Tricky-Ricky

Unless there is a corresponding increase in engine efficiency, more power will always equal more waste heat (basic thermodynamics). Just as a matter of background, oil temperature sensors were not installed on early VQ37DE motors, but were installed on the Rev-up and VQ35HR versions. There is a fault code for engine overtemperature - P1217. This code has a one-trip detection logic for turning on the CEL, but as pointed out, does not result in the engine running in limp home mode. The service manual lists several possible caused, but concentrates on the cooling fans as the most likely cause. Err you where the one who mentioned limp mode! The P1217 code is coolant temp triggered, and as engines are designed to run an ideal oil temp or 90-100c the cooling system is designed to accommodate this, regardless of power output, FI engines produce more heat regardless of power output, yet they still run the same temps. The fact that Nissan didn't add a modene to the HR is kind of daft, was the coolant system expanded to try and offset this?

Very sad state of affairs even if just one point is true, and I thought the DE had its problems, you would expect the HR to be a natural progression.

Here in the States, when the 370 first came out, several folks had oil temperature problems during track days, resulting in the engine going into limp mode. The 370 makes more power, therefore more heat, than the 350, and doesn't even have the oil-to-water cooler that the early 350s have. Nissan may have felt that oil temperature had become a serious enough issue to warrant a separate gauge, since oil pressure at leas has an idiot light. Interesting! first I knew about the HR motor not having an oil modene, if that's the case I'm not surprised that cars overheated when driven hard on a track day, however just because an engine develops more power it doesn't necessarily follow that it will also produce more heat. However the reasoning behind Nissan's decision to fit an oil temp gauge in place of an oil pressure gauge is not very sound IMO, and I am surprised, as practically all modern oils are rated up to and beyond 120-130c, generally speaking engines are designed to maintain a hot oil temp of 90-100c in order to evaporate any water vapor formed at lower temps, along with other acidic compounds formed as a by product of the combustion process that gets into the crankcase and consequentially into the oil. So quite why Nissan would choose to fit a temp gauge over pressure I don't know, and if the temp probe is indeed linked to the ECU and prompts limp mode due to over temp, rather than coolant temp which would also rise if oil temp was indeed way too high, it would also result in lower oil pressure too....I am baffled as to Nissan's reasoning.

I don't agree, pressure is a very useful gauge of engine condition, a gradual drop in pressure could indicate thinning of the oil from over temp, or over a longer period bearing wear, and a sudden drop oil pump or pressure relief problems, oil temp will alert you to none of these, sure a pressure triggered low pressure light will tell you that you have low oil pressure but that's all, and it will likely be too late to stop damage, oil temp gauge will only tell you its too hot too cold or correct, nothing more unless you know your engines behavior. If its a worry for some owners having a pressure gauge to monitor, its just the same with a temp gauge, so they are probably better off with neither.

Personally I would much rather know what the oil pressure was, rather than the temp, on an N/A engine it very unlikely to get to temp that would cause concern unless you wringing its neck on a track day.

Type of bike aside I would also budget for some expert road craft and safety training on todays roads, far too many idiots around who have no idea about bikes.

Two ways to do it, although you wont really notice any gain or loss, either fit the std air box and free flow panel filter, but you will loose any induction noise, or extend the tube from the AFM so it takes the filter down to where it will receive some cold airflow from the front of the car, but with a minimal risk if you should encounter a flooded road.

API and ACEA along with manufactures codes all explained here, http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained

Agreed! bench tuning the ECU although the up rev can be done like this I suspect its not up rev software, especially since the price is cheap, I would lay money he wont get that sort of BHP, and if he is making that sort of claim why no dyno to prove it? As for the cat monitor sensor delete, the best way is to have them turned off via up rev, but you can run without them, you will just get a constant CEL, but as they are not normally used except when there are other problems it wont cause any issues.

Yes fitting to one side will only read that bank of cylinders, which is why I used a double sensor setup, I thought you said that you had an up rev tune, and that the cat monitor sensors where turned off? So there is no need to have them fitted other than for blocking the apertures. I presume the pic is of some odd resonated decats, so yes the sensor position on those are not ideal. If you are running a two into one system and not true twin then yes your better off welding in a take off where the two pipes join, but as mentioned already if you already have a tune the wide band setup/gauge is just as a monitor, if there was a major problem you would see a CEL from the ECU lambda sensors.

Are you trying to fit a aftermarket wide-band sensor and gauge setup? if so you can fit to the decats as the std cat monitor sensors are turned off, I have used twin wide-bands in the std cats, and it does mess with the AFR reading slightly, but not enough to make a big difference, but with decats it will read correctly.

Geometry most definitely, secondly tyres, I have owned cars with twice the BHP and torque of the Z and not had traction problems ....unless I wanted them of course.

I wouldn't worry too much about oil if you just need to top up, most modern oils are well up to spec, even the cheap ones as long as its the correct grade, but being a rev up if you find it smokes a bit when you change the oil to 10w 30, then fill with 10w40, as some rev ups tend to burn oil, and some fully synth oils don't help the condition. But as said don't let it run low.

LOL! looks like this is heading into the old "stanced don't handle" argument.

Have you tried removing and cleaning the earth points? Its not a case of the std earths not being up to it, there are enough and they work, if you look up galvanic corrosion you will see why a lot of car earths cause problems over time, and as I said CAN bus is very sensitive to voltage and current variations, I do wonder if its a nice little earner for main dealers.

Earthing kits = bling nothing else unless you cant be bothered to clean up the std earth points, people only have bad idle and other electrical problems when the earth points get corroded and increase resistance, which causes a lot of problems on CAN bus equipped cars, which just about covers all cars these days. But give it a few more years until your nice earth kits earthing points also corrode and you back at square one.

Replied!

Just to point out that the oil needs to reach a minimum of 90c and preferably 100c or water vapor etc are not re evaporated, so most coolers need covering in cold weather to avoid over cooling which is just as bad, if not worse that getting too hot, and if not your better off without one, also remember that there is a constant small flow of oil through the cooler from a thermostatic plate anyway to avoid thermal shock.

If you can avoid fitting in front of the FMIC I would as its going to cut down its efficiency, don't know what size oil cooler you intend fitting, but it shouldn't need to be very big if your only supercharged as they don't add anywhere as much heat to the oil as a turbo.

I think my next port of call would be Trading Standards, and also let them hear a copy of the dash cam recording.

Can you remove them? if so if you can try scratching the reverse side, if it scratches with little effort it alloy if not it stainless, trouble is if its anodised alloy you wont be able to polish out without making it look rubbish, you also mat struggle if its brushed stainless, as you need to find something to mimic the original finish.

Replied to your PM, hope that helps.

. Yes I would say stainless, if the scratches are deep then you will need to use some 600 wet n dry then ideally it wants polishing on a buffer, however you could try Solvol or a paint cutting compound However if its chrome then you will not be able to polish back without removing the finish.

Are you sure its chrome? looks like stainless or even alloy to me, have you got a close up?