Tricky-Ricky

Try cleaning all the engine bay earths, and the battery earth point, induction air leaks, have a careful listen around the plenum joint, and the vacuum hoses, if your satisfied that there are none, try resetting/relearning the throttle, there should be a thread on this procedure if you do a search.

What grade oil was in it before the service, and what was put in it at the service? if it had been a higher viscosity before and a lower viscosity used at the service, that could account for the oil pressure readings...although a drop of say 10w40 to 10w30 shouldn't make that much difference.

I would remove and clean all earth connections you can find, corrosion can cause havoc with the CAN bus error system, the other thing to check is the IPDM in the engine bay and the BCM in the passenger side kick panel, any leaks and water ingress in these areas can cause a host of problems with these units.

You will need 3 to 5 amp transformer for each run of LEDs, the only awkward bit will be hiding the transformers, and you will need to run an extra set of wires for the other PIR if your intending to have one at the top and bottom of the stairs, I see no problem with running a permanent live to the transformers, I run several like this using remote switches without problem, but be warned some of the cheap Chinese transformers don't last very well.

Unfortunately its a shame that people are not more condemning of the far more dangerous driving practices that are seen on our roads every day, which to me are far more of a hazard than a high speed pass on a clear DC, its just that our government like to make some of the more pleasurable things we enjoy into heinous anti social crimes...shame they are not so hot on the ones that really matter.

I'm sure we have all done it, when we have rightly or wrongly judged the place and conditions to be worth the risk, unfortunately the OP got caught, a good solicitor and some mitigating circumstance's may of may not help, so maybe we should give him a break, the phrase "there but for the grace of god" springs to mind here.

If you where banged to rights......why fight it? it will just cost you more when you loose

Not really worth it on a N/A, pure meth would need mapping for to be of any use, and then not enough to make it worthwhile, water/meth 50/50 wont give any performance gains, its more for charge and in cylinder cooling on a FI motor.

Just been out and bought Witcher 3 after finding that Elder scrolls on line was not free to play now, doh should have done my research, and after a quick play and finding its just two crowded for my taste, even without the other players, just kept getting killed by everything, but I must say some of the scenery is fantastic.[/b] Anyway Witcher 3 from the deceptions and game play it looks more up my street, so after I finish/get bored with fallout 4 I will start it....if I can resist waiting that long.

Nor me! hence my comment.

I feel sorry for both!

That's either the pedal itself or more likely the pivot for the clutch arm, try pulling the rubber boot of it and spry some wd40 on it, as I doubt you will be able to get to it to actually get some grease on it, and you don't want to be spraying oil at the clutch plate.

Very sad news, RIP Martin.

Squeal is often a dry release bearing which is sealed so cant be lubed, just replaced, it can also be a dry spigot bearing, but that's usually more a rumble/rattle.

Kind of funny that this all started with it being relatively cheap to gain N/A power from the DE...but now the cost is not so much an issue.

Yeah I have seen that one a few times, however I have to say that he has put a LOT of time and money into that engine, and from what I know its nowhere near std ...lots of internal work and parts, but I am not saying it cant be done, just that the claims for the headders and cams are not going to make the extra 60 crankshaft bhp increase needed for that figure.

One further question I would have to ask is that IF the std DE is so easy to make power from, then why do people struggle to make more than 300 flywheel BHP with plenum spacer, ducats and exhausts from an UpRev remap? Surly the addition of headders and long duration cams even if they are 300deg duration which is pretty high in my books, are then not any higher lift as well? So your saying that this can make 320BHP at the wheels? so that would have to be being completely conservative 360BHP at the crank? sorry but I am still incredulous. Going by what your saying Either the Uprev tuners in the UK are short changing us, or they are far better in the US....wish I had bought the UpRev software myself now and seen what I could achieve with the DE.

When you do this to your own engine, and log ALL the costs and produce a dyno plot from a known tuner in the UK, or better still an engine dyno plot, then I will start to take your claims a little more seriously, but I'm afraid I have seen far too many outlandish claims from US tuners and their dyno plots to take them with more than a pinch of salt, I would be very interested to hear what Mark at Abbey, or Jez Horsham had to say on this subject, I believe that Abbey has a race tuned Z with a pokey DE in it....I wonder what the development cost of that engine was.

Its not shooting down, its common sense! if you read through that link it has 300deg duration cams, and ITBs so all the valve gear would need changing, and I would suspect piston cur outs for the lift, new springs retainers, you would also need to increase the rev limit to actually use that cam profile, so more strengthening needed, add to this extensive porting along with a really decent map (would the std \ECU be suitable?) so maybe stand alone, plus dyno tune time, you could certainly spend 20K doing all that, which is why you don't see a lot of highly tuned DE N/As outside tuning shops. Its basically cheaper to add a supercharger kit or turbos to get more power, a no brainer to me.

I think you will need a lot lower offset to get the wheels fairly flush, I ran 10x19 on my G35 (not sure how similar the arches are, but close I would imagine) they where +22 offset, and in order to get them flush I used a 20mm spacer, so +2 offset, mind you that was pretty close to the arch.

Both R34GTT and GTR have slightly better/tougher engines than the R33s, pop over to the Skyline forum if you want to pick peoples brains, although its pretty quiet these days.

Out of interest, what car is it?

Sooo..... 340 bhp at the wheels would mean taking into consideration drive train losses, would mean a minimum of 380bhp at the flywheel.... :lol:

Interesting thanks for the tips, I am only just at the car factory trying to sort out the raiders, and I have died about four times just on that, I am at level 6, seems to level up quite quick but I still haven't got into the perks yet.

I will always try and do a compression test if the owner will approve,and even better if you can do one cold and then hot it will give a good indication of bore wear and ring seal,but that's all, if you want to know more a leak down test is the way to go, but your not going to be carrying a compressor around.