Tricky-Ricky

Useual causes of squeaking, Badly worn belt Belt too tight Belt too loose Damp weather also compounds the effect of extra load from lighting, although I have never seen any squeak caused by an alternator unless the bearings are going, Try some talc or chalk powder that usually helps.

In theory yes, but just for example I have fitted various makes of spring and damper's, along with coilover to other cars, some where I was able to specify a spring rate of my choice (within certain limits as the damping is usually fixed in its range for coilovers) yet I can honestly say that I have yet to find a combo that I was completely satisfied with. Two have come close, but that I think was by chance, one was on my Supra and they where Tein but I cant remember which ones, but they where a special order with softer damping and spring rates (the Japanese seem to over do it) and the other was simply by chance and they where BC and where intended for the Z but I fitted them to my Skyline 350GT which weighs 100kg more, and because of this they performed rather well. The ONLY coilovers I have driven with that I really liked, where on a mates Skyline R32GTR and where 2.5k worth of Ohlins hence my choice, they had enough range to be comfortable on the road, but also for track. So rather than waffle on too much, my best advice would be to see if I could drive a few zeds with different setups and see which I liked best, because everyone is going to like different things.

The same or very close to std rate....whatever they are on the Z, and progressive rates have a nicer feel, however as I said its not all about spring rates, the way the dampers are valved plays an equally big part in the overall feel, and the way they respond to compression and rebound, race shocks are adjustable for bump and rebound separately.

With coilovers comfort very much depends on the quality and selection of the internal valving, and getting the correct spring rates to match, a Lot of cheaper coilovers have a tendency to be over damped with a hard spring rate...which to some gives the impression of a sporty ride when in fact its mostly the opposite.

Personally if your budget can stretch to it ohlins coil-overs with the correct spring rate and valved for fast road would be my choice, one of the best dampers out there.

I think the term " airhead" would be very fitting.

From my research it has an oil temp gauge and not an oil pressure gauge........... bit daft IMO.

As Neilp said, the thermostatic take off plate, usually fitted to the oil filter housing, its possible that the std temp gauge is a little optimistic, but it also depends where the oil temp is measured, if the sensor point is on the block or oil filter area it will usually read more than the temp in the sump, so if I fit an aftermarket gauge I will normally fit a sensor in the sump if a can.

If it doesn't take too much hard driving for your temps to reach 110c in this weather, then during summer it could be a different story, if you do fit a cooler don't go too big and use a take off plate with a high ish opening temp to stop over cooling. The HR motor must run quite hot then, I only added a small 19 row cooler when I started getting temps over 117c on my supra after fitting a large turbo.

yeah i have been told this good piont if its thermostatic tho then will it not leave the engine until to warm ? what is the optimum safe temps for the oil Any good thermostatic take off plate will allow a constant small amount of oil to flow through the cooler at all times, so there is no sudden thermo shock to the engine when the opening temp is reached, which may mean that the oil will take slightly longer to reach normal operating temp, Most decent semi and fully synth oils are happy up to around 130c but I wouldn't want to be seeing more than 115c - 120c on a regular basis, conversely oil needs to reach around 100c during normal engine use in order to evaporate water vapor.

Thermostatic take off is a must, but even with a low temp one you may find that you need to cover the cooler in winter, bare in mind that too cool is just as bad as too hot.

No way to check the seals without dismantling fully, if the turbos are off then just spray cleaner down both cold and hot side, if they are still on the car then just start and run/drive for a while, the oil will just burn off with exhaust heat, if its still smoking after 20 odd miles then you have a problem with the seals.

Not enough pressure to cause any damage, it feasible that there is past seal damage but time will tell, as I said it probably down to the back pressure, and the fact that the shaft was not turning. No turbo seals are always metal, the rubber O rings in the kit are for the cold side housing to core, brake cleaner will be fine and wont cause a problem.

Would there have been excessive pressure generated by the pump running in reverse? turbo seals are pretty strong, they are like a mini piston ring and take considerable pressure to cause failure, a BB turbo uses the same type of seal that a plain bearing turbo , and oil pressures can reach well in excess of 120psi when oil is cold, so I would doubt this is the problem. I would suspect that its just the leftover oil from the pump forcing oil past the seals because it was restricted on the feed side, give it a good few miles to clear, if it doesn't after that then further exploration will be needed. Turbo seals do not depend on air pressure to seal properly, or all turbo engines would smoke during N/A operation. PS. where the turbos new?

Just a couple of further thoughts... its obviously something that's not triggering a CEL so going on the premise, and as its intermittent I am wondering if its an air leak IE perhaps the one way valve in the PCV system is leaking when hot enough and allowing extra air into the combustion process, I do know that in theory the lambda feedback should throw a CEL when out of range, but the ECU will start to use the the cat lambda sensor when the primary is going bad, and as the reponce time for the secondary is a lot slower its not triggering the CEL. The other possibility could be the AFM being dirty, or has a bad connection/dry joint that's influenced by heat/vibration, should also throw a CEL but you never know.

I would suspect that if you drove it at various loads you would be seeing a different story with timing advance, Its quite likely that because the chain is stretched the cam sensors are reporting varying signals, and some of these are beyond the ECUs expectations in turn triggering the bogging, not doubt a little longer and the condition will be permanent as the ECU goes into limp mode.

Still keeping an eye on this, glad to see you back in business with the build, from my limited knowledge of turbo positioning, given the fact that that as the exhaust to turbo length increases, the gas temp and so gas speed decreases with it, so I would imagine that in order to make the best use of whats available, you would not only need a smaller hot side housing and turbine, it would also need to be designed to make more use of the lower gas speed, IE different spacing and pitch on the turbine if that makes sense. I think the oil scavenging is going to remain you biggest problem though, unless you can actually use a pull through pump system to both feed and return the oil.

Unless you disable it of course!

It should also be pointed out that there is nothing to be gained by fitting decats to a std car, you will need a remap to actually get a small gain.

I strongly suspect that you will encounter problems, IE triggering CELs if you try and splice into the coil feeds as they are part of the CANbus system.

Did we not do all this a couple of week's ago? I have a distinct feeling of dé·jà vu:

I have now owned my first Honda ever (apart from bikes) for two years, an 07 Civic 2.2 diesel, an its surprisingly nice to drive, and relatively quick, probably get it down B roads quicker and without the drama of the G35. All i will say is if your used to a car with a bit of low down torque you will find a type R a bit of a pain, as keeping it on the boil just to make good speed would be a real pain, not driven one but been a passenger and found it rather annoying.

Much nicer colour that the std silver, really suits it.

Very nice fella...what colour is it? is it the std light silver? don't think they did the G35 in a dark silver/anthracite? the pics look like they are hdr?

I was being facetious...the 300ZX VG30 while being a V motor bares no real relation to the VQ35, and nor does the rest of the Z which only started production in 2002 hence the 13 years.