Tricky-Ricky

Drop one of the traders here a PM.

Have they tested the rad to see if it flows OK? a partial blockage would give those symptoms, it could also be an air lock, however a mechanic should have no problems bleeding the system.

If it happens again read the fault code, as I suspect that unless the panel filter was very sub standard and would not flow the required amount of air, the filter change was just coincidental,

You do know that the seals can be replaced in situe by a garage with the right toll.

Whats the fault code? could be AFM, slightly blocked injector, I think the low fuel pressure is unlikely unless there is a separate pump and /or FPR for each bank? an air leak in the intake after AFM, or at the exhaust manifold could be the cause.

You mean you have a Skyline 350GT! although it could be an air lock or thermostat problems, by what you describe its starting to sound like a head gasket to me, the fact that it can sit and idle for and hour and then only overheat when the engine is put under load. I would run a sniffer test on the coolant, Has the engine recently badly overheated ?

Yes you need a DR2 bulb.

For the positive I just used a wing nut type bolt on as the + just un bolts from the std small clamp, and the negative I would advise getting the type with a cable clamp and cut the old small clamp of and fit the new one, but make sure you have enough cable.

The Bosch S4 026 is 70ah and 600 odd amp hours plenty for the VQ, and fits just right in the tray after removing the hump in the bottom, I was running full audio install plus reverse camera, and various other gadgets.

Sounds like your battery could be on its way out, have you measured the voltage, if you want to fit a larger battery is just a case of changing the size of the battery connectors and a slight adjustment to the tray and clamp, I did a write up about it on the Skyline forum, I see if I can find you a link. Here you go, http://www.skylineowners.com/forum/236-vq-electrics-ecu-ice/146836-battery-cable.html

You will still be reliant on the accuracy of the standard temp sender, but whether its that or the gauge that's the weak link..........

I would go for an accurate oil pressure gauge, an oil temp, and an accurate water temp gauge so you can catch it before it badly overheats when the rad fan motors pack up.

Like it! but they are starting to look like Aston Martins.

I wont say it but glad you got it sorted in the end.

I'm afraid it needs changing, it WILL looseten if not tight, due to vibration and the motion of the pulley, if you need to drive it somewhere to get it fixed then see if you can find another nut of the same thread and tighten against the old one as there looks like there is just enough thread, but I wouldn't be driving it too far.

What often happens is that one motor goes intermittent or fails, but its not often noticed if you don't sit in traffic often, as the airflow through the rad when moving is enough to keep the temp down.

Because when a new clutch is fitted it will change the bite point due to more friction material, if the pedal has been adjusted to compensate for a worn clutch, what can happen is that the bite point is then too high and the plate release springs are still under tension, which can lead to clutch slip, so it will need to be readjusted.

It will probably be the rad fan motors failed, its a common problems, check to see if they both come on when air con is switched on with a hot engine.

I guess they need to be fitted in the seats to be effective in that case.

As I said on the last three posts you created about fitting a Kenwood HU and amp and finding the speakers didn't work, it sounds to me like you need to take the car to an audio specialist, or have you now figured out the connection's and got it all working?[/i] To achieve a decent audio set up in a car you really don't need more than a decent pair of front and rear speakers plus tweeters and a sub-woofer, and some would just advocate just two and a sub, quantity does not equal quality.

Std =185 psi minimum =142 psi maximum difference between cylinders 14 psi.

Doesn't hurt to double check things, no disrespect to the OP, yes wedging open the throttle allows maximum air flow into all cylinders, I just found the 45psi difference on cylinder 5 a bit excessive, so could well be worn rings, however given the mileage I would have been inclined to wet test the rest just to see, however as I said its a pretty good figure for the mileage. a leak-down test would give a more comprehensive idea of the condition.

RIP a great man...Star Treak win never be the same.

The fact that the two tests show pretty different figures is a bit odd, especially cylinder 6, how did you conduct the test? normal procedure would be to use a fully charged battery, in the case of the Z pull the fuel pump or injector fuse, wedge the throttle fully open and remove all plugs, and make sure you turn the motor over at least 6 times for all cylinders. The fact that cylinder 5 went from 174 to 220 with oil (how much did you use?) is rather worrying, the figures themselves are not bad for a cold engine and the mileage, I usually run a hot and cold test to see how much change there is.

Thought I had replied to this?.......maybe there is another thread?