Tricky-Ricky

True but you can get an assortment of lens for the mirror-less cameras from what i have seen,  i just cant seem to get the pics sharp enough for my taste, i mainly use manual settings but often use AF, and i think its all down to the older tech and its focus points, trouble is when shooting animals you don't often have the time to mess about.

Mostly landscape and animals/birds etc, personally i don't really want to resort to phone, most are too dam big anyway, hence the question.

I know that there are a few hobby photographers here, so i though i would ask who is using  a compact mirror-less and what do you think about it, reason i'm asking is because i am not always happy with the pictures i take and get fed up with constant tweaking and having to carry lenses around with my current DSLR kit.

So i am seriously thinking of just selling up and get a compact that i can use point and shoot, but also tweak occasionally instead of all the time, as i just don't have the required patience these days,, so what have you got, and whats its like?

Could be a faulty yaw sensor playing up and causing the slip control to go a bit mental.

10 hours ago, Kieran O'Quick said:

Does the tube on the intake side have to be on the intake or can it just breathe from anywhere? Can't get my head round it. Trying to run the big fat tube to the air filter is causing problems. 

I would advise having a vacuum source on the full throttle/high load side simply because it aids ring seal at high load, but its not going to do any harm if you vent to atmosphere, preferably by way of a catch can, but some use just a filter, however, I would advise caution doing this as you may fall foul of the new MOT laws that state any oil leaks/weeps will be an instant failure.

Actually it is beneficial to keep a vacuum from  the  intake whether N/A or bosted, as it helps ring seal and helps prevent oil seal weep, the PVC system is no solely an emissions tool as most seem to believe, some engine types do  produce some small amount of positive pressure due to the receptive movement, so expelling this and creating a small amount of vacuum on those that don't is a good thing.

Eliminating the oil mist with a baffeled can is good but keeping the lot attached to a vacumsource is also good, nothing wrong with eliminating the low side of the PCV especially when going boosted, allthough not nessacery, but at least keep one side subject to vacume.

7 hours ago, StevoD said:

Isn't the passenger side the side that goes to the intake pipe?

3 hours ago, davey_83 said:

Other way round, drivers side cam cover goes to the plenum - passenger side goes to the intake post maf.

My apologies fellas, not thinking straight, was thinking LHD which i was driving a couple of weeks ago, i will go back and amend my previous post so as not to confuse further.

14 minutes ago, nissanman312 said:

What about when boosted dose this differ ?

No, as the one-way valve will prevent any positive pressure going back into the crankcase, but it may be prudent to replace said valve just in case it's a bit weak, and obviously, the high load side breather needs blocking or relocating for the same reason otherwise you would be pressurising the crankcase.

7 hours ago, StevoD said:

Isn't the passenger side the side that goes to the intake pipe?

Yes it is, my mistake, i will go back and edit my previous post.

The PCV system on the Z like many cars is in two stages, the first idle and low load consists of a hose from the drivers side cam cover to the plenum with a non-return valve, and since the VQ motor breathes quite a lot of oil vapor at idle and low load due to high intake vacuum, which results in oil pooling in the lower part of the plenum, this is the one to add a catch can to, but it must be a sealed unit  otherwise any air leaks will cause un metered air to be drawn into the engine and weaken the mixture, 

The second part is on the passenger side cam cover, which is the high load side and is not subject to high vacuum, and a hose runs from the cam cover to a point on the  plastic intake which is often removed when a pop-charger or different intake pipe is fitted, this is only under suction when there is enough velocity in the intake to put t under vacuum, so the pipe can just be reconnected to keep a mild vacuum on the crankcase if you want to utilise this, or run to an open catch can or even just air a filter to avoid minimal oil mist.

Edited to correct my **** up.

Why oh why do people do this...delete all content and not provide what the solution to the problem was! make forum searches a joke, and even worse he is a forum events organiser!

34 wheel BHP from intakes only....even if it is USBHP.....

Could well just be down to it's making a bit more oil mist due to wear and because these engines create a lot of oil mist anyway with the std breather setup, the oil pools in the lower runners of the plenum and on the first start and subsequent blip of the throttle the oil gets drawn into the cylinders and burnt.

A cure for this is to fit a sealed catch can to the idle/low load side of the PCV system, this will help eliminate the oil pooling by the oil mist settling out in the catch can instead of the plenum.

