Dblock

They are nice but would you really want to spend 1-1.5k?

I thought diff oil was different to usual gearbox oil?

I have dc manifolds, japspeed y pipe, japspeed k2, hi flo cats and there isnt really any droan on motorway.

+1 there isnt enough power or headroom and you run into clip way before you should. If you find it ok Dave just keep it, but yes its poo

Are you amping them or running them off the headunit.

Do the resonated decats still rasp? I like the rasp, all real cars with power rasp.

Not sure what it takes. The 350z is 5-30 but the 370z could be different

If you aren't going to do a bumper tuck get the exhaust that sounds best in your price range and get the tips done in titanium. I think Jay got that done on here

Fuchs millers or gulf is pretty good. I have heard magnetec is rubbish but I've never used it.

Mwtech a member on here deals with touge.

Why not get decats?

If you going to fit cams your need to do a few other things; the stock car cant be reved above 7200rpm as the stock valve spring retainers are made of plastic ( only joking) alloy so they seem to pull over the valve collets if you try to rev the motor harder. Also fitting cams lowers the dynamic compression ratio so I feel you need to raise the stock compression to make the cams work properly. We just finshed a N/A DE build , Cosworth heads/HKS cams , Abbey forged rods and pistons , Rev up oil pump , HKS headers , Berks race cats , Cosworth plenum, a lot of the stuff was already fitted before the car came to us with a Piggy back ecu fitted to tune the car for the Cosworth heads/HKS cams etc etc, we 1st remove the piggy back and tuned the car with the Uprev system , then we rebuilt the motor with the forged rods and pistons oil pump etc. The car prodiced around 310 bgp at the flywheel with the bottom end and 245lb/ft of torque after rebuilding the motor we managed to get 340bhp flywheel and 265 lb/ft of torque still running race cats , then next step is to remove the cats and see if the car gains any BHP/TORQUE. The car drives so nice but I am still undecided if N/A or S/C is the way to go on a fast road car. Thats sweet, personally I think it depends the way you drive. Some people love the kick in the back of the boost and some people love stirring the gears on the twisties. I personnaly love the way an n/a drives. I could have got something alot faster than the z for the price but for I dont want all out power and love the n/a power delivery. I still think your idea of ITB's in an airbox is an ace idea. If it was do able for a decent amount of money I think it would be worth it.

Some people I know have used coatec and have been happy and some haven't if that's the place Alex is on about in carsnooty. There is a place in Perth and another in Carnoustie who are both professional refurb establishments. I have used both but now mainly use the Perth guys as they are only 5 minutes from me.[/qu

Go for it! Thats the coolest thing ever, I doubt it will cause you any trouble and imagine you could be sitting in your house start your car which stays locked until you get near it then when its been on for 5mins you get in its warm it auto unlocks the doors for you.

Really though? lets say he is running 245's all round. If he puts 285s on the back the front doesnt have more or less grip the rear just has more.

A zed with winter tyres will be better than a shed with summers on

Try CS he can get them

Remoulds are different to part worns though.

Does everything go through EP racing? as Rik does a do luck kit which is priced resonabily. Busters fit looks spot on but Im not sure about the do luck. Otherwise EP racing it is for a v1 or a v2 but I wanted something different for a resonable price.

Glad your ok, hope you get it fixed easily and cheaply.

Im not sure on 07 plates but generally its in the middle leaning to soft IMO. no way like the 350 but no way like my bro's boxster.

+1. Also not all bmw drivers are bad just most people who driver crap cars are fools. Like Im driving my 350z at 70mph and some idiot overtakes me in a volvo or a saab then slows down in front of me. Its like look I overtook you. So annoying its like I overtook a sensible driver who was doing 70mph but my car must be faster than his sports car as if you have a sports car you have to bouncing off the limiter in 5th! Also anyone who has driven a bmw on the motorway knows why they all speed. No joke 70mph feels like 40mph. Lovely cars e39 m5 slammed, onyx black and black tints I'd be flossing!

Love it, Im in 2 minds now if Riks stuff is decent I might get a do luck bodykit.

Most likely the yellow RCA type cable most screens accept. Your slightly wrong about dvi being digital Chris ( a bit anal yes but important to this subject.) dvi D is digital and can be used as a dvi d cable to hdmi. Hdmi is dvi d (digital) but it also carries sound and can conform to hdcp. Dvi d is usually pins then a cross. Any dvi d card can usually output as dvi a(analog). Pins then a line. You can a much better chance of something taking an analogue signal in car. Dvi a will connect to a d sub device aswell. So you could have dvi a to yellow or dvi a to d sub to yellow.

I'm not sure but if it's a DVi d then can you not put out a dvi a signal and that to a 3.5 av. Will the resolution not be rubbish?