Tricky-Ricky

I think this takes some beating,

If it burning oil then its down to bad ring/bore seal, as i said before it would be worth running a compression test to see if that's the case. Or with a bit of luck **** thin oil. Magnatec maybe? I have read several posts where people say this about Magmatec...yet it WILL be the correct hot viscosity, so why it should behave any different to any other oil of the same viscosity seems ludicrous! If an engine is burning oil then its likely to be ring seal or guides, and although running a thicker oil than std might help reduce this, there is no reason for one particular type to promote the effect, I wonder if this is just a bit of forum hype because one of two people have had coincidental problems? is there a long list of fully documented testing that gives conclusive proof?

If it burning oil then its down to bad ring/bore seal, as i said before it would be worth running a compression test to see if that's the case. Back to the plug scenario... Copper core plugs have long been considered the better plug by racers, and in particular un suppressed, but other than that, out of the plethora of different types, material's and designs over the last 100 odd years that they have been about, there has been no documented evidence that any one plug is better that any other performance wise, longevity yes, but performance no! Just for example i have used nothing but copper core plugs in all my cars, and that covers bikes, everyday motors and highly tuned motors, mainly because i wont pay a silly premium for not having to change them for X amount of thousand miles, and also partly because i like to look at my plugs every now and then because there is no better indicator of the way your engine is running. I always prefer copper core over any other, and especially over iridium, as in my experience iridium plugs have a tendency to be rather fragile when subjected to det, and especially with boosted applications, i have seen them cause engine damage on occasion because the ceramics fail under det, which the general consensus is that its because of the electrode being extra stiff which causes the ceramic insulator to crack and fail. Edit: just to clarify i refer to copper core plugs at the std type, regardless of the core material of the other tow types.

It wont be because of the type of plug, unless they have become fouled because of another engine or electrical problem.

I disagree! care to quantify that statement?

Said in his best "carry on film voice"

Nothing at all wrong with copper core plugs, the ONLY difference between them and platinum or iridium is service life.

Have you checked the condition of all the plugs? and is it actually misfiring still? Worth checking the coil pack connections, also may be worth removing all the plugs and check visually for a spark, and while you at it run a compression test just to satisfy yourself there is nothing else amiss.

What sort of mileage is on your Z?

Its just a simple case of some people like this sort of look And some like this, It would be a sad and uninteresting world if we all had the same tastes, vive la difference!

Kind of depends on what you want...a better handling car, or a better handling car with comfort? if you fit uprated springs or coil overs and ARBs it will likely feel harsh, on a road car I would fit just one or the other, compromise is difficult unless you spend a lot of cash.

Quick copy and paste to explain the various types, colours and uses of antifreeze,Let us begin to sort this out by pointing out the three principal groups of coolants. We will not define every possible coolant and its corresponding color. Indeed, yellow coolants may have very different compositions. A blue coolant may have the same formula as a red coolant. The three basic divisions include the following: Group 1 - the original glycol-based “green†antifreeze we are all familiar with. They have quick-acting silicate and phosphate corrosion inhibitors that do a good job inhibiting corrosion on both iron and aluminum surfaces. This familiar green liquid has proven its worth in all the temperature extremes of North America. Virtually any vehicle can use this fluid. Why not make this the universal coolant? You could, and maybe we have, but the corrosion inhibitors have a very short life and the antifreeze must be changed every other year or every 30,000 miles. If the customer fails to perform this maintenance, then expensive radiator, heater core and pump replacements soon follow. Unfortunately, many motorists do not keep up with maintenance, even with encouragement from their mechanics. Group 2 – coolants based on the organic acid technology (OAT). They contain 2-ethylhexanoic-acid or 2-EHA and other organic acids, but no silicates or phosphates. This formula gives longer life, thus replacing the short-lived silicates and phosphates. Many colors reside in this group. General Motor’s OAT-based DexCool is orange. Volkswagen-Audi has the same formula, but it is pink. Honda has one coolant dyed a dark green, which looks almost black when it is dirty. The corrosion inhibitors in this group are slower acting, but longer lasting. Five years, or 150,000-mile intervals are often recommended in this group of coolants. Group 3 - the group of hybrid OAT coolants called G-05. They do not have 2-EHA but use other organic acids and add a little silicate. Silicate is desired because it provides quick-acting protection for aluminum surfaces. Silicate will also repair minor surface defects. Chrysler, Ford, and many European manufacturers are using these hybrid OATs. OK, there are lots of coolants and different colors out there. Do you have to replace or can you top off one coolant with another? A truly universal coolant would help matters greatly, Providing the ability to use one coolant for all purposes. To partially refill any color of coolant with a universal one would be a great asset. Its existence would totally dominate the aftermarket in a short time. In my opinion, there is one true universal coolant - the original green stuff. It is the cheapest, it protects and even repairs minor aluminum flaws, and the only inconvenience is its short lifespan (offset by its low cost) with the semiyearly drain and refill. In your local parts store, you will find Group 2 OAT coolant being advertised as universal in its ability to mix with other coolants. This is true, it will mix. But the 150,000-mile advantage deteriorates if you mix it with Group 1 or Group 3. Why pay a higher price to mix red with green or another color only to lose its ability to provide extended life? OAT coolants are not the best choice for systems that have traditional brass/copper radiators and heater cores. In the past, I replaced high-priced aluminum radiators with cheaper copper ones, and neglected to remove all of the OAT coolant and replace it with green. I am sure the copper did not last as long as it should have with OAT antifreeze.

....which in the long run could kill your engine? Yes but eventually, nothing is going to happen in the course of a few months, just like your pics its something that happens anyway, and over years, that why coolant has corrosion inhibitors.

Another tip if you want to avoid ride harshness is to go for the std type rubber bush top mounts rather than the so called "pillow ball" mounts, which are just a spherical bearing and will also contribute to making for a harsh ride, fine for track but not for road.

Colour does not necessarily designate the kind of coolant these days, it used to but not any more, although there is possibly one exception which is the orange organic acid type, the rest can be any mix of corrosion inhibitors, which is what you have to be a little careful about, if your car came with a long life coolant from the factory its not a good idea to top up with a silicate based coolant, it wont kill you engine but it will effect corrosion resistance.

Just a heads up on the suspension side of things, any of the Japanese suspension/coil overs etc will make the ride harsh, if you want to lower and keep a reasonable ride BC coil overs for the Z are a good compromise, and will also negate the need for ARBs if fact I would only go for one or the other as both will result in making the ride very harsh.

Its nothing to panic over, you not likely to gum up the cooling system by mixing two different types of coolant, ideally you shouldn't mix ethylene glycol with organic acid types, but sludge forming will be more down to bad quality and hard water, its more a case of what type is suitable with the engine metals, some manufactures recommend using a certain type, if your worried just drain and refill with the recommended type.

Common problem, could just be the sensor or a stretched cam chain, check the tensioner first, parts available form traders here.

Is your Z a JDM model? some code readers that can read JOBD cannot access the various modules as well, so don't see the codes from these.

Just skimmed through this......unbelievable! I would be looking to take legal action on quickfit...something definitely not right about the whole thing, apart from a numpty not being able to use a tyre machine...making him solely responsible for the damage indicates there is something amiss big time.

No mate it will go off without, if its indeed the brake fluid.

Have you tried checking the brake fluid level...its a classic for CEL with no apparent reason.

Now its possible that it may have sustained damage I would change the oil to a 10W40, as said the magnatec is not liked, so any decent semi or fully synth should be fine, just keep your fingers crossed....oh and maybe fit an oil pressure gauge.

The VQ series started life in 1994 in lots of different JDM Nissans...not exactly anew engine design.

Will be keeping an eye on this build thread with interest, seems you where royally messed about by the "garage" that did the work, I would have been VERY surprised to find that Ryan had indeed made any **** ups regarding any tuning, in the 9 odd years I have resided on the Supra forum I have never heard a bad word about him, I have met him and talked a couple of times and was impressed with his knowledge. After all you don't get your flights and accommodation paid for all over the world for mapping unless you have some serious talent.