Dblock

I know the uk freq is 433.92mhz does anyone know what the jdm one is?

I pretty sure the diff on the 350z technically is open and is vicous so works differently to a 1.5 way diff.

My key does look like the one on the left but with 2 buttons on the otherside.

Unless I'm being blind or stupid I can't? Does anyone know what frequency the jdm keys work on?

I think it's £15.

check here aswell clicky

No chance of making a fibreglass one?

the couple of asdas round me have them aswell, who ever screwed that up must be getting their p45.

No it was because its not as long lasting and they have taken out alot of detergents and some of the bits to keep it better longer apparantly. How was asda not ment to stock it though they must have bought thousands upon thousands of bottles of the stuff.

i think the problem is that you need to get someone to make the plastic, then the buttons and then someway for it to flip and so on.

Alot of people have gone of Mobil1 as it changed for the worse. Its no longer bmw and porcshe aproved maybe why its going cheap?

+1 the nak cd400 and cd500 where and still are amazing. Only the real hardcore go for them as there is no mp3 but as far as sound quality goes the naks are amazing. If you run a nak you probably hate mp3 anyway. There is now alot of fakes and nak got taken over a while Bach abd it lost all it's quality.

Would an oil cooler or bigger sump not help?

Love it!

Pee around the car yourself it cheaper than "pellets" and buy a harpoon or pointy stick? Only joking

For me anyway it was close to £80 per day! Could be cheaper for you

if you run 10's all round imo run smaller tyres up front for that nice streched look

Agree with Stew the slk55 is the bomb. This one somehow looks like a vauxhall.

I think Ikarus has done something like that, he also runs jl stuff. Is that close to the west midlands as Im sure Husky could sort you out on the cheap but (not doubting Husky's skills) for a proper install a pro is the best person to go to but you will pay double even triple the quote you got for labour orginally.

No problem mate thats what this forum is for Well you dont have to rewire them but IMO you would be better to do it as sending 10x more power down the same wire which probably isnt great anyway wont be a great idea. But saying that you dont have to do this straight away. You will be better on getting mdf rings as the speakers sit and a funny angle and bolt in 3 places rather than 2 or 4. There is no sub box behind the seat. If not even sealed. So you would need to get a small box made so maybe a 8"sub would be better. unless you got a special sub to run IB. Just to use dynamat its goor practise to degrease the area where you plan on sticking it then you peel of the paper and stick it on. You can heat it if you want it to be softer to get into more complex places. You dont need to do that with the mdf ring but its advisable as you dont want your door rattling and stealing you bass although again you can run a baffle and if you want it to be better sound deaden it later although its eaiser to do at the same time. Where are you based as you would be better going to a trusted installer or using someone from the site.

I would imagine nissan and bc both put in understeer so that people arent like OMG i went round a roundabout at 70 and the back end came out. Is there a certain price range you are after? Im sure driftworks have some good coil overs and if not they might want to make some and you could maybe be the ginea pig.

Im pretty sure it was pretty good, If I was going to order a body kit I would probably get it from EPR

Thanks Dave IMO I wouldnt get rear speakers but this is up to you. IMO I would ditch the 6 channel amp for a 2 and a mono amp. If you want to keep the rears get a 4 channel amp and a mono for the sub. This would make it better IMO and have a better and more powerful amp for the sub and have more control and flexibilty for the comps. If you want some great wiring at decent prices check knukonceptz.co.uk JL stuff is good but IMO its the sound you are after, with all the better brands they sound different e.g. infinity perfects are super clear and bright, rainbows with silk domed tweeters are smooth and so on. Also dont order from CAC there has been alot of horror stories and so on. Best bet IMO would be to check out car audio direct. If your placing a decent order you can email them and they might give you 5% off. Also have a much better rep. As for the sound proofing you can using dynamat but you can get some foilbacked stuff from loudboy on talkaudio or get second skin or damplifier IMO they are better. Make sure you get foiled backed if its going in your doors. Talk audio is a great place to buy 2ndhand audio but if you want to buy new then CAD seems a better option. Also If I was you I would get MDF rings made for the front speakers. If you are going to sound deaden the door it would be pointless to not have a MDF baffle which mounts the speaker on a thick piece of wood rather than on metal where it will vibrate. If I was you I would get something like some dececnt speakers for the front (comps, woofer and tweeter) for about £150-£200. Make sure they are 6.5". Baffles will be about £20 Wiring will be about £60-£100 If you are only having front speaker get a decent amp, orion, jl, rainbow and so on front only get a 2 channel with about 2x 150RMS so 300wrms for both channels. If you are going 4 channel get about 90wrms per channel. As for the sub JL's are always a good choice. there are others which are great too. The most important thing with a sub is box size. If you are getting a box it will most likely be sealed as ported needs alot more space. Find out how much cuft volume it needs in the box and pick or get a box built for that size. A proper built box with a crap sub and a rubbish amp will sound better than a good amp connected to a good sub with a poorly built/wrong sized box. An amp for the sub should be matched roughly for the sub e.g. my sub 10" is 1000wrms and my amp is 1200rms. This gives me some headroom when setting the gain and also gives the amp more damping on the sub IMO. but if your sub is say 200wrms then a mono or 1 channel amp that is 200wrms or even 180wrms will be fine aslong as you are careful with the gains. That should help you a little

Roads in hot countries are so much better and smoother than ours. The rubber really sticks to it.

I have a p3 coming up so figured id get the bits to take with me Iridiums just last longer than platinums no other real difference. In your rx7 you might have gone a step colder or something to gain power.