Neilp

On this occasion the power isn't what causes it to take ages to go through 2nd gear- it's the gear ratio. If you want it to go through the gears quicker, the best mod you can do is go for a shorter final drive

Commander, just noticed that you're using the M3 as a track car and not the zed. I'm not sure this will fit the M3 as the sandwich plate is specific to the 350z, as far as I'm aware.

I'm sure its 1/2" BSP from memory

Not too sure of the pipe sizes, it comes with more than enough to fit to the zed though. Its a 13 row cooler. I believe that they are pretty much standard in terms of dimension- if need be I can try to get you measurements?

Locked as item sold. Please submit new thread for other items.

Sold - thread locked

Couple of enquiries but still available

The haltech ECU is a platinum pro unit in the 350z. I also run the nitrous in the 350z- the kit is a nitrous express kit. The system is mapped in but having issues picking up the engine speed for it to cut in and out when required. The Haltech and Nitrous were both originally set up by Advanced Motorsport Engineering in Silverstone.

Oh, and if you do it right, you will make a fortune up here in Scotland with this! What are your rough costs for dyno time and uprev license?

Welcome mate, posted on the other thread. Have you got much experience with Haltech ECU's and Nitrous? I have a couple of issues I could do with getting sorted this summer.

Welcome Dynotune, great to see somebody being able to offer uprev up here. I have both an uprev on the standard ECU but now run a haltech piggyback ECU. Have you got much experience tuning in Nitrous? I have a couple of issues that I need to get sorted. I'll post again on your trader thread, welcome to the club mate.

Looking at your photos, you have IS turned off btw, just keep an eye on that and make sure you have it on the correct setting for the photo you are taking

lol you will get sucked in. Whats the details of that tamron lens, looks like a decent bit of kit? Yep aperture is the size of the hole the light goes in. If your taking photos which require the background to stay in focus you will, as a rule of thumb, use a higher f number. However the larger the aperture the more likely you are to get lens flare (which you can see in the photo of my mate). This is my favourite lens without going into the L series canon professional lenses http://www.amazon.co.uk/Canon-EF-Zoom-lens-3-5-5-6/dp/B00006I53S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1430164282&sr=1-1&keywords=canon+28-135mm+is+usm+lens I pretty much dumped all my other lenses for this one and my 50mm F1.8 The 18-55mm lens you are using is a good all rounder and has image stabilisation which is a must on a camera with a cropped, slow sensor. It will be suitable for most photos. If you are wanting to go down the route of getting shallow depth of field then you will need to always use your 18-55mm lens @18mm as this is where the aperture is the largest. It will be hard to achieve though. Keep an eye on gumtree for lenses as bargains do come up from time to time. The 28-135mm IS lens is a great lens and you can pick them up at a decent price. The 24-105L lens is much more expensive and there isn't that much difference between them, especially when being used on a cropped sensor (aps-c cmos)

If you want to see some cool photos check this guy out on Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/johnsonbarros

Grundy, do you have dropbox? Do me a favour, drop some RAW images into a folder and send me the link for me to have a play with them.

Yep, yongnuo flash with diffuser will do the trick. I use a carbon fibre Manfrotto tripod and I have a small travel one but it struggles to hold the camera with the larger lenses attached.

This one was taken at f8.0, 35mm, 100ISO and 25s shutter. If you are using a tripod you want to turn of image stabilisation as it can cause the lens to seek and waste your photo.

I took this on my 18-55mm IS ii kit lens. This was taken at 18mm @ f3.5. If you look to the front of the car you will see the focus drops off. Its very hard to get this with the kit lens unless you are really close to the subject and the background is far away.

Just out of interest, do you understand how aperture works?

Always shoot in full manual, which means you can control your aperture size and shutter speed. When you have the lens at full zoom it will always be at f5.6 for this one. You can buy lenses with fixed aperture throughout the zoom but these are costly. Search 70-200mm IS L (my dream lens) What camera are you using also mate?

I'm currently using a Canon EFS 18-55mm 0.25m/0.8ft (it's what came when I bought it (2nd hand) ) Going to be very hard to create a shallow depth of field with that kit lens unfortunately. Have a look for the 50mm F1.8 it can be picked up very easily. Also, what 18-55mm lens is it- theres various types, does it have the IS on it? My favourite lens which was a reasonable price was my 28-135 USM IS lens.

This was taken at F3.5 on the 50mm F1.8 lens (one of my first ever photos that I took )

This was taken at F1.8 on a cheap canon 50mm lens. It wasn't a posed photo, just snapped my mate quickly while we were out on a shoot.

To blur out background you want to use a lens which gives a good shallow depth of field. Usually you would use something with a very large aperture i.e. f2.8, f1.8, f1.4. What camera/lenses are you using? On Canon you can use the manual focus points to help create the shallow depth or to move the focus of the camera.