Mark@Abbey m/s

Bonnet is scrap.

Abbey have a 2007 350Z that we brought for the Engine/Gearbox/Wiring loom and ECU from to convert my DE car to HR power; Car is Nissan Orange. Heavy hit passenger side front (suspension damage air bags fired) Bonnet and passengers side headlamp are scrap I want to dispose of the rest of the car now; Quick list of parts off the top of my head are as follows; 4 x Brembo caliper/,discs/pads and brake lines (discs not in good condition thou) £350-00 + postage Front leather sets in good condition £500-00 (need to be collected) 2007 front door panels including all clips/switches £150-00 ( really need collecting) O/S front xenon light and pair rear LED lights £600-00 + postage a lot of other trims parts in good condition drivers door mint £100-00 tailgate inc spoiler £150-00 Any questions ask away. PLEASE ASK QUESTIONS ON THIS THREAD NOT BY PM SO I DON'T HAVE TO REPLY TO THE SAME QUESTIONS ALL THE TIME.

So have you recorded the AFM voltage change and checked the fueling/ignition out after changing this pipe; I think you need to be very carefully playing with the pipework around the AFM sensor as this controls the fueling timing. Looking at the pipe size I feel it is smaller I.D so the AFM will be showing more voltage due to a smaller diameter pipe making the air flow greater so running the car richer and running less Ignition timing.

The Vortech wont run 20 psi I have tried it.......... I feel 1bar is perfect for these blowers make good safe power on a stock motor.

Not a lover of this way, IAT climbing shows the charger is working out of its efficiency band. Running lower boost doesn't cause the same clump in IAT's

but that will only at a higher rpm as I need to tune the motor back mid range to stop detonation. Looking at the data-logs from your car and Bennett's you both struggle to keep IAT (air inlet temps) at a sensible level. Bennett's car was going from 20 degree C at the start of the run up to over 55 deg C at the end of a 12 sec run , this was clipping the Ignition timing back and adding fuel for safety. I feel running any more boost on your car will be the same , we also run out of injector/AFM voltage on Bennett's car

We struggled with Bennett's car trying to run as much boost as he wanted to run; Octet I feel your car is spot on as it is , running more boost will make us have to retard the ignition timing more so I feel this will lose the gain from running anymore boost.

Yes your lose a little low end torque under 2000rpm but with carefully tuning the car will make awesome mid range and top end figures. Will get some dyno plots posted up tomorrow.

They do this on the UPREV AFM plate as the AFM can be fitted upside down and will give a strange and in correct reading. Also without the stop inserts the AFM retaining bolts can be over tightened and the AFM can be broken easily.

To clarify Colin running more toe in will dull the turn in of a car not make it sharper I am afraid.

Cant see the wall thickness I am afraid Wasso so cant say. But if the pipe thickness is different it will mean all the car that are going to fit will require checking of the calibration; Re temps and moving the AFM I disagree , I will dig a datalog out from a S/C on the dyno today and get it posted up on here. for clarity on IAT,s with F/I.

I presume to keep the heat away from the AFM. that will only help the IAT's when your sat in traffic , the IAT climb very quickly on these cars when they are F/I as the AFM is blown through. TBH moving the AFM wont make a lot of difference to AFM voltages I feel.

O.D the same or I.D the same/ Pipe wall thickness will make a difference? Basically changing the cross section area changes the calibration of the AFM voltage.

nope , what size is the pipe that Wasso is making? that's whats matters if it is smaller I.D it will cause the AFM to go out of voltage at a lower load (boost) reading.

That's the old Uprev PMAF , PITA to tune , I wont tune with it I am afraid. We can just remake the pipework for the Air flow meter to sit in to make the pipe larger so lowering the AFM voltage.

I thought he was running a GT MAF? He is, we are seeing up around 4.9volts when datalogging on the dyno this week. Remember AFM voltage is offset by the diameter of the tube the AFM is situated in, smaller pipe the AFM voltage goes up larger pipe the AFM voltage goes down. Pete the AFM voltage is the output from the air flow meter that tells the ECU how much air the engine is consuming.

No 360lb/ft torque is safe but we can run some more top end bhp but remember I think we not far from the AFM voltage limit.

Its not BHP that hurts these motors it Torque , SC doesn't give the high cylinder pressures like a turbo charging produces. I like to tune to around 360lb/ft seems to be a nice safe torque figure, remember you cant just turn the boost down on a SC , you have to tweak the cam/cams to adjust the boost and provide cooling for the cylinder/s at high rpm/boost pressures. We are gradually leaning on these motors more and more and fingers crossed so far they are staying together. Seems Abbey Motorsport doesn't do a bad job......

Adrian is a good chap , says what he feels , honest chap.

Gives good smooth power , gained some power from last time on the dyno due to me be happy as the belt isn't slipping now so leaned the motor off a little. Over 10 SC DE powered 350Z cars now tuned @ Abbey Motorsport on the Dynapack dyno with good results all on the stock remapped ECU with the Uprev software. Don't like to spam a customers thread but Adrian is a pleasure to work with. Nice safe well tuned car , have fun in Wales guys.

Is this the car I was emailed about today? Chap called Shane? If it is the same car the email didn't say anything about a broken conrodjust mentioned excessive engine noise. Maybe this car had been run on unleaded 95 octane fuel for a long period. If you want to get anywhere with Nissan your have to have the motor stripped by Nissan which your have to push Nissan to do and you may have to pay for this yourself then take the matter up with Nissan. Thanks

If your going in the front cover change everything. will help with selling that it has all been changed; I can supply the parts if needed , will take a week or so to arrive but far better price than Nissan UK prices.

Sly, I thought it was £1000-00 for the whole job.

Sorry but your never do the job in the Nissan time's Sly, it takes around 1/1.5 hours to clean the mating surfaces off after stripping the front cover and other items off. I think it is a day work at least , we done a few over the last few years it isnt a nice job TBH. If I was going to do the job I would change all the chains/guides and tensioners to make sure everything was good.

Won't fit RHD cars I am afraid. Want a set for our race car once we build the big rpm motor.