little more power, or just left to provide a little safety margin especially on FI engines. You seem to place some distinction between turbocharged and supercharged engines, yet they both run with the same principal, the only difference is that a SC engine will make boost earlier due to direct ratio to engine RPM, You obviously don't understand the principal of combustion as EGT =exhaust gas temperature is just as important in N/A as FI, it can be influenced by, and all of the following and not just boost pressure, Ignition timing, fuelling, compression ratio, fuel quality/octane and boost, People seem to labour under the false impression that because a turbocharger is run from the exhaust its going to be much hotter than a supercharger, but the fact is that any compressed air is going to be hot from simply being compressed......this is why you run a suitably sized intercooler to reduce the temps to near ambient and sometimes lower, (this is another reason for running water injection) Now on to the PCV system, adding oil to the combustion process will lower the octane of the fuel used, the reason for modifying it, lets take the VQ for now, is because of the design of the plenum and the fact that most engines draw the most oil vapour during idle due to the high vacuum, this oil vapour pools in the low point of the plenum base which is fine until you use a large throttle opening and then close it again, this causes turbulence and results in a quantity of oil being drawn into the combustion chambers and burnt, Now depending on the engine loading at this point it is possible for this to result in det, on a std engine its usually not much of a problem (but personally I will always mod it to avoid this) But with an FI engine no matter whether SC or turbo, if this happens at the wrong time IE under high load and not necessarily high RPM it can cause det, which is a definite bad thing on a FI motor, so if you can avoid this its always better to remodel the PCV system IMO, you wont see a race engine with a recirc PCV system for a good reason, and although the VQ is not, adding boost is pushing it beyond its design parameters so the more help you can get the better. Finally you asked about ECUs and features, there are quite a lot of low price ECUs about, but I'll give you an example of a mid price piggyback made by Greddy, the Emanage ultimate, as I'm sure you know a piggyback is spliced into the std ECU and intercepts the signals from the engine sensors IE, AFM/MAP, injector, ignition timing etc etc, these signals are then modified and the result is being able to fool the ECU and map the engine to improve/adapt its performance, Now the EMU has individual cylinder adjustments for ignition timing and fuelling trim, for both RPM and load, this is just an example as there are more that will do the same at prices from about the same as an up-rev remap. Oh! and just to address you drag racer scenario, they go boom because they tuned to such a degree that they are literally a bomb on wheels and are fuelled by nitro methane which is as its name suggests very very volatile, add to this they are run at the most boost pressure they can get away with its hardly surprising that the do blow up literally.

You are right about this but the solution with UPrev is to fatten the map past 48krpm. It's more than ample except you are leaving some power on the table. Bad fuel is a moot point and is unlikely to happen as if anything will not let you reach redline. I have had water contaminated fuel from a Murco on the M5 around Taunton while playing Russian roulette with low fuel trying to get to Gordano services but chickened out as the fuel had been on ---- for over 25miles and was worried the hill into bristol will catch me out. Long and short the the car was spluttering for about 1 mile and finally died. Had to get the AA tow me to the services drained my tank filled with fresh fuel and after multiple attempts to start the car it finally cleared the injectors and drove ok after that to Worcester. Knock control will not save you from fuel pump failure. You would need to spend a fortune on very high end ecu with failsafes at all level and it will still not save you from a catastrophic failure of some sort. Some high end drag cars run complex ecu with individual cylinder control and fsilsafes and still go bang! You can't get any better than this. My point it that it's not a big issue apart from not optimising fueling at timing past the limit. Ultimately we all know FI is a risk and you have to go in with your eyes open, same with normal road cars. My mate has spent a fortune on a low mileage 335D with all sorts going boom. Another way to look at it is how many cars that have gone bang so far with FI? But there has been a spate of blown NA engines recently. I guess the causes are different but safety is safety. Poor oil or lack of is a bigger issue and once FI'ed you need to watch it like a hawk. That was my point, you have to play it safe with up-rev mapping as it uses the std knock control table that runs out at 5K RPM, with a decent stand alone ECU such as Syvecs or Link etc which are not that expensive in the scheme of things and can be had for £1200-1600 and have very comprehensive knock control and loads of other safety functions like over boost protection, along with individual cylinder adjust for fuel timing, in fact even mid priced piggyback that I have used have individual cylinder trim. I would be far more concerned with bad quality fuel and over-boost protection than I would with bad oil, as most oils available are plenty good enough for an engine designed back in the ninety's which the VQ was, Once your FI the main points for concern at high loads are Knock brought on by whatever IE det through over-boost, bad/low octane fuel, not water contamination as that wont reduce the octane count, unlike oil in the combustion mix (which is why I would always make sure I have remodeled the PCV system) the other is high EGTs which it seems nobody monitors on the VQ? A dead fuel pump would be the least of my worries, in any case the ECUs I mentioned have fail safes for low fuel pressure, the std ECU has no monitoring for this and very little else when pushing the motor beyond its design limits IE FI, on your average basic FI motor there are already safety functions built in to cover these eventualities, which is why I mentioned my concerns about the std ECU and up-rev, but I guess its all a case of what your prepared to spend your cash on.

Interestingly on the two comparison of AFR target graphs where the load/RPM scales are matching the target AFR cells quite a lot of the Abbey map are actually a bit leaner rather than richer which is puzzling.

Makes you wonder if people notice the lack of throttle limitation the most when going for up-rev, as its obviously going to make the car feel stronger when punching it in lower gears. So for the difference in price it may suit some to just use a throttle controller to get what they want from the engine. No response from the FI guys on my comments then?

Had a look for that code but couldn't find it??