Tricky-Ricky

You can buy a gauss rifle at the robot trader in Goodneighbor, I'm enjoying the overseers guardian at the moment, you don't often need another shot.

The very fact that the HR sports two throttle body's would indicate to me that Nissan have at least designed the plenum to flow enough to actually Need the two throttles.

Perhaps if the duals where smaller dia, and attached to properly designed headers that aided extraction, but in order for an exhaust to work and actually help make power you have to be able to get more air into the engine, which is pretty hard won on an N/A,

Had the blaster for some time now, very handy for dealing with deathclaws, got a few bobbleheads, guess I could hunt some more, I'll have a look at the youtube vids and see if they can inspire me.

I think I have just about discovered all locations, other than just wondering about killing raiders, mutants etc I am not sure what else there is?

I am at level 46, not sure how far it goes, but must be at least 50, I met and interacted with all the factions, until I reached a point where agreeing with one of them made you an enemy of one of the others.

Finally finished Fallout 4 last night, bit of an anti-climax really, went with the Institute, will have to go back and play out the other scenarios, anyone found anything further you can do once its all over?

After a quick search apparently the block take off thread is 1/8"BSPT which is a taper thread, but most oil pressure gauge take offs are 1/4" or 1/8" bsp or bspt.

Should be 1/4"BSP the T on that page should be OK, the std pressure sensor may be a fine metric thread cant remember off hand but they should be able to recommend the correct size when you order.

I think the secret is to be careful when you fit and remove the dipstick, as it so easy to smear on the way out, it also pointless on uneven ground, getting the stick in the right light helps a lot as the oil will reflect, failing that on awkward dipsticks I have cleaned thoroughly and used an indelible marker on it, its makes the oil easier to see, it does come off after a while but does no harm.

Kind of depends on how long after driving you check the level, bare in mind that the oil has been well distributed around the engine and will hang around until it drains back to the sump, however hot oil will drain down fairly quickly, so I would expect after 10 mins you would get a reasonable idea of the true level, and once cold it will rise just a little.

Its all looking really good, those ramps are a real nice addition, and my condolences on loosing your dad fella.

A lot will depend on where the std or aftermarket air filter draws in cold air, some cars have this quite low down.

Are the new spec headlits indicator bulbs LED? if not and there is no bulb out then check the relay.

I think the bottom line of this thread is that the first pic and comment is a case of what CAN happen if you continually run your DE on low octane fuel, rather than what WILL happen, most modern ECUs are quite capable of controlling the effects of using the wrong fuel grade, even for long periods of time PROVIDING the engine is used with a little consideration and mechanical sympathy. Don't forget that most manufactures consider the general driving populace as complete cretin's and would probably be right 80% of the time, (present company excepted) and try and design there cars with this in mind.

I really don't think the main risk lies at over 5K revs. Let me explain....first of all you'd be risking a hefty fine if you use 5K in any gear from 4th to 6th and even in 3rd you can easily exceed the national 60 speed limit. The thing is that very few of us will use 5k for any prolonged period. No, the main cause of detonation would come by working the engine hard at low revs up long hills. It's all very well toodling along at 30 in 5th on a flat road on next to zero throttle but flooring it at such low speeds puts a massive strain on the engine and there's always the temptation not to change gear .I can remember back before the day actually asking my dad what that noise was climbing steep hills on our Sunday run out in Wales....pinking he replied, never really understood it until I got my first car. Pete That's also partially incorrect I;m afraid, while knock can occur at low speed/rpm, at under 5K the ECU and knock sensors will detect knock and retard ignition timing until such a time as its no longer detected for a certain amount of time (pre programed into the ECUs maps) then it will gradually increase the timing to the original settings, thereby protecting the engine form pre ignition. Now proper detonation takes place when the flame front is preceded by hot spots which ignite the mixture ahead of the flame front, which is caused by either too much compression for the fuel octane being used and/or the ignition timing being too far advanced or retarded, now what you have to remember is that if you using low octane fuel the ECU is already retarded the ignition timing to reduce the knock that is already indubitably taking place, so its not going to impact the after 5K rpm/loads as badly as it would if it was not already retarded therefor protecting the engine from damage. Not the best explanation but hopefully gets the point across.

Its certainly possible for the makers to tailor an individual map to the country and fuel that country uses, however would they bother? It also wont be widely advertised that the std ECU does not monitor knock over 5K, and with the comments made about Ireland, its highly likely that motors don't get taxed performance wise, and its highly likely that even in the UK motors just don't get hammered when using lower octane fuel, so the perhaps 3 to 5% of reported engine failures due to det damage is actually pretty reflective of the truth. After all you would need to be pretty brutal to keep the engine over 5K danger zone on the road while using low octane fuel, it would be interesting to find out if anyone has seriously drifted or tracked a Z on low octane fuel, but then who in their right mind is going to do that.

Not a fair comparison really, as most JDM turbo cars seem to run very rich at full throttle as a safety feature, Having said that my JDM DE motor seemed to run rather lean in comparison going by my data logs of the fuelling AFRs.

If the Irish Z is different in any way, it would have to be the ECU mapping, however there is no evidence of this,unless an Irish tuner can comment? The only other option to use lower octane fuel is to lower compression ratio, and I cant see this. And I really cant see them using a different octane scaling , so you have to either draw the conclusion that there is no difference in ECUs and the Z will happily run on 91 and 95 octane , or they just don't drive fast in Ireland As we know from tuners like Mark at Abbey the std ECUs runs no knock control after 5K rpm, so that being the case you would expect to see far more engine failures from detonation damage.

If your only doing 2.5 mls, the engine is still in cold start mode, IE it never reaches normal running temp, so the fuelling will be richer by default, this will be compounded by the colder temps we have been having, so it will take even longer to warm up, so your fuel consumption will also rise. I take it you haven noticed any CELs? otherwise I would say you have a lambda or ECU coolant temp sensor problem which will also cause rich mixture and increase fuel consumption

That's the one yeah I was addicted at one point, great game.

That reminds me of a game that I used to play a lot on the PS2, just cant remember the name, it was set on the Tokyo motorways and you basically street raced any car you came across,

Surely just fitting a larger TB to the std plenum will defeat the object, as the plenum intake that the throttle bolts to will act as a restriction as its the same size as the std TB, also engine vacuum is a by product of the TB as its the metering for control of RPM, so there will always be a vacuum until the engines dynamic pumping ability limit is reached.

Oil in plug wells is usually a result of leaking cam-cover seals.

Its not necessary, all resetting the ECU does is to erase the short term fuel and timing trims and forces the ECU to re learn them and idle, the ECU will automatically relearn any addition you add without the need for resets.