Of course, if it is the valve stem seals this won't help, but its far easier than renewing the valve seals.

If only people would update these threads, it would make searching worthwhile! But anyway I would also suggest checking the clutch release bearing, could be dry or failing, these can give very odd effects at high rpm/load.

The old adage lead a horse to water and blinkers comes to mind.

If one lambda sensor has failed the ECUs response would be to run that bank rich by default, which would explain the sooty plugs on one bank, and could explain the hot compression as it could also cause slight bore wash thus reducing compressing on that side, however i am not sure that could also account for the smoke, a failed PCV one way valve would also usually result in the idle being high due to extra unmetered air, but it would also cause a weak mixture for the same reason.

I think if you had taken the hands-on approach rather than reading the hype on various products, you may have saved yourself some money.

If you had bought yourself a cheap digital electronic Temperature gauge and installed it at various parts of the intake, you would have been able to prove to yourself just what difference adding all that insulation made.

I have done this on several different cars so I have experience in what works and what doesn't, so sorry to preach but sometimes you see people spend money on mods that are often a waste of time, but as they say, you have to break a few eggs to make an omelette.

If you are really hung up on intake temps, why don't you just add a water injection system, this will both cool the intake and charge cool at the same time.

I think your getting way too hung up over 5-10BHP which in reality you will likely never really notice, if wrapping your intake makes you feel better great! but heat soak cant really be avoided, just reduced.

There will be a maximum and an average under bonnet temp that is pretty much unavoidable, during normal running, but temps will climb under both high load and low speed or stop,

The air speed in your intake will be pretty cool due to the boundary layer effect and the position of you intake, which should have access to outside air, under normal running IE at speed,

The boundary layer effect means that despite the intake pipe temps on the outside, the inside airflow will always be cooler due to the layer of virtually static air that acts like an inner insulation  between the moving air and and pipe walls no matter what the material, so as long as the airflow speed within the pipe is high enough, the moving air will pick up very little  heat.

So as said before once you're in low moving traffic or stationary this is when the boundary layer effect is overcome and the airflow inside the pipes start to heat up due to the breakdown of the boundary layer, more noticeable on FI cars  because of the hot air producing less boost due to hot air being less dense.

So was there a problem and how was it fixed or did you just fit a new battery? it helps others if you can give us fix for the problem then others searching for the same kind of problem know what to try.

I have allways tried to have the clutch and brake pedals level if posible, but this cant allwaysbe done on all cars, some clutch pedals have a hight adjusting bolt some dont, and some use the brake light switch to achive it like the Z, but the  actual clutch engaugement  point is only adjustted by the clutch master cylinder to pedal adjustment bolt/nuts, and over doing the adjujstment, either way, will result in a flaky feeling pedale because of the clutch pedlehelper spriing, this can cause the pedle to feel like its sticking, however this can also be atrubuted to a bad master cylinder an is dificult to diagnose unless you have exsperience.

Further to this the Z clutch is quite heavy, and will feel even heavier as the clutch plate friction material wears, and some come to grief by simply adjusting the pedal hight in the mistaken belief that it will make the clutch feel lighter, the main reason for the Z clutch being heavy is down to Nisan not getting the fulcrum position correct, this can be corrected if you know how, I did a write up on it some time ago, but would have to search for it.

Have you tried a known good fully charged battery on it? sounds like it time to let a specialist look at it.

Its easy to test an alternator, first check the engine off voltage with a multimeter, the voltage should be around 12,00 to 12,8v if the battery is good if any lower then it's getting near replacement, then with the engine running the voltage should read 13.8 to 14, 8 depending on electrical load, anything lower or higher and you looking at a new alternator.

Sounds ECU related, although I would check that the power distribution unit has not gotten wet from a leak in the scuttle, which is a known problem with some Zs.

Never heard of that one, are you sure you're smelling the clutch friction material? as it sounds to me like there is a problem with reverse gear in the box.

Interestingly no feedback from the OP, that video just sums up the general consensus, vibration, I certainly have never noticed any change in "getting the power down" from fitting one, and fail to see just how this could happen, other than bolting the motor to the chassis directly, and then it would be tenths of a second and totally unnoticeable, mind you it is a US review.