Tricky-Ricky

If you fit the blue Emange the std ECU will just keep trying to dial out the tweaked values, the std ECU will always try and keep things adjusted to the pre determined limits. I looked into the possibility of using EMU and similar on my VQ engine, but after some research I shelved the idea and was going the full Up-Rev and self tune.

Sorry! I just object to all the fallacies banded about the function of various parts, but yes your right I agree, if you perceive a benefit regardless if its measurable, then I guess its has done its job, and if its shiny or colourful then even better.

So called engine dampers do NOT increase anything bar vibration, unless they are actually a damper, and not a cobbled together bits of hard rubber and a couple of thick washers. If you need to fit one then your std engine mounts are fooked, if anyone tells you any different they are just trying to sell you some engine jewelry.

All the engine dampers I have seen will just end up transmitting extra vibration and noise into the cabin, If you really want to fit one that actually damps, then fit a mountain bike damper, that should actually do something toward damping, and not transmit all the vibration to the cabin, all of the so called dampers are just a solid piece of metal wedged between two bits of solid rubber, as said if you want to stop engine flex, go for uprated mounts.

The 5w30 oil that's specified is as much for economy as for anything else, going from 5w30 to 5w40 wont cause a problem, least of all a valve stem seal, unless it was seal involving oil pressure, but even so the increase in oil pressure wont be much. Switching to a thicker oil on a high mileage engine is an old trick to bump up the oil pressure slightly, mind you I wouldn't call 130K particularly high mileage, and the oil shouldn't really need going to 10w50 unless there is considerable wear.

Always makes me chuckle when people are suddenly surprised that shock horror...their car is not the fastest thing on the road, Just enjoy the drive, if you think about it that's why you bought this car...isn't it? If you want the fastest thing on the road, then you either need to prepared to invest a LOT of money in your middle of the road sports coupe (sorry guys) or just buy a supercar.

I thought I suggested a partially blocked rad some time ago, has this not been checked then?

Water temp will not give an accurate indication of oil temps, the hotter the oil the more the pressure will drop IF the bearings are starting to wear, Using thicker oil should not damage the engine, it will in effect add more drag, as I said your oil pressure is still within spec so its up to you, using 1lt over 9K is not bad, some engines will burn certain types of oil quicker than others.

Thicker oil grade will often help with a worn smokey engine, and increase oil pressure slightly, however its not a fix, if the rings are worn it will still smoke, just not as much, I would run a compression and leak down test to see if thats actually your problem, but if your saying that the oil pressure has dropped considerably, its a pretty good sign of general engine wear. I would also cut oil changes to 6K rather than 9K, I would normally change oil at 6K regardless.

The face plates are know to fail they have a couple of resistors in them, internet will not be affected as it uses a different kind of signal.

Whats your current oil grade? if its the recommended 5w30, then I would only go up to a 5 or10W40 and not 50. Your oil pressure is within spec.

Kind of depends if your trying to get air in or air out? if in they need to be in a high air pressure area, if out then they need to be in a low pressure area, so the best method is to have corresponding in and out vents.

The fuel pump is in the tank, you need to check the fuel pressure if you suspect a problem, the figures and procedure is in the manual, you can find this at www.nicoclub.com. As for symptoms, you would see hesitation on acceleration, and general poor performance.

Only just seen this, yes definitely blended paint/lacquer, its had fairly extensive repair somewhere in its life, and as said only a respray will fix, sorry!

guessing the muppit didn't realise the 2jz was available in lots of other cars than his precision supra Don't get picky about Supras....or I have to remind you where the VQ engine came from. a nissan people carrier haha I don't think there is anyone here that nieave. and who is Clarkson The VQ engine made its debut as a humble 2lt in this,

guessing the muppit didn't realise the 2jz was available in lots of other cars than his precision supra Don't get picky about Supras....or I have to remind you where the VQ engine came from.

All forums have their err quirks, I have been a member of several forums including the Supra forum, they can be a little off, and there are some that are very intolerant, I think its a case of you have to fit in, I had some very harsh responses when I first joined 10 years ago, and have seen the same happen to others.

Valve stem seals will usually show up most on cold start, and deceleration I wrote a guide to various PCV and catch tank setups here,http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/89535-oil-catch-can/#entry1349925 PCV systems are designed to provide a vacuum effect to the crankcase at all RPMs and loads to prevent any pressure build up, and actually help with stopping seal weeping and piston ring seal, I disagree that there is always pressure in the crankcase, as I have actually measured this on a couple of different motors both with std PCV systems and modified versions, using catch cans plumbed back into the intake, and at no time did I measure any positive pressure, so they obviously do there job.

Not quite sure what you mean by "overrun"? but if your referring to closed throttle, this means that no fuel is being injected so in theory you shouldn't get any pops/bangs, normally any air leaks in your exhaust will cause the said bangs, which is quite often the case, I think your maybe referring to valve overlap, often fitting higher lift/longer duration cams will cause this effect as the scavenging effect on an N/A engine will cause unburnt fuel to be ignited in the exhaust.

Oil control rings don't normally wear without the compression rings being worn also ( unless you have a rev up motor ) so a compression test will show up ring wear,smokingg under load isusuallyy ring/bore wear related, I have not heard of a blocked PCV system on the VQ motor, however they do inhale a lot of oilvaporr at idle/low load, which pools on the bottom of the plenum, which under high load is likely to get drawn into the combustion process and burnt,causingg smoke. If you want to eliminate this, I would fit a catch can to the low load side of the PCV system, ( the left hand cam cover) remove the one way valve and run a hose to the can, you can vent to air or use the intake to provide thevacuume which aids ring seal, don't forget to block off the plenum pipe.

You shouldn't get blue smoke unless the PCV system is blocked or not functioning correctly, t could be bad ring seal,try a compression test. Personally would leave the PCV system alone, or at least plump a catch can in and run that back to the intake to retain the beneficial effects of it.

I think you will find that the "overrun" sound that your talking about is the sound that the exhaust is designed to give, you wont achieve anything like it by remapping. If you want pops and bangs then your best bet is to fit an independent flamer kit...or drill a hole in the exhaust.

Hello mate, in reply to your PM..... on the left side of the engine the hose goes from the cam cover where the catch can is attached to a small spigot on the lower front of the plenum, it will have a cap or blocked tube, make sure the cam cover still has the one way valve. The other cam cover that the second catch can hose is attached to goes from there to the intake tube,just before the throttle body, trouble is you have eliminated the std one which has the spigot for attaching the hose, will try and find you some pics

With all modern engines the tolerance's are set so as the engine requires pretty much no run in period, ring seal will be achieved in a very short time anyway due to the machining furnish of the bores, IE quite rough, most race engines are never run in or just bedded with a quick engine dyno run, with modern materials, machining techniques and oils, running in is a thing of the past, and the VQ series is no exception.

Looking good, and good progress, your going to have so much fun upsetting some rather expensive sports cars.