Tricky-Ricky

As said I wouldn't advise driving and then trying to clean before spraying the lacquer, generally speaking depending on paint type you would let the base coat flash off and then spray the lacquer, same goes for subsequent coats of lacquer if you spray them. Just to clarify, what I mean by flash off is just letting the previous coat evaporate the solvents, it doesn't have to be thoroughly dry, as you wont be touching it between coats if spraying over base/colour coat or lacquer.

The sump is the best place as you get a more stable and overall oil temp, fitting somewhere in the pressure side will usually reflect the temp at the point of the sensor which can vary quite a lot..

Far too many to pick just one! And yes I am a grumpy old git...just ask the wife.

I would start by swapping the oil filter you fitted with another, just in case its causing a restriction, and as said check the functionality of the PCV system as this can also cause smoke if its malfunctioning, What grade of oil was in there before the change? unless you where using 10w50 or 60 I cant see the oil causing the smoke.

I am a little flummoxed by that, I have always used that formula on all my turbo cars, and it has worked fine, but there have been exceptions, I have a set of 570cc injectors that when I had them cleaned and flow tested came back at 630cc. I see your point with SC needing more fuel from the off, so not sure quite how the std injectors can flow enough fuel, I know the more modern injectors and ECUs can handle much finer control than older tech so maybe its down to that.

I'm not sure. I don't really know what to say to you other than the power is dyno proven at 430bhp. Possibly they're not 380cc as the kit was 2nd hand and taken from another 350Z. I'm sure they are lager also, wasn't knocking your 350 fella just a little incredulous, anyway not too many twin turbo Z about, if you go for the Cosworth block you will have the basis for some serious power with the right turbos and ancillaries, in the region of 650bhp is possible.

If your not getting any audio interference, then there is no need to refit.

Missed this, yes it will be under suppressor, couldn't think of the proper term when I posted.

The general formula for possible power v injector size is 1cc = 1BHP and not to run the injectors at more than 85% duty cycle to give the injectors some head room for safety, so in order to run 430BHP at 85% duty cycle you would need to have 500cc injectors installed. Even the best mappers cant make power where there is not enough fuel, are you certain that the injectors fitted are only 380cc?

Sorry fella but quite how your running 430BHP on 380cc injectors I really don't know, but miracles do happen I guess. What ECU and who mapped it?

They are generic, you should be able to pic one up at your local factor.

Lol......took me long enough but Tricky answered it twice! http://www.350z-uk.c...ternator-query/ Thought I had a distinct feeling of deja vu while I typed that.

If its a coil pack, they will most likely show up most under load IE when cylinder pressures are highest, so unless a code is stored, you really need to live monitor them.

It will be a damper to stop whine from the charging circuit being heard through the audio system.

Looks like a mix an match job to me, part 60s Ford pick up and some station wagon.

They are platinum so you could either stick with them, shouldn't be more than £25-35 a set, or you can just go for copper core equivalent at about £10-16 a set.

Only just seen this reply, yes Jez will know just whats needed, however I just had a look at the Mishimoto can and the one that I saw should be big enough, if its around the 1lt mark, however there are a couple of things that I am not at all sure about, one is that it mentions it has a 40 micron filter, I wouldn't use it just because of this, its asking to become blocked very quickly ( a reason why early PCV systems became blocked and malfunctioned) and not necessary, The fact that the can is mounted remotely is much better at getting oil and water vapor to drop out, so a simple baffle screen, and/or stainless scourers works just as well if not better, so don't fit an additional in line filter. The second was price, you can pick up a perfectly good can from ebay for £40 rather than £90-210. 10mm hose is not big enough IMO, I would use 12mm or better still 15mm, with no one ways or filter, if you going to vent to atmosphere then just a short length of hose pointing under the car or a filter fitted to the can outlet, but as I said before your far better making use of the intakes natural vacuum, by taking the outlet hose back to the SC/turbo intake.

The link is in my post, on a boosted application I would always go for a bigger can, as it will aid with oil drop out, I would also go for bigger hoses at least 12 to 15mm, as this will also help, also on any application and even more so on boosted, I would always plump the outlet hose of a catch can back into the inlet (pre SC/turbo) as it will make good use of the PCV, which in turn helps with ring and oil seal weep. GM the reason I advocated not using the Rutland can is one because its basically a compressor water trap, that's not to say it doesn't work as a can, but primarily because it doesn't have the necessary volume to have good oil drop out, which needs a certain amount of cooling to be really effective, and that's especially important ifs sealed can and the outlet is plumbed back into the intake as mentioned above. BB81 I can probably do you a diagram if you want.

I did a write up here, http://www.350z-uk.c...ng#entry1342281 I would junk the std idle/low load side (the one with the non return valve) and block the plenum spigot, as I explain in the thread, it just adds oil to the equation. You don't need two cans but it simplifies things if you just use one, of a decent size (forget the Rutland one its too small to be useful) with baffles and/or filled with stainless scourers, best type if you can find one is a sealed unit with two or three hose connections, you can T the two from the cam covers together and into the catch can, and then run the outlet to the intake just before the supercharger, this will make the most of the positive crankcase evacuation.

Copper core = 6-10K mls Platinum = 20-30K mls Iridium = 30-60k mls

Well the std recommended plugs for the DE are platinum, I personally wouldn't recommend using iridium plugs for mapping, but that's a personal thing, I always use basic copper core, but in any case there is no performance advantage with any plug, its just a case of longevity, platinum and iridium are intended for longer service life in applications where plug changing is a PITA.

Never really had any particular comment's on the 350GT other than "what a great car" but had a couple of people get out of my supra looking rather pale around the gills, one was my daughters boyfriend who after leaving town and getting on the A roads took a death grip on the Jesus handle and uttered "oh shite" a few times, while my daughter pi**ed herself laughing in the back seat.

Steering rack gaiter, but by the look of it you have a leak from the steering rack itself, so it going to need a new seal at minimum and could need a rebuild.

Are you taking fuel amount or fuel pressure? fuel pressure is not held for more than a minute or two after switching off the engine.

Looks great if you want selfies of when somebody runs into you.