Tricky-Ricky

Brings back some memories.

I found this forum, http://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/index.php its mostly RC but there are some very useful tips and info, and they can be quite helpful...if a little OTT, the Heng long 1/16 tanks can be had for as little as £60 so not bad. But expect to pay £200 + for Tamiya 1/16. I wasn't suggesting 1/8 and 1/4 scale as they are mostly home made but there are kits that start at the same price as making your Z SC,

There great fun, that one is a cheap ready built Heng Long RC model, but like everyone else I just pulled it apart and rebuilt and painted it to my own spec, I used my grandson as the excuse, but he is only two so we will have to wait a bit for more fun and it possibly ending up in the pond There are lots of other 1/16 tank kits the best being Tamiya but the price tag is considerable, check out the 1/8 and 1/4 scale ones onYou tube

Well I had a couple of pics of the tank, but just had to take some of the planes... forgot just how hard it is to get a decent shot in low light, so these are the best I could do..sorry!

LOL! everyone has their own interpretation of just how the ECU handles throttle opening control.

Yes you can adjust it, it wont cause wear etc, you will probably find it will also make the clutch pedal feel less stiff/hard because the helper spring is designed to work best over a certain angle, and the current adjustment is making it worse, however if this is not the case, you can also remove this, some find its better without.

Very nice! I have recently built a couple of models, some small scale planes..Spitfire, Hurricane and Stuka, and a large scale Mig 29 fantastic looking aircraft IMO, I also rebuilt a 1/16 scale RC Tiger tank, will see if I can find some pics.

Just change the final drive gearing, add some wide sticky tyres and your sorted.

Wing! for some reason I hit Y doh!

Today 12.55 Railway rd, sounded nice and had stance but the BGW was a bit OTT.

FWIW I think this is Internet hearsay, as lots of cars have a helper spring and its a simple matter of moving the drilled hole on the clutch pedal to adjust the fulcrum. It makes the movement more linear so my grandmother could operate the clutch - but badly. Not hearsay fella, I speak from direct experience, and yes its relatively easy to change the fulcrum point, if you know what your doing, http://www.350z-uk.c...40#entry1163127 The start switch can be bypassed, a very good idea IMO as it causes a lot of pressure on the crankshaft thrust bearings and because there is no real oil pressure in the very crucial seconds of start up, it can cause serious problems, I have seen a lot of reported thrust bearing failures as a result.

Since the std spring position is in a different place, you would need to strengthen the original shock mounts to be able to cope with the extra load, bit of a pain when you can get coil and shock setup which does exactly the same thing, there is no advantage in running a genuine coil over set up on the rear.

I would suspect that it may be a suppressor of some sort that's been added in order to prevent wine over the audio system.

Oil pressure is not retained at all, it simply drops as soon as the engine is not turning, as it a mechanical pump, it will definitely be the sender or the gauge.

One thing to note is that unless the pedal adjustment is correct the spring will make it feel worse that's why a lot of people remove them. but still a complete pain IMO.

The throttle controller tweaks the signal going to the ECU, up-rev adjusts the signal at the ECU, they both do the same, but the TC can ramp up the signal in order to make it feel like the throttle is being opened quicker, you sacrifice control for speed of opening, As I said kind of pointless as the TC was designed to achieve very similar results to removing the std ECUs throttle lag.

If your going for a remap the throttle opening limiter in the first three gears is removed anyway so save your money. Throttle controller has nothing to do with the throttle delay that the uprev removes, it simply amplifies the signal from the throttle to the ECU. So in short, Joker, but one if you like Incorrect, the so called throttle controller simply does exactly the same, it just achieves it differently to the Up-rev, if you fit one, or get the ECU remapped the result will be the same, so if you intend you intend to remap you will be wasting your money, how do you think the ECU controls the throttle opening %!

I think the only reason that there is a spring fitted is because Nissan designers got the fulcrum position wrong in the first place.

If your going for a remap the throttle opening limiter in the first three gears is removed anyway so save your money.

That's why my boyfriend disconnected his in his supra, it was more dangerous having it on sometimes (if you know the car's responses anyway). I think most owners do, once they have a taste of how it behaves, apart from removing the traction control ECU I also removed the actual secondary throttle, as its all more trouble than its worth, and once you go BPU or fit a single turbo its down right dangerous.

Not saying I'm 100% but pretty sure, its a common system, and has been use in one form or another on lots of cars, the worst one being the Toyota Supra MK IV they fitted a separate electronic throttle butterfly which was horrendous, as it would sense wheel spin if you try and squirt quickly out of a junction or roundabout and close the throttle plate, leaving you stranded in front of oncoming traffic.

That looks distinctly like a Chevy pick up behind your Z...is it yours?

I think you will find that the TCS uses a combination of the ABS and the electronic throttle to provide the control, and no fuel or ignition cut.

Yes as already said all modern cars from the mid 90s use fuel cut rather than ignition cut, but not all, a lot of Japanese cars previous to this used ignition cut, however if you fit a stand alone ECU most will allow you to set fuel or ignition for RPM limit and or launch.

Sticks and stones can break your bones...................but gnomes can never hurt you