Tricky-Ricky

Can anyone recommend a nice cheap on line shop for a 2tb WD or Seagate HDD?

Even the std cats can struggle to pass.

What software were you using? What was the old NAS? It was a Net Gear Stora, was only using a single disc so no RAID mirror, I believe they use FXS, so that might cause a problem, I am starting to think that I might have to fit a new HDD to the new NAS and put the old HDD in a caddy and read and transfer via USB?

Following on from finding that my old NAS has died, and ordering a new but different make, I am now wondering if I will run into problems trying to run the old HDD with all my data etc on it in the new NAS, I am worried that it will want to delete and clean the old HDD during set up? any ideas?

Have you checked for low fuel pressure, and are you getting a good spark?

Nasty device, will do the motor no good at all, your engine has its own limiter, the bee r is just a toy to make the engine pop and bang and serves no real purpose, as said it will damage the engine, I have seen countless problems on other forums caused by these, if you want launch control, then get a decent stand alone ECU, or use your feet correctly.

Most decent paint suppliers will mix rattle cans for you, and you can specify whatever you want including polar hardener and flexy additives etc, but I will add that I have sprayed plenty of FRP body kits without using flexy additives and not had any problems with cracking, however if you do bash it on speed bumps etc it will likely crack regardless, as its the FRP that cracks under impact.

They are quite thin though and will no doubt flex a bit when I inevitably catch them on speed bumps? In that case just use a flexy additive in both the primer and colour, that should stop any cracking.

If that is in deed the case, its rather worrying that the work was carried out in order to pass an MOT, and although its no guarantee of road worthiness, it make me glad I never rely on mechanics,

Not sure for the Z I had the Skyline 350GT, but from what I remember its only the high beam that's HID/xenon, and I would suspect that the two extra wires are tied into the CAN bus system, so if connecting to the earlier headlights they may not be needed, so I would have thought that if the others are matched up, in theory it should work.

Although its a personal thing, the very fact that its been verified and documented by another mechanic as being potentially life threatening, add to this the fact that the original mechanic offered money because he knew he had seriously cocked up, would you want to take a car or recommend that garage to anyone that you didn't want to end un in an accident? It may well have been an honest mistake, however at the very least it should be reported to VOSA....would you not report incompetence by a medical practitioner? it amounts to the same thing, as they are both potentially life threatening.

Personally I would be reporting the garage to VOSA, and then follow up with legal action.

Theres no right or wrong choice its just a question of personal taste, DM is designed to take some of the shunt/shock out of the drive train, it just smooths out some of the shocks that are transmitted through the car, on a slower revving engine with plenty of torque IMO it always feels better to keep the DMF, but on a smaller high revving engine with less output a SMF would make things feel more directly connected and help build RPMs quicker.

Well I certainly spoke too soon when I mentioned my old net-gear Stora, lost the network connection and Internet connection with it yesterday...tried everything, several resets etc but its not having it, mind you it has been used constantly for the last eight odd years, so I have just ordered a ZyXEL NSA320S 2-Bay Power NAS for £50, looks like it should be a fair bit faster and a little more friendly to use.

LOL! don't get me started on kids today.......it worries me! suffice to say I embraced the advent of the Internet, I find it very interesting and such a useful tool, However despite the ready encyclopedic knowledge available for youngster's, I still think actually constructing and formulating your own interpretation of the subject your learning, via writing an account of your own perception of it, and by cross referencing recognised text books makes for a much better understanding of the subject, but perhaps I am just being old fashioned. Yes pen and paper...seems an age away..i couldn't type before the Internet I love tech, although I am far more savvy than most my age, I am not as familiar as some...got a friend my age who writes programs, but he;s rather protective of his skills, and wont clue me in Oh yeah! and yes I am an old git...got another 27 years on you

Good find! Its amazing just what you can find...I would be lost without the Internet, so much info and we take it for granted, I often go hunting for old or obscure info/pics etc.

You can paint it with just std 2K primer and colour, doesn't need a flexy additive unless its very thin and prone to a lot of movement, plastic primer is for ABS not FRP.

very much depends on what you want out of the car, and your driving style, if your the kind of driver that likes to drive as if he is on track all the time then you will probably like a single mass FW, but if you prefer to use the torque and lazy power of the engine you will prefer the std dual mass FW, personally I have used both types on a number of cars, and wouldn't bother with the single mass, there horrible on a big lazy motor that docent like to scream through the RPM, if you want this you have probably bought the wrong car, and should be driving a type R.

Video is private fella, couldn't view the other either, one thing to remember is that unless your using a dedicated Nissan reader, some others cannot read all the modules, so you only end up with half the picture, By what your now describing, I would say that you may have a problem with the ECU coolant temp sensor.

Just a heads up, if anyone needs a cheap option I have used the cheap xenon ballast that you can buy on ebay.

Sounds OK to me, however its quite difficult to give any definitive answers as to whether an engine if 100% OK via video, you also have to remember that these engines are all alloy so are rather noisy anyway.

Just buy yourself a cheap NAS, I have an old Net-gear Stora that takes two 2 terabyte HDDs, stores all I need plus all my movies which I can stream to the TV.

If you want it to stay on and not flake at a later date you need to throughly degrease it, fist with soap and water, dry and then with a decent spirit wipe, note the trouble starts when the plastic has had a silicone based cleaner used on it, its a sod to remove all traces, but there are proprietary removers. When your confident its nice a contaminate free, then use a plastics primer followed by primer and top coat and lacquer depending on what finish your after.

Don't get me started.... we would not have our current house if it wasn't for me being diligent and not easily deterred, as we bought a property 160 miles away we thought it would be prudent and convenient to use one of the lager local solicitors to handle things as it was a straightforward cash buy........how wrong we where! Daft bugger miss read the covenant that was on the property and if I hadn't done my own detective work, and the dam solicitors, we would have had to have pulled out of the buy, the galling thing was that we still had to pay them!

Std 2K gloss black.