Tricky-Ricky

Exactly! the OP did say and i quote "any response appreciated." and then asks "I clearly don't know all the answer else I wouldn't be on here trying to get some support would I? Appreciate some good responses to help me diagnose a problem. Thanks..." And despite several people making educated very valid responses, including myself, he virtually dismisses the,. well to me some of his responses are way less than appreciative,

I like to try and help people.......however!

You seem to have answered your own question, i would be monitoring oil temps, as it seems with the high loads created by drifting, along with perhaps less general cooling due to angles/speeds etc are pushing the oil temps beyond the oil tolerances. Of course you std pressure gauge could be playing up...its a common problem. Oh and nice attitude by the way.

Yes unfortunately that code covers a multitude of problems, and as a result needs to go on a decent diagnostic scanner that will monitor things like air fuel etc, as others have found it doesn't just relate to ignition system only, any garage that just says new plugs or coils without looking into the problem thoroughly is either not up to the job or just trying to make money.

I have used the cheap Chinese ones with no problem, if you want the light to look white then you will need around 550K, although you may get away with 600K, they do seem to look on the blue side despite the K temp.

Provided you fitted the correct plugs, then the only other likelihood is that you have disturbed the coil wiring, or other wiring close by.

Thanks but the OP was talking about std wheels of the exact same size, IE 8"x18" x 30 offset, hence my question. Obviously if there is a size difference fitment would be common sense.

I would be interested just how the front and rear differ, apart from the obvious marks and lug, as if they are both 18"x8" and 30 offset, and weight exactly the same,i really cant see any reason not to interchange them. Oh! and JJ denotes the height and width, and shape of the rim flange that the tyre bead sits on, JJ = 18.0mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 13.0mm radius J = 17.5mm high x 13.0mm wide, with a 9.0mm radius

Despite the very lifelike looking figures.......i am just waiting to see the finished tank, i saw its now in primer, its going to look great once its in colour or cammo.

This! Agreed! i would also be very surprised...if fact flabbergasted if there was no other damage from hitting a curb at that sort of speed, You are very very lucky, and this accident has probably saved your life by alerting you to the potential brake failure problem, i am sure you can imagine a similar scenario .....but with no brakes. I hope your luck holds with getting it fixed cheaply..............and i would be out buying some lottery tickets if i where you.

Yes basically the same car, chassis are 9" longer, all running gear and engine the same, like the Z there are several different trim levels, and like all Japanese imports they can have virtually any combination of extras, so you never know what you will find. You do see the occasional 6 speed manual but they are rare, the manuals always come with Brembos, and LSD, sometimes the autos come with Brembos and diff as an extra, but mostly brakes the same as the import Z, there is a Nismo version but i have only heard of one in this country. As they use the same engine performance wise they are pretty much the same, but they do weigh 100KG more than a Z, they are a great drive, very capable long distance turer, and very comfortable to drive with electric seats etc, personally i think they are a much nicer looking car than the Z, Just to show what they can look like with some careful mods, here is my old 6 speed, oh! and don't let the auto box put you off, they are very good...apparently .

Yes that's true, as i had an ECU data-scan connected full time i could always check there where no other codes present, however i only ever checked maybe once a month.

Drop ZMANALEX here a PM, he may be able to sort one out.

You can run without the cat sensors, they are only used for air fuel adjustment as a back up should the main sensors fail.......if you can put up with the CEL.

Its not the fact of a turbo being close to the bonnet, its the amount and route of the exhaust to turbo pipework that would push up local under bonnet engine temps, another thing to consider with both mid and rear mounted turbos, is the oil return, it can be problematical due to the turbo being lower or same level than the sump.

As you can see the OP wanted to run the turbo in the engine compartment, hence my comments.

How much!!! i have a £35 ebay HD camera that's been running fine for nearly two years now.

Have a good one fella, all the best.

Its just alloy oxidization due to water and air fella, don't know who has told you that its a sign of oil in the plenum but its incorrect, there will always be oil in the plenum itself due to the way the PCV system works.

I think you have missed the point, the reason for the pressure being maintained at "normal" is down to the pressure relief valve venting the excess pressure back to the sump. which was my point.its the PRV job.

Pretty much all modern oils are quite capable of running 120-130c and beyond, most people going FI as in turbo, as this will push running temps up far more than SC, will fit an oil cooler anyway, the whole idea of having differing viscountcies is to provide the correct flow characteristics given the spec of the engine design.Not to mention oil pressure driven components like VVTI etc. A W30 oil should be able to maintain its viscosity and therefore pressure, to its maximum recommended running temp, without the need to use a higher viscosity just to keep the pressure, which is why i was advocating not using too high a viscosity just to increase oil pressure, with the resulting downside of pump and PRV stress i have seen oil pressure vary quite a bit when going from a W30 to W50, don't forget while at its highest temps it may well thin and produce minimal pressure difference, but at normal road driving even with a turbo it WILL make a difference. The fundamental point to remember is that viscosity WILL affect pressure.

It would definitely be down to oil level...or lack of it.

I always tend to not go too thick with oil, although some people do use bigger clearances (usually track or race motors), you also have to remember that things like oil pumps and there pressure relief valves have been designed and built to run the manufactures recommended oil grade, Therefore you can run into problems as vastly thicker oil will not only apply more strain to oil pump gears, it can also mean that the PRV is always open, which is not a good thing, there is also the increased drag from pushing higher pressures due to oil thickness. For me one or perhaps two grades above std on a highly stressed motor (IE turbocharged) is the limit.

Thanks fellas, will have a look into these products.

Pretty much all modern oils are up to the job, i would use a fully or semi synthetic 10W40.