Tricky-Ricky

Oh dear! anyone would think this is facebook.

You don't necessarily need an expansion tank, if the system is designed to run without IE it can take the pressure, and the rad cap is of a higher pressure its fine, cars never used to run an expansion tank, its just a good way of ensuring that the system is always toped up should the system overheat. Having said that the Z system IS designed to run with an expansion tank, so in order to run without yours must have a higher pressure rad cap, so I would refit the correct type of tank and the std rad cap.

I don't know of a garage that doesn't have oxy-acetylene and isn't afraid to use it on an exhaust system that has seized or stubborn nuts, you don't waste time trying to save exhaust system nuts, you cut them off and replace if they are being refitted, which they usually are not, it should have been off in 15 mins...they are taking the ****, or are incompetent.

My money is on the fans, they are notorious for going intermittent once the commutator gets worn and carboned up.

With a ramp and a torch, the stuck nuts should have been no bother, I have removed and fitted a 350GT exhaust on the floor with jacks and stuck nuts in less than 3 hours.

You only really need a smaller gap when either the motor is running high compression and/or the motor is boosted, generally with modern ignition systems there is sufficient power to accommodate a reasonably large gap without loss, tired coil packs will likely reduce spark intensity, so running a smaller gap will likely restore the lost power, which I would suspect your noticing.

Deep breath... my saga started with taking two years to sell a flat in the south coast, took that long because it had a not overly long self repairing lease, which for those that don't know is used more on commercial property, and put your average buyer off big time, but is however not such a big deal in practice, but I laterally had to do a lot of research and convince the eventual buyer that its wasn't a problem. We spent about a year looking for a property that we could afford in the south east, but eventually gave up because due to rising prices at the time, we could not afford the type property and situation that we wanted, so as we have a friend who lives in Norfolk, we thought we would shift our attention to the Lincolnshire and Norfolk areas, Took a three day trip and looked at about 25 properties, at the end of this the wife had a meltdown and said I'm not moving, a month goes by while she calms down and rethinks it, and we start looking again in Norfolk, a property comes up that had first caught the wife eye a while before, but was taken off the market, anyway we book to look at another 10 houses the favourite included, which just happened to be the last view on the list. As it turned out the wife loved it and I was quite impressed, so on the journey back we decided to make an offer, first one rejected but took the second, and that's where it all started.......... The people who we where buying from where a little strange, but seemed pleasant and initially helpful, and where happy to answer various questions from the wife regarding certain measurements for curtains etc., then the other parties wife suddenly got all odd and accused the wife of harassing here and declined any further help....WTF people are strange, she was not hassled in any way! Anyway after a mammoth drawn out packing session with approx. 135 boxes filled... we did have a large Victorian two bed flat with a spare room as a workshop, we also where going to move some of out garden and the Koi from the pond, so it was a bit mental, luckily the wife has a big family who where happy to help us with a trip up the week before the move to dig a pond and erect a shed. However before this could all go ahead we had a call from the local solicitor that we had decided to use for convenience, saying that we couldn't proceed because the property had a covenant on it saying the that we had to have resided in Norfolk for a year before we could go ahead.............well there was no way we where going to give in without a fight, so I spent some hours researching this covenant and after a a through dig and a few phone calls to local council and land registry, I discovered that the said covenant was no longer in force, so after doing a far better job of the convaeyanceing that the useless solicitor had done I corrected her, and we still ended up paying her bill, couldn't be bothered fighting that as well, but if it wasn't for my diligents we wouldn't have moved! Needless to say I think we will be staying here for a while. Saga over!

Remove it and clean the track, its a common problem.

Nor would I. ..... but I did have a bit of fun at the lights yesterday, a Skyline GTT next to me, don't think he was expecting to get beat by an old git in a Honda diesel.

Could be a coolant pipe that's leaking under pressure, also a small pin hole in the rad can case these symptoms. The wifes Seat has a tiny pin hole in the rad, and doses exactly the same.

Trace all the earth (-) wires in the engine bay including the battery, remove and clean all the contact surfaces and bolt them back up, should cure the problem,, earth contact corrosion is one of the major causes of electrical problems on most modern cars.

But a sniffer test would reveal hydrocarbons in the coolant if there was indeed a leak under high load, and since the OP says it happens under load it should be apparent on testing.

I would make that and a leak-down test a priority.

Could melted berk hfcs cause an issue?I only say this because issues started happening after a motorway pull and my exhaust apparently glowing red a few months ago. Is it possible for this to make the car run hotter than usual? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk ] The fact that the HFC s melted and glowed would indicate either a partially blocked cat, or that there is a combustion problem, IE burnt valve, running very lean etc, have you run a compression test?

As you have already checked for hydrocarbons in the coolant it kind of rules out the head gasket, which to me would be the logical cause, given that the cooling system is indeed bled correctly, and as I said before since the rad is an uprated item, cooling should be adequate, The fact that the excessive coolant transfer to the header tank indicates that there is a pressurisation problem, but whether its caused by the head gasket or a crack, or air in the system its difficult to know without being able to run tests on the engine.

You have probably dislodged a connector while threading the wires for the install, go back and re check.

Its just hot viscosity, at working temps a w40 oil will remain slightly thicker/more viscus that a w30 oil, therefore will have slightly more resistance to shear and will be slightly better at providing a slightly higher oil pressure, so better for a worn engine. I will add that its only a slight difference, but it helps on a high mileage engine, Nissan and most other manufactures recommend a 5 or 10W30 oil mainly for fuel economy (less oil drag), and the engines are designed around metals that will allow running thinner oils. Oh! and the first figure IE 5 or 10 is the cold viscosity, and can be pretty much ignored in our climate.

Don't flush, it can dislodge deposits and block oil ways and filters, besides it shouldn't be necessary with the amount of detergents present in modern oils, and with that sort of mileage I would run a 10W40 semi or fully synthetic.

Maybe we need an ongoing "moron drivers" thread, so we can all vent after being incensed by other road users stupidity, mind you it could become clogged very quickly.

Don't you mean small mind in a big car I guess the thing that riles me aside form the bad driving is that the dam vehicle is built to go off road, yet they can't hug or even go up the verge slightly to allow you to pass safely, not your the one who gets to go in the verge and fook up your tyres and suspension. And we are talking county roads here no curbs etc. Oh well rant over.

Since I live in Norfolk I am well used to the errr questionable driving standards, like no indication, not liking being overtaken, they move over on you here but all the 4x4 drivers including all the pick ups crew caps etc just think they either own the road or are way bigger than truck. Oh and my other pet hate.....so many tail gaiters, and the worst drivers of all are the younger females, abusive with it!

What is it with the people who drive 4x4s/small vans etc? they all seem to think its 10ft wide and take up the road accordingly, IE make you squeeze to the curb and just miss your mirrors! I think these people should have to pass a test that makes them aware of the actual size of these vehicles, I regularly meet artics on the same roads, and have no problem, but 4x4 drivers just have no idea.

Where they std rings that where fitted? i wold also presume that the valve guides where also replaced? as said if the hone was not done correctly the rings will not bed in and this can cause oil burning, it should show up on a compression test but, leak down will be a better indicator of a good/bad seal.

Where the valve stem seals replaced? other than that have you noticed the oil level dropping? could be that the rings havent bedded in due to driving too miss Daisy.

Impressive! but wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding below 5,000RPM.