Mark@Abbey m/s

run without the stock strut brace.

dyno plot of DE (green plot) with Plenum spacer/drop in filter/stock cats and cat back exhaust and tuned with UPREV and our HR cat back exhaust/stock cats /drop in filters and UPREV tune DE is pretty close in midrange torque but once your up in the revs the HR romps away. below is a dyno plot of a DE with headers (not long tube) and HKS step 1 cams and it isn't far away from the HR just is held back RPM wise. I think a DE is a very good track car a lot cheaper to buy than a HR car as well. Reason our car has a HR was the DE was using oil and we needed to do some development ECU wise on the HR motors.

Fitting spacers upsets the steering geometry. Basically adding a spacer reduces the ET offset on the wheel so moving the Scrub radius (this is moving the pivot point for the wheel fro where it has be designed to work with KPI (King Pin inclination) Below is a good little diagram to help you understand what I am talking about ( this is a generic drawing) Trying to understand how the rear spacer will make the car feel and drive better thou.

would need to spend sometime to sort out spring rates and damper specs. Alignment numbers I can sort easily over the next few days. The Red car runs 10 x 18 all round with 265/35 x 18 Weslake tyre (drift tyre) works very well, looking at going over to a 285 Tyre all round thou Steves car runs 9 x 18 Frt and 10 x 18 Rear wheel with 265/35 x 18 frt and 285/30 rear 888 Toyo at the moment. Will be going over to 10 x 18 all round soon with a 285 or 295 Tyre all round. We have found the Zed like a square set up wheel/tyre wise as they do under steer a little when a smaller tyre is used on the front

Early model 350Z fitted with HR motor,HKS super sound master exhaust still running stock cats and Uprev remap, Full cage still fitted with full interior trim, Proper seats and 5 point harnesses, extinguisher, AST dampers, numerous uprated suspension arms , Stoptech 355mm dia 4 port calipers all round, Abbey Motorsport engine oil cooler and rear diff oil cooler, OS Giken LSD. Seibon + front wings. New damper set up def twin adjustable Rear sub-frame out to change sub-frame mounts (as they are leaking) will change diff mounts and re-bush all the rear suspension at the same time. Maybe new tyres gong up from 265 to a 285 all round. New ECU we hope something with proper traction control Syvecs S8.

Ask away both car are pretty simple in design and set up nothing special.

Stan, either give me a ring tomorrow 01883 732331 ext 2 or email mark@abbeymotorsport.co.uk. we can sort you a quote out no problem

We had our 1st Outing out in our 350Z track car last week @ Bedford with Javelin Track days. Very lucky with the weather as the next day was a horrible day. Car worked real well looks like we have found the limit on the AST single adjustable dampers, car needs to run some harder springs which the dampers wont control. So I will have some AST single adjustable dampers for sale soon (no rear springs thou) as we run SPL rear lower arms to allow us to run 2 1/4 ID springs so we can get a better supply of rear springs easier. A few Pictures from during the day , my wife drives the car for the majority of the time thou ;-(

Is our track car "HARDCORE" enough Looks like it is time to upgrade our damper set up definitely need to move over to at least double adjustable but maybe will go the same way as Team Lizards car with triple adjustable.

-3.5 is not enough front camber? You may have Toyo as a tyre sponsor or running slicks������! I just reduced mine to -3deg as I didn't like going through a set of front R888 in a couple of k miles! I'm I've also reduced my caster to +9deg from 10 but kept toe out to 0deg 04min. Doesn't seem to have changed the superb turn in and front grip I had before but have to try it on track to see. I'm so gutted I missed you at the RSV breakfast meet and wanted to glean some ideas of you������. Your car isn't as stiff as Mr Lizards car and the Pirelli has a very soft sidewall against the 888 we have run before. Going over to the Pirelli will need a completely different set up I feel. Like starting again. driving on the road isn't a way to tell if the car feels good either. And they are mostly my idea's........

Had an email from HKS Europe today with a product release that is pretty good for the DE guys. GTS8555 SC unit kit to fit on DE motor , good for 500+ bhp with internal mods , the old GTS7040 was flat @ making around 360/380 flywheel bhp. As normal awesome HKS parts finish and fitment will be spot on. Costs is £4000 + vat (£4800-00 inc vat) which is competitive with the Vortech kit and we can work on fitting costs with you guys. You will require other mods to allow this to be fitted and tuned

Sounds like he didn't then, you would of noticed if he had. We will be in touch tomorrow about picking the Zed up soon.

Did Andy update your Engine EcuTek software to Version 5?

I have a few sets of stock GTR wheels. Return it to totally stock and see the car rise in value.

the Frozen Boost matrix is too dense slows the air up so the engine radiator doesnt get the required air.

have you got the Stillen stock charger cooler radiator? Sorry Mark, confused by your comment. As far as I know the frozen boost cooler went in instead of the stillen one. Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk Did you not get the stock Stillen rad when you brought the car?

The fans work together GT4 Zed.

have you got the Stillen stock charger cooler radiator?

presume the oil cooler rad is in between the Charge cooler radiator and the engine coolant radiator. Is the car running the ICE charge cooler radiator? I have been told this Rad causes the air flow to be restricted to the engine radiator. I would run the stock Stillen charge cooler rad and have the IAT's a little highers but the coolant temp will be lower.

MM rad fans aren't in the same league as the stock fans IMHO. They aren't multi speed , the fan housing does not flow the air through like a stock rad housing. Cars runnign MM on my Dyno always run hotter than a car with stock fan assembly. The Stillen kit is a little tight around the intake pipe and pushing the fans back further as the new rad is wider will cause the problems George is seeing , you can move the rad forward as the air con rad is already in that position. I do know you can have a rad made that is the same width as a stock rad with a bigger core fitted so this will fit no problem and please stay with a stock fan assembly.

I would remap 100% as the car would of been leaned off when tuning 1st time with the stock cats fitted. Removing the cats will lean the motor out even more. Will only take a couple of hours on the dyno to tweak the fuelling/ignition and tweaking the cams to get the best from fitting the de-cats

I would be fitting a new pump on a build anyway not worth taking any risks.

You must of spoken to Scott @Abbey. High oil temps is normally a sign of bearings failing as the extra friction causes the oil to work harder so causing higher oil temps. We haven't seen any oil pump's fail on the VQ like the RB or WRX pumps fail.

PMX are you any good with a windows based laptop? I have some good base tunes that we can E tune your car for you without bringing it to Abbey. We provide a Loaner ECUTEK cable and you send us Data logs I tune the car via studying the data logs and tweaking the maps It isnt as good as me tuning on my in house dyno but I can get a pretty sorted cal that way.

Thanks for the kind words the Ecutek is a definite upgrade, the control and the ability to build maps with RaceRom feature is just awesome. The re-shaping of the throttle maps make a huge difference to throttle response as well. We have tweaked the traction control and when you turn the factory ESP off it turns the EcuTek traction on with the maximum control that can be adjusted with the cruise control toggle. Have fun trying the traction out